Why do some Trains Hesitate or Stall on Track?

February 25, 2015

Article contributed by Club Member Andrew Wilkinson

Having a train that stutters and jerks is a common problem raised by model railroaders (especially beginners in the hobby). Believe me, there’s not a lot of fun in having to prod and push a train along the track. However, these problems are often easily rectified, but first the cause(s) needs to be diagnosed.

Obviously keeping the layout (track) and rolling stock (wheels) clean and free from dust and grime is essential, and is more often than not a factor in poor operation.

Humidity can affect track too. Using a dehumidifier can assist in keeping the room humidity to 50-55% range. A tarnished rough track can be problematic as it is likely to have a highly electrical resistant surface. Apart from reducing engine performance, tarnished track can cause wear on the pickup wheels if they become oxidized or dirty.

How to Fix Rail Joints

The same goes for rail joints, they need to operate efficiently. The connection between the each piece of track could provide enough electrical resistance to cause a train to slowdown or pause momentarily, especially on track that is at the other end of the layout. The solution in this case could include replacing worn (or loose) fish-plates and to electrically connect track pieces together using a track-power booster cable.

Fixing Locomotive Problems

Any number of other faults can result in erratic operation. With consistent use, washers, insulating bushes, and other electrically devices could show signs of wear and no longer be properly insulating the locomotive chassis electrical parts. Damaged or loose drive gears need to be fixed and properly secured to their shafts. Also watch for any wheels that work loose on their axle shaft.

Poor Power Supply Can Cause Trains to Stall or Stop

In a nutshell; model trains rely on the track rails for power. A train will slow down, or even stall, if that connection is inconsistent or broken.

Trains need enough consistent power throughout the course of the journey, whether they are close to the power source or on the other side of the layout. Erratic running could be an indication the trains are not receiving enough power, so you might need to improve the power flow. A drop in voltage can usually be fixed up by including more connections.

A drop in voltage is a likely cause if the train slows or stops just in a certain spot on the track. The distance from the power supply and the track section joints can weaken the power flow. Consider the solutions already mentioned to tighten any loose rail joiners and if needed, run another set of wiring from the power supply directly to the problem section of track. Obviously care needs to be taken to ensure each wire is connected to the correct rail.

With large model layouts, and also with most DCC systems, utilizing a bus wire (with feeders) to multiple track sections is the preferred option. The use of heavier wire (No 14 to No 10 gauge) depending on the scale and run length, is generally more productive than the rails. Smaller (No 20 to No 18) feeder wires can be joined as often as required between the rail and bus. These feeders are often connected at 6 to 12 foot intervals.

Rail joiners can also be soldered. This can definitely reduce the voltage drop, as well as helping to eliminate any rail kinks that could cause a derailment. Leaving a few joiners open will provide some room for expansion and contraction over the course of the year.

I would be interested in hearing other suggestions from readers.

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joeldee/berlin says:

February 25, 2015 at 10:27 am

DCC–Most of us have added “Keep Alive” type capacitors to locomotives which solves many of these issues. Also, it does away with “Electro Frog” switches for ALL locomotives no matter the electrical pickups! It does increase startup times briefly, but well worth the addition. These capacitors should be mandatory on ALL NEW engine releases from manufacturers-or at least an option!

John says:

February 25, 2015 at 1:48 pm

I just wanted to say/comment about HO scale train sets slowing issues. My preference to fix these things are a personal pref. I for starters run a razor blade across the two tracks (power disconnected of course) at about 70 to 90 degree angle and lightly scrape the surface of the tracks to give them a new shine fresh clean surface then wipe down with rub alcohol to remove any flakes or splinters. Another thing / method preferred is to use a small piece of black insulated wire and solder it to the outside of each connecting rail. I am not a fan of the joiners or fish joint connections. Secure the tracks together shoring up the two rail ends together using hot glue to the underside of the RR ties then solder the wire to each rail outside edge. Just my preferences and thought I would share that. Hope it help or gives ideas to others.

Tom Rainbow says:

February 25, 2015 at 4:53 pm

Sorry to be dim, but what’s a bus wire?

Many thanks.

s says:

February 25, 2015 at 6:46 pm

It seemed like I had to clean my track every time I wanted to run trains, then I applied a product called RailZip 2. I havent had to clean track in several months.

Brendan says:

February 28, 2015 at 3:09 am

When I ran ona DC system I was constantly replacing the rail joiners . What I noticed was the amount of residual glue and gunk that sat within in the rail joiners from the drowning that went on during ballasting. This had to reduce cunductivity

I have since converted to DCC and use the mains or Bus wire with droppers every couple of feet. I also solder some thin gauge wire across the joiners in difficult to get at or less visible track sections.

These methods made a visible improvement in how the locos ran, especially at low speed and over insulfrog turnouts.

Mary Jane says:

December 15, 2019 at 11:18 pm

Where did you get that rail zip to