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Flex Track On Module Joint OUCH!!!
Ryan shares this question:
“I know I got things wrong when I built my layout with 2ft x 4ft modules and had some flex track split on the curve. I shouldn’t have used flex track on the module joint…I know that now OUCH!! Is there a quick fix, or do I need to relay the track?”
If you can assist Ryan, please add your suggestion or comments under this post.
15 Responses to Flex Track On Module Joint OUCH!!!
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Hi Ryan
The best way to stop further problems in the future is to use sent track
When using flex track on curves i solder two or three lengths of flex track at the joins and then start at the back of the layout and solder the first section to the straight track and gradually curve the tack to the size of the curve required and then fasten in place with track pins or glue and then work to the front of the layout and fasten to the straight section for a better join.
That’s long been a problem. Just take a piece of non-flexible track of the correct radius, place it on top of you existing track and mark the ends on the permanently laid track. If you still want to separate the panels, cut out the flex track the new track will replace, and re-attach the new, non–flex track in it’s place at one end and solderer it carefully. Attach the other ends with only rail joiners. If that panel will not be move, solder both ends (carefully).
File any roughness of the solder joints.
If you have one, take a four-wheel truck or 6-wheel truck with your finger where it attaches to the car and run it over the joints to feel for any roughness. Be certain that excess solder has not narrowed the gauge.
CAREFULLY clean off any soldering flux that might be on the rails.
DONE!!
Now, on to ballasting, scenery and RAILROADING!!!
Happy Holidays, whichever ones you celebrate and have a happy, healthy new year!!
Mike.
I don’t have a fix for you. I had the same problem with some test track, and I ended up planning my layout so as not to have joints on curves. And while I don’t do modules, one thing I’ve read along the way is that the joint between modules should be straight.
I don’t know which part of the world you are in, or what gauge, or what radius, but if it’s a gentle curve you might see if there’s a solid template, such as the Tracksetta from Peco, that you could use to finesse the joint.
All of my joints in the track are on curves, I laid the track first they carfully cut the track with track saw. Never had a problem. I made sure the I over secured the track for 1.5 inches on each side of where the joint was to be.
Piece of cake.
What kind of problems are you having with the joints? I’m assuming they are kinking on you causing derailments. Yes, you can fix it but since it’s a modular it would be better to relay the track at the curve and solder the joints leading into the curve. Without knowing exactly what the issue is, you’ll get 50 different responses from 50 different people.
what do you mean by split? did it break in two down the middle? I’m not sure what you are asking, how are you attaching the track to the module and what is the underlayment?
I got to the point of giving up on flex track on curves. I had issues with making the joints meet up properly so I went with curved sectional track and flex on the straights. Atlas has packages with multiple size sections which is nice both in curves and straights when there is a need for that right size piece somewhere to line things up but yeah, flex works greatest on the straights. Now there are people that have the knack of making flex work right on curves. It was alot of headache with flex on curves for me. Best of luck
Hi Ryan,
I use Peco flex rack for my layout. When doing the curves I soldered the rail joiners onto adjoining lengths of flex track before installation so that when I did install the track there were no kinks or any other disruptions to the smooth track line.
Why not flex track on curves and joints on curves?
Flex track has one rail fixed and one sliding. Use the fixed rail on the inside of your curve and stagger your joints especially on curves. Try and sold your joints and use the Peco Tracksetta as a heat sink and to keep everything in gauge.
You have done nothing “wrong” using smaller track board modules except make more work for yourself, and if woodworking is your thing, so what.
Go for it Bro.
I’ve don it without any problems. I used copper strips glued under the track, solder rails to the copper and it keeps it in place. Do not forget to cut the copper down the center between rails to avoid shorts.
I don’t have any direct experience of this but intuitively, the success or failure of what you’ve done rests firstly on the alignment of the individual boards and secondly on how stable the track is.
As far as the alignment of the boards is concerned, metal pattern makers dowels are a popular means of ensuring that the baseboard alignment is always spot on. They’re not particularly cheap but providing they’re installed carefully, should guarantee accuracy every time.
Turning to the track, it’s important to ensure that it doesn’t move and a popular way of doing this is to glue a copperclad sleeper at the very edge of each board and solder the rails to that. With the boards correctly in alignment and the rails attached firmly to the board, everything should be fine.
Alternatively, the cheaper solution is just to bolt or clip the boards together and use rail joiners on the end of each rail to hold them in alignment. Again, that relies on the track being firmly attached to the baseboard to ensure that the curve remains smooth across the transition.
If anyone has a better idea that’s tried and tested, please use it in preference to mine! Overall though, I’m sure you’re not the first person to have done this and providing the track is firmly attached to the baseboard, there’s no reason why it should be a problem.
Essentialy, the modules must fit together very securely and very precisely. Model railroad suppliers sell dowel and socket parts for joining modules in precise alignment. A possiblity is having that track section (and its base maybe) drop into place across the join after the modules are fitted together, and metal pins (as droppers from the rail) fitting into small sockets for electrical contact.
I put the sliding side of the flex track on the inside of the curve. this puts closing pressure on the joint. Also you only have to trim one rail. This was used on a helix I made and streamlined the construction.
I built a modular 12×8 HO layout knowing we would move at some point in the future. There were at least 8 curved sections of flex track (Atlas code 83) that crossed those joints.
Solution: After the move, I cut said track back 12″ in each direction and put down a new piece of flex track over the joint. NOT one problem!
My radii are 32″, 34″ and 36″ so using a ‘fixed radius’ piece of track was not an option.