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Is Your Track too close to the edge of the benchwork?
Space limitations may tempt you to run the track close to the edge of the benchwork. Doing so could allow for an extra track, but the big risk is that your prize loco could end up wrecked on the floor.
The accident might not be the result of an operational derailment. Instead, it might simply be because someone caught the train with their elbow, or perhaps an earthquake shook it free. When gravity comes into play the only direction is down, and the only thing stopping your loco will be the solid floor which could be several feet away.
Trains generally look longer when they disappear momentarily behind a tree, some vegetation or a structure. Where feasible, try and move the track at least 2-3 inches back from the edge of the benchwork and add some small obstacles between the track and the edge. Use some well-glued miniature bushes, a small slightly raised bank, a robust fence of some kind, or some clear acrylic plexiglass to form a physical barrier.
5 Responses to Is Your Track too close to the edge of the benchwork?
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Before you track is permanently attached, take your two longest, widest cars, couple them together to make certain you have the clearance they need. A little extra clearance NEVER hurts!!! Understand that you may get a wider car in the future. That would not be a good time to find you do not have the clearance you need!!
Hope this helps.
Feel free to ask more questions. As a retired “old foggie” I have plenty of time and it will not be a bother.
Wishing you happy holidays, whichever you celebrate and a happy, healthy, and prosperous new year!
Placing a fascia board around the front edge prevents locos or cars running off the edge. Helps with landscaping by being profiled to shape. Also improves look of the benchwork. Add a cotton sheeting curtain uberneath adds “museum” quality.
Good Morning. I am a module railroader. Our tracks are laid on 2″ centers starting at 3″ off the front and back of a module. On the back of the module are scenic backboards protecting a train, in the event of a derailment, from taking a nose dive off the module.
On the front, We use a 1″ wide strip of pink insulating styrofoam. The foam is shaped into small rolling hills using a hot knife. We then sand the foam to a smooth finish. When sanding, take care NOT to inhale the styrofoam dust produced!
The strip is then glued to the module using Aleene’s Tacky Glue. Once set, paint it to match your module’s theme and apply turf, foliage, trees, etc.
Once set, you’ll need to take care not to damage it. The club I belong to, The Potomac Module Crew, participates in many shows throughout the year. During transport, the foam edge occasionally get damaged. You’ll need to keep a small amount of paint and foliage on hand to repair the damage.
If you transport your modules to shows you’ll also need to take care to keep your modules adequately separated during transport so as not to damage the foam edges. I use a 20″ x 4′ piece of the pink styrofoam board between the modules to ensure the they remain separated. This has work very well over the years.
I hope this helps!
Tim
I use a long piece of acrylic (3″ wide),running along the rail with the risk of falling the locos and cars, Drill small holes in it and attache to the board (usually 3/4″ plywood), this way you won’t miss the action of your trains
I use truss bridges along the edge of the layout.