Everything on model trains, model railroads, model railways, locomotives, model train layouts, scenery, wiring, DCC and more. Enjoy the world's best hobby... model railroading!
Helix Calculations For Double Track
Joe came across the free helix calculator and is interested to hear from anyone who has constructed a double track helix layout:
“Can a helix calculator be used for a double track layout? What modification, if any, would need to be made?”
Add your comments if you have any advice for Joe with the construction of his double track helix.
A link to use a free helix calculator is available for readers under the Railroad Resources tab in the top Navigation Bar at https://www.modelbuildings.org
7 Responses to Helix Calculations For Double Track
Leave a Reply
Reader Poll
Loading ...SUBMIT YOUR QUESTION
Download Your Free Catalog
Use Tiny Railroad Micro Controllers
N Scale Track Plans
Watch Video
Model Train DCC HELP
Model Train Help Ebook
NEW TO MODEL TRAINS?
FREE Tour Inside Club
Take a FREE tour inside the club.Scenery Techniques Explained
Scenery & Layout Ideas
To make a helix for double track using the calculator, first to the sums for your minimum radius as for single track, then add the width required for the second track and do them again. It is now a simple matter of reconciling the two to get your double track helix.
Hold your grade to 2%,. Allow height between risers to get at your train. 2 rails is not so critical as to holding that grade.
After 2 rings are installed, run a train with full consist to be sure you can climb it.
Bob s
I have not finished mine but I calculated the helix at the centerline and the outside track will be a slightly lower grade while the inside will be steeper. I intend to use the outside to climb and the inside to descend thus hopefully avoiding any problems. To the best of memory the difference is less than 2 degrees.
Hi there, might I suggest if wanting to have 2 tracks measure the inside track to be outside your minimum Radius or as larger as you can make the HELIX, for you lose 50% of your incline on CURVES which means more LOOPs, LARGER RADIUS to include the 2nd OUTER TRACK.
Do not forget to allow extra CLEARANCE between the 2 tracks.
You can alter the SETTINGS to what you like to try with this Program, just READ THE NOTES.
Make a TEMPLATES from Corrugated Cardboard for the SECTIONS of HELIX, (4 per loop) at a guess 6 or 7 inches wide, cutting from a 8×4 ft sheet of 1/2 inch thick Ply, using tongue and groove at the Joining Ends, depending on the HEIGHT to travel up and Radius, the Number of loops, including this there is the SPACE that you have The Helix, you might be able to have 5 Sections with thinner Ply.
Good Luck, MEASURE TWICE, CUT ONCE.
Excellent advice Graeme. That helped me too!
“JOE” just wondering what SCALE are you work at
how much SPACE have you GO
HOW HIGH or lower are you going.
Are the LOCOs that you have GOOD PULLERs or perhaps YOU HAVE PLENTY OF LOCOS, in Consist or will the TRAINS be short or long.
For me its HO and it’s no less than 24 inches Radius, PLUS the 6 inches, ON THE INSIDE, if there is room for maybe 30 inches, Plus the 6 inches for two tracks and SPACE in between and the outer part of the incline
HI JOE
HELIX CALCULATOR
ENTERED INFORMATION
A. Enter Track Radius (inches) – 24 – from 4 to 100
B. Enter greatest height of train (inches) 3.75 – from .5 to 50
C. Enter total height to climb (inches) 18 from 3 to 96
D. Enter width of ring (inches) 6 from 1 to 24
E. Select segments per layer (a whole number) 5 from 2 to 8*
ANSWER
F. Ring diameter is 52inches
G. Vertical distance between rings is 4.00 inches between rings including 1/2″ thickness of ring
H. Ring circumference is 163.28 inches per each ring
I. Grade is 2.45%
J. Rings needed is 4.50 rings
K. Length each segment (based on segments in E) 32.66 inches
L. Total material length is 734.76 inches.
M. Total Material Required 30.61 sq.ft.
EVERYTHING is nearly NORMAL HERE, but for ITEM (B), I would be using DOUBLE STACKERS, I would not want to miss out running up the HELIX with them :).
The Incline is a little HIGH, but depending on what LOCOS, if not I would CHANGE ITEM (C) to 22 inches, bringing down the incline
WITH A DRY FITTING
Are we using DCC or DC to power the Trains,
you will have to PRE DRILL DROPPER (BARE ONE STRAND ) less than 1mm wire holes that can be pushed through, with this 1 strand of wire Soldered onto the outside of the TRACK and going through the underlay, through the Ring and for the time being bent over out of the way, with small gauge wire going across the Ring to both Tracks, RED and BLACK, the rail of OUTER TRACK and the our rail of the INNER track(left hand RED RIGHT BLACK), bring the wire back to the INSIDE of the HELIX and down the most under side of the THREADED ROD to your MAIN POWER SUPPLY
To keep the RINGS apart I would use the Tongue and grooving and BLOCKS of WOOD the same height as ITEM (B) using a ROOFING SQUARE, small end on the BASE, as you build the Helix Dry mark and drill the HOLES for the lengths of THREADED ZINC PLATED ROD with NUTS AND WASHERS FOR ALL LEVELS, that will fit in from the BASE RINGS as you start from the bottom getting the Helix Rings in place up to the PLACE where you started from, LAY THE TRACK and UNDERLAY, thinking the BEST PLACE would be at the JOIN, here you will have a No. 1 Nut and WASHER under the RING then another WASHER and NUT on top of the Ring and so on around with the Rings getting back at the START, where the TRACKS are on the FLAT, you start laying UNDERLAY and TRACK till you run out of RINGS, then back on the RINGs till you get back to where the TRACK is under your NEW LEVEL, and back onto lay underlay and TRACK AGAIN and so on,
till you reach THE CEILING (opps you have gone to far )
to on your OTHER LEVEL,
so METHOD is,
RINGs,
glue tongue and groove and threaded Rod, Nuts and washers,
the underlay and Track, just one other thing here, PREDRILL your TRACK SLEEPERS with a SMALLER than the SCREW or th Track PINS
do you use TRACK PINs, yes (you will need a some blacks of wood that fit neatly on top of the track under and under the ring your working on
or do you use very small screws, that do not penetrate through the Ring, because once the Ring above is in place it will be hard to move the track.
While doing all of the ABOVE, I am always looking back toward where I started and looking forward as well making sure the THIS GOES THERE and THAT GOES HERE, always making sure everything is right where it should be
MORE LATER no doubt