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How to fix Coupler Problems
Paddy asks readers for advice:
“I have 2 sets of HO Bachmann trains. The couplers do not match. Is there a way to change them all to the same? If so, what should I buy? Can I change over to metal? I am a newbie to this great hobby but I have always loved trains. Thank you.”
6 Responses to How to fix Coupler Problems
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youll want to learn how to solder decent. after you get the couplers for your track , your gonna want to solder the couplers to the track. this eliminates “dead track”. but you have to be carefull and use a train car or loco to test the track to make sure they wont derail. do not solder the inside of the track , just the outside.
Nathan, Paddy was asking about couplers that connect locomotives and carriages or wagons together. Your comment is for the”fish plates” that join the sections of rail together. You raised valid points about soldering of fish plates.
Most people lean towards a knuckle coupler as they look more realistic in the 20centuary equipment. Most”toy train” couplers are aimed at simple manufacturing and easy coupling on tight radius curves. Decide what you want as your standard and do some research.
Have a look at how the couplers are fitted to the rolling stock. Some manufacturers produce replacement couplers where you remove the original and the new one fits straight in. Others require the fitting of coupler boxes.
Hope this helps.
Peter
Hi Paddy, I have repaired and converted many couplers.The height of couplers will very and there are different ways to mount them. Most Bachman are truck mounted couplers In most cases Tyco and Bachman cars that have truck mounted couplers an number 28 Kadee coupler will fit these mounts. it is not so much the coupler but the box and spring it goes in. I am assuming you wish to convert to a knuckle coupler. In this kit comes a H locking Bracket to lock a KaDee into the mounting box. You are pretty much limited to what ever the height of the coupler unless you get ones that the coupler is above or below the shank that goes into the mounting box.
For best results though (unless you are staying with very tight turns in your layout), I cut the coupler boxes off the wheel sets to get them out of the way. I will use a number 5 KaDee and mount the box under the car body but space it with a spacer of plastic sheet (Thickness depends on the height of the car to hold the coupler at the right height).
If the couplers are already body mounted then just install the new KaDee Usually an number 5, These come with a flat spring and I tack it up in the mount box with just a smidge of GOO-GLUE.
slide the coupler in place and install the cover. If it does not screw on with a screw then I use a small amount of plastic or Goo Glue to hold it in place (Don’t get it on the coupler). After it sets then adjust the wire hose (uncoupling wire) to clear the track track properly. There are coupler plyers to bend the wire to clear the gauge.(Woops usually the last step- Sorry) The height of the couplers are usually adjusted by using the coupler gauge and raising the car body by installing an No. 208 or 209 spacer washer to the screw that holds the wheel truck on to raise or lower the coupler to match the gauge and / or the next car coupler Then adjust that wire.
I am converting some of my cheaper cars by removing the truck mounted coupler box or just replace the whole wheel truck by removing the old truck, Take a piece of styrene spruew and fill the mount hole by gluing it in where the old truck was mounted, cut off the excess spruew and file smooth. Redrill into that with a small drill bit and use a wood or plastic type of thread screw to hold your new truck on. Mount the body mounted coupler box and coupler on the end of the car then actually mount the wheel truck for it’s final fit with the spacers stated above.. It is actually easy to convert the car with a little practice and it allows you to convert good cheap cars that already look good cheaper than buying up a new car. The cost of new cars today you will find that the fleet you already have will serve your railroad just fine.
Earlier I mentioned if you were using them on sharp curves but this conversion works fine if the cars are not lengthy cars and will still work on sharp curves. You will also have better performance backing up with body mounted couplers.
I Hope this helps what you are trying to do. Newman Atkinson
I went with kadee couplers for all my cars. They are metal and reliable. Get two kadee coupler height gauges and mount them on a separate piece of track. I used three 9 inch atlas sections of track. Body mount all couplers so that nothing is mismatched. If you have a body mounted car next to a truck mounted coupler car on a curve they may derail. Once you have your test track with the kadee height gauges installed its time to mount your couplers. If you need to lower the coupler box on a car then use shims. If you need to raise the coupler height on the car then use the kadee washers between the trucks and car. Keep in mind that if you decide to change over to metal wheels recheck the coupler height. I went with intermountain 33 inch wheels for freight cars and 36 inch for passenger cars. Find yourself some tiny screws and screw the coupler into the bottom of the car. Add a little dry lubricant and your done.
Ive done many tyco cars, model power, Bachmann and other cars that are cheap and made them run well. The last thing I did was to add the correct amount of weight to a car. With a HO scale car its 1 ounce of weight and then 1/2 ounce of weight for every inch of the car. A six inch car would weigh 4 ounces. This is with the couplers, wheels, etc.
Kadees are the go. A tip though from Australia – stick a sliver of 1mm styrene to the rear of the coupler so the “pocket” has an upward cant to the end of the car. This will counteract the inevitable “couple droop” and ensure perfect operation.
As for Nathan his advice about soldering is good, but ofcourse has nothing to do with the question you asked.
Regarda
David
Great suggestions, regarding soldering your track connects, I always solder from the outside of the rail-solder flows along the entire joint nicely.
This way you don mess up the inside of your track.
I made a replica of the CP Rails Spiral Tunnel in the Rockies (1 Step only) this is on a 4% grade and a24in. R. curves.
I have had a lot of problems with disconnects when pulling up and turning on the spiral turns, I tried Kayde connecters and the other type, still some problems. I also found out to have the connecters on the body of the cars. On the straight runs I can pull and use pusher Locos and no problems what ever. I also realize the shorter cars are the best in curves in the grade I have and the weights I try to keep to what is specified.
Any other suggestions, I would appreciate, thank You.