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Securing Kato Track in Place

Joseph asks readers:

“I need some help with product screws for securing my N scale Kato track. I don’t want to use glue or nails because somewhere down the line if I want to change the layout screws it will be a lot easier. I tried some but the head interferes with the height of the rail and the bottom of trains hit them. Any thoughts?”

10 Responses to Securing Kato Track in Place

  • Robert Guntersays:

    I have never found a screw that will work. If you find one please let me know.

    Thanks

  • ROBERT SCHWORMsays:

    For using small micro screws, instead of screwing the rails down in the center, how about securing the members out on their ends, say like this –

    Screw member down – -count down about 4 members and jump over to the other side of the rails. Drive a screw here and then alternate this pattern around the layout. Perhaps a nice small round head like a track spike…may almost disappear into the member. Weather track with paint and it may just about all blend in. Be sure your screws reach down to the plywood deck for a secure grip. Or perhpas thru homosote board.

  • Lousays:

    I have a large portion of my layout using Kato track and although its HO scale I find that fastening screws to the edge of the road bed holds it securely. For instance two strategically placed screws on either side of the road bed where the screw head holds the track in place securely while not actually penetrating the road bed works nicely. Try it out!

  • geoffsays:

    I know you said you don’t want to use glue, but I used acrylic latex caulk for a flextrack oval in 009 (9mm gauge track). Track glued onto cork underlay glued to foam insulation board. I had to take it up as I couldn’t get the flex track to make a smooth join on a curve, and it came up no problem with a plastic paint scraper. (Although only the track was re-useable).

    If you must use screws, I think you will need to countersink each hole to lower the screw head. Alternatively, you could try drilling a small hole in the side of the trackbed to take a screw. But you can get some pretty small screws at the type of hobby store that caters to people who build doll houses.

  • David Gladwinsays:

    I normally use thin slices of double sided tape which lasts for up to 10 years. One advantage is that it will give a little as the track expands/contracts. Try a short length.

  • Nicholas Westwoodsays:

    Try black tack.

  • Garret Colemansays:

    I use track nails on my N scale layout. I have made many changes and they are not hard to remove with side cutter plyers.

  • Jeffrey Thomassays:

    I just use Elmer’s glue along the edge to hold my Kato unitrak in place. Mine is N scale track, it should work for HO track.

  • Gregory Bowensays:

    I use regular dressmakers pins and white glue along the edges of the trackbed – when ballasted, the pins are removed and if the need arises to move the track, I spray with water which softens the glue…easily moved and replaced. Most of my unitrack is on its third layout now with no problems.

  • Briansays:

    If I were attaching Kato track to a hard surface such as plywood I would try that method described by Lou above. I will be laying my Kato track onto 2 inch thick insulation board so I’m going to use rubber cement. That will hold it down and it’ll be easy for me to take it up when I want to change something.

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