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Which Track To Choose?
Bob has a question for readers about track choice:
I already have the shelf idea in mind but in HO. I’m 60 years old and already have it tough enough working on HO Scale. I put together a HO Scale Model caboose and what a job that was. I have plans of constructing 2 Helix or Heli because of limited space and multi-level shelf. One at each end of the set. I do have one question. What would be the best track to construct a HO Scale train set? I bought 2 Bachmann Starter train sets because I liked the looks of the old style steam locomotives. The E-Z Trrack is nice to put together, but it doesn’t seem to be the best if there needs to be any kind of correction or adjustment, that it is easy to work with that pre-assembled track. Also, I see that Bachman is not as high a quality as BLI or a few other companies. But the pricing is a lot less.
This is not my first train set. It’s my first as an adult. I used to work on a train set with my father over 40 years ago. I’m sort of house bound now, so I need something to keep me busy. So, please get back to me on what you think would be the best track to work with. I know I have to get the cork bedding and tacks to attach the track to the board and so on. Just track brand would be helpful.
6 Responses to Which Track To Choose?
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Nothing wrong with Atlas, huge selection. I would go with Code 83 for visible sections, code 100 for the helix. Learn how to cut and solder the flextrak for custom sections or curves, and you’re a huge step ahead of any of the prefab tracks. If you’re into ultimate scale realism, maybe go upscale to Shinohara (sp?).
Personally I would use Peco or Atlas both of which will match up to each other.
If you have full or half curves as apposed to bends, use set track as the radias is more consistant and the track is pre-formed.
Flexi track is great to long straight runs and for gentle bends, but can be a problem on tight curves.
Be sure to allow for expantion at the joints.
Have fun, work slowly,
Cheers Derek Sth Aust.
I copied this from another forum.
I built Phase 1 of my layout with Atlas code 100 track and mostly Atlas turnouts, with a few Peco’s thrown in. Everything has been very solid and reliable. For Phase 2, I’ve switched to code 83. Again, I’m using Atlas track. Where I have tight space constraints, I’m using Atlas snap-switches, but out in the open I designed the layout using #6 turnouts. For these, I am using Walters-Shinohara turnouts driven by Tortoise machines. Having done this, I would never go back.
I like the appearance of the code 83 track better than code 100. The ties look better, and I prefer the brown ties to the black ones of code 100. I’m careful with my trackwork anyway, but I don’t notice that the code 83 is any less reliable or more fussy than code 100. “…
Good luck!
Like a lot of Aussies and Poms I have also used Peco with a bit of Atlas thrown it but for the new layout I am considering Tillig (available from the Orient Express in Adelaide) because I want to try both 12.5mm and 18.2mm gauges (South Australian 3’6″ and 5’3″)
Peco is a good all round track system but not representative of any particular railway geometry but is available in a number of rail heights to represent main line and sidings.. Atlas is unswervingly US of A.
Your local hobby shop is the place to start if you have one. Toy shops (ToysRus) are a bit limited in choice
I started building layouts when I was sixty five and have built 6 and am in the process of my seventh. I use code 100 Peco flextrack and I have never had a problem. As for tie color, it is fairly easy to paint them any color you want. I have tried brown on one layout and an a dirty brown-grey on another. Now I just leave them black. On large radius curves the accepted installation is to solder two sections together and then lay them around the top of the curve. I did this for 5 of my layouts and then had an epiphany. Now I lay one piece of flextrack on the top of the curve and attach the other pieces to complete the curve. Good luck on your venture Bob.
Code 100 Atlas has been my choice in flex track and I think now you can get it in concrete looking ties. But any choice of code is good. as any of them are only as good as it is laid. Caution with the flex track if the joints are in the curves as they tend to spring a bit and the connecting joints will not stay aligned well like a kink. I have been soldiering the joints after I have fitted the track for the curves and straighten the joint to soldier then the rail continues the curve as if it is continuous rail.
Your choice of track. but do good track work. Use a buss wire under the board for each rail and feed feeders up to the rail every 4 to 8 feet along the modules to ensure good power the whole way. It is a very good idea to do this if you are doing DCC or may want to convert to DCC later. Good Luck from Newman