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Wiring Code 100 Insulfrog Crossovers
Mike asks readers for advice:
“Hello, about to embark on wiring my new HO layout for DCC. I use code 100 peco track and points, all of which are electrofrog. I have had to purchase two large/long insulfrog cross overs and I am unsure how to wire them for DCC (I have never wired a layout before). Can anybody help. Many thanks.”
3 Responses to Wiring Code 100 Insulfrog Crossovers
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Mike The wiring of the frog is relative easy. Basically you are taking the rail power of the track rail that the switch rail will be touching the stock rail at that time. There are several switche machines that have a circuit built into them that will throw the rail power that is needed to the frog. I am building my own switches now and it is working very well. If you are using a manual throw consider this: The manual throws cost a little bit. I tried a switch control that is strictly a house light switch. You can get theses for very little and the plastic switch box to go with it. Set the switch in the box and find what would be center for a small hole in the back of the box. You will run a small piano wire threw that hole to your switch tie. You will have a 90 degree elbow in that wire and put it through one of 2 holes you put through the handle of the electrical switch. The switch is already spring loaded and will hold the rail against the stock rail very well. The article was in Model Railroader magazine about january 3 years ago. Works good. The one they showed was just for a manual switch. but if you use a 3-way switch instead you can use the 3 wire screw attachments to feet the right power from the right rail to the frog. The secnd handle hole is for another wire to feed through. You attach that wire into a dowel rod and run that to the side panel of your layout and you now have a push pull rod to throw your manual switch and also ensure you have anf get the proper power to the frog. If your switch is not aligned with the side of your train board not to worry. You just attach that dowel rod with the wire connections to a ho;e in a doule layer of old CD’s that you don’t want anymore That CD will turn the direction of the push pull rod to straighten the travel of it to the side of the layout.by attaching a second rod connected to the CD in another location and have that rod go straight to the edge of the layout.
It works and works well with very little exp[ense. very cheap. about 3 dol;lars tops but just a bit of work.
If you wish to control the switch with an electrical motor consider the tortoise motor as it has besides the motor circuit two extra circuits to power the frog Just use the once circuit with the 3 pins for that and power the frog with it. The other circuit can be used to light signals or the switch position lights your choice. The tortoise is a little more expensive from 16 to 22 dollars depending how many you purchase at a time. I use the tortoise on switches on main line or switches that willbe used a lot. I have been installing the 3 way electrical switches on sidings, yard switches, places that you don’t need powered switches. eventually I wil;l power enroute switches from the computer and will likely control them right from the throttle. Either way these ideas will power your frog. I have been using both on my hand made switches as well and work well on them as well as the MFG switches. Hope this helps from Newman Atkinson
Hi Newman,
Thank you for the very detailed reply. I will look in to all what you have suggested. I thought it was a simple matter of soldering the track on the crossing so each rail was live in the corresponding direction of travel due to it being an insulfrog so all wheels will be touching a live rail as the go over the crossing.
Thank you once again
Mike (I will try and remember to keep you updated!)
Mike
To elaborate further the rails before the frog on either a switch or crossing piece should have power on that rail unless the switch is depending on the switch rail to touch the stock rail.
on a MFG crossing track (or Diamond ) the rail will power through the sections of that rail before and after each insulation.. DCC switches sometimes sends the power from when the switch rail touches the stock rail. and also sometimes the rail does not make good contact. A Sanaharra 3 way switch uses contacts in the switch rail touchiing the stock rail for it and sometimes they need full spring to hold it tight enough to make contact.
On a metal frog the switch motor has a circuit that after the switch is thrown it it send the power from the correct rail to the frog. so there is no insulated gap. On my homemade switches the switch rail does make contact with the stock rail but they are connected by using PC strip ties to connect the rail with positive contact. You cut the copper on the PC strip to ensure there is no short from the rails of the other side. the frog and the connecting rails going out left and right are fed through the switch machine circuit. If your switch is this kind then a rail insulator will be needed to prevent rail power coming in from the rail on the other end. Let me know how you do with this Newman Atkinson. Hope I am not confusing you