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7 Responses to Filling Track Gaps
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Old school is to use a jewelers saw and cut the right sized bit to insert in the gap – using a rail joiner to hold the insert between the two other pieces. If all your cuts are nice and clean you wont even notice it.
How about using an insulated rail joiner or take a piece of 1/8 inch styrene and trim to shape?
With a 15-25 watt soldering iron you can fill the outside of the gap. Personally, depending on brand and rail. if your gap i near a straight section, I’d pull the rail up to the gap, This moves yur gap from the curve to a straight, fill in the gap with solder, smooth with file. Other option otal relay.
get styrene fhat is the thickness you need. super glue it in the gap after soldering a rail joiner if it is not isolation joint. After glue is set get you jewlers files out or dremel but only for the large removals. then file the styrene to rail profile while in place. I would cut small piece to glue in there.
I drop a “blob” of solder into the gap and when cooled I just file it down to the right height and width… paying particular attention to the inside of the the blob.
I use a two component metal glue from Bison for this. First clean the gap well with alcohol and then generously fill it with the glue and when it has cured, file and sand. The adhesive has high electrical insulation value. So great for the block system
I agree with Tom Osterdock. I use styrene to fill my gaps. It works well.