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Peco 3-Way Electro Frog Turnout (SL-E99) with a PL-10E Turnout Motor

Lou models in HO and asks readers:

“I just installed a Peco 3-way electro frog turnout (SL-E99) with a PL-10E turn out motor. The motor is fitted directly to the turnout and dropped into the base table through a 40mm x24mm hole. Before installing the motors to the SL-E99, I wired the motors and tested them before attaching them to the track. All worked well.

When I attached the PL_10E’s to the SL-E99 the motors would bind. One in “right” direction when I activated the switch and the other in the “left” direction when I activated the switch. If I gave the motor a little help when I activated the switch it moved the point rails in the proper direction. No problem going in the other direction, and without any help other than the switch motor.”

12 Responses to Peco 3-Way Electro Frog Turnout (SL-E99) with a PL-10E Turnout Motor

  • Kevin Chingsays:

    Hi Lou,
    I had a similar problem with some on our club layout and we uses a fine spray of CRC and this fixed the problem what you will find however is that the Peco motors work well on their own but will not work to well with a load of a switch coupled to them.We also use a CDU ( Capacative dischagre unit) this gives the solenoids a bit of a boost.

  • Davidsays:

    I am using smaiL (https://youtu.be/pil0TLiRkf0) switch motors to work best one has to remove the spring that holds the switch close. So that it move real slow. You use long wire to connect with the switch hole.

    • Sheldon Clarksays:

      Presumably, these are self latching.

  • Garth Familtonsays:

    Peco motors have their limitations, the main one having to add the frog switch. I now use Seep switches that have the frog switch built in. Much easier.

  • Sheldon Clarksays:

    Contact Peco’s technical department – they’re always pleased to help.

  • Peter Glensays:

    Hi Lou , have you ballasted the points,If so you may have a build up under the moving rails of the points or clogging in the throw arm, also that you do not have a build up along the side of the movable rail of the frog or where they touch the side of the rails.Or you may not have enough power to activate the solenoid properly.Use a multi meter to check.Check that the spring is working ok and has not slipped out of its holes.and do not remove it unless you are going to use a tortoise slow motion switch.Or you may try a cdu.

  • John Lordsays:

    Hi Lou, My suggestion is to check the alignment of the solenoid to the turnout.
    I had a somewhat similar situation when using the PL10 with my triang turnouts, where I had secured the PL10 to the underside of the baseboard. By adjusting the tightness of the under board screws, the problem was resolved.

  • David Broadsays:

    If this is the (almost) symetrical 3 way the straight to right motor has to be straight before the straight to left motor can push across to left and vice versa. I wire a diode in circuit so the straight to right mtor goes straight as the straight to left goes left and vice versa. Before the big hefty H&M motors I use were bending the point rails. It sounds like you might have the same issue

  • Lloyd Butlersays:

    I recall that, with the Peco three-way, you needed to switch the first point motor BEFORE switching the second . . . otherwise, if the first set of blades were pointing in the wrong direction, the second motor had to move these blades as well as its own.
    I carefully positioned my studs for probe operation so the point motors were switched in sequence where necessary.

  • Frank MILESsays:

    Are you using 12 volt DC or 16 Volt AC. They don’t work on 12 volt DC without that assistance you spoke about.

  • James Edwardssays:

    Ok, got this email regarding this three way issue your having and looked in on it, Jamming point throws using Peco motors. From your original post it sounds very much to me that you have a issue with the geometry of the point itself as if it worked fine on the bench then failed once installed, something changed in the process. I would take it out and check it against a straight edge, then check your motor clearances, these units a pretty robust normally but they do not like being twisted or put under stress at all and will show this by jamming up on you so when you install it again make certain the bed is level and square and that there is no pressure applied to the unit and that the motors are free to move, they will work with those motors just fine, adding a CDU will make them a little more positive in operation, if you cannot resist the temptation to oil them, do so very lightly, oil attracts dust and dirt, and do NOT remove the spring with these motors, they require the overlock that it offers to hold the blades home, you need only remove that spring when using servo drives so you get slow motion operation, other than that suggest you watch how the ‘Unit’ operates carefully I have instances were people have had them set for the left hand road then wondered why they jammed when they tried to set for the right hand road.????

  • Petersays:

    You are right, remove the spring. I allways do that first.

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