Jim C posted this question:

“I overheard someone at the train show taking about “quartering the wheels of a locomotive”, but didn’t get the chance to find out what he meant. I’m just curious on what quartering is, how is it done, and if its worthwhile? From what I overheard, I gather it has something to do stopping a loco from swaying back and forth, but I’m not sure?”

Add your comments below.

Here’s a couple of very interesting photos sent in by online model train club member Max of the Guilherand-Granges Model Train Show in France. Thanks for sharing.

In 2013 The Daily Mail in the UK ran this story “End of the line for model railway fan as housing association demands he dismantle £10,000 train set in attic on health and safety grounds”

Retired builder and father-of-three, Robert Burdock (61 at the time), had been into model railroading for 40 years. His model railway which had been in the same location for 15 years had 70ft of track with 63 locos.

Whether Robert Burdock was right or wrong, it does highlight the importance of safety when constructing layouts in roof cavities. Obviously the weight of the finished project including benchwork, scenic features, rolling stock, structures, electrics, accessories etc. as well as the weight of the engineer and any visitors all needs to be taken into consideration.

Results of a recent poll I ran showed that 5% of layouts were to be located in roofs/attics/lofts. When space is limited in the family home, model railroaders of try and think outside the square when locating layouts. A lot of people decide that a loft is a great ‘out of the way’ place to set up a model train set.

Yes, a loft can be a good solution, but be careful and do your homework first. Unless the loft has been properly converted there is a danger that you may overload the ceiling joists (resulting in cracked ceilings in the room below). There could also be the possibility of overloading the entire roof trusses resulting in a collapse… far worse scenario. Always seek professional advice, because some roofs cannot be modified safely to accommodate a load bearing down from “inside” the roof. If in doubt consult an engineer before locating your train set in a loft.

Randall, a reader to this blog also sent in this advice:

1. Consult a structural engineer, not an architect. The architect is about use of space and how humans and buildings interact, but knows very little about structural loads.

2. If you use a loft or “attic”, make sure it’s inside the insulated envelope of the home. If it isn’t, two things can happen:

A. In the summer it can get hot enough to deform plastic parts (shells, couplers, track ties, etc.)

B. In the winter it can get cold. The problem isn’t the cold itself, but what happens when the warm air of spring (or that comes through the trap door) comes up against cold materials: condensation. The water will condense wherever the warmer air can get to, not just on the outside of the model or box. This can happen in unheated garages, as well.

Tom models O gauge and asks readers:

“I picked up a Lionel Pennsylvania M1a mountain 4-8-2 steam loco at an estate sale last year. It seems to work fine. The problem is it did not come with a tender. I thought no big deal I’ll get one from Lionel. Well they don’t have any. It was made in 2003. I’ve called all kinds of places with no luck. Does anyone know where I can get the correct tetherless tender for it? The tender has all the sound system in it.Hope someone can help!”

Gary asks readers:

“I’m looking for HO scale model engine wash racks used around service terminals for both steam and diesel era. If anyone  can please let me know who might be a manufacturer. Thanks.”

Bob asks readers this question:

“My mom just gave me a big box of HO train stuff that I know nothing about. A lot of the cars are dated early 70’s to early 80’s. There is one engine that appears like it was built in the 30’s. I want to set it up for my grandson. It has several engines and lot of track but I don’t see any power supply. What do I need to make it go? Thanks.”

Mark needs help from readers:

“I dis-assembled my Ho AT & SF steam engine to clean. The wheels are connected by two metal strips and the mounting holes are not symmetrical. When operating, the motion of the two bars were an opposing X pattern. I didn’t think to mark them as I never imagined the asymmetry or this problem. I think I tried all of the possible (8) combinations but the wheels lock up every time. Help please.”

Dale is keen to get started in model railroading (either HO or N scale) and asks readers:

“I want to get a model train setup that I can operate. I’d like DCC with maybe two locos and an interesting track and stay under $500. Any suggestions?”

A bit of fun to kick of 2017 with another train scene in our popular “spot the difference” series. See if you can spot all 7 differences. Add your answers using the comments link below. Have fun!

Reg sent in this interesting scene from the Shoeburyness Model Railway Exhibition at Essex in the UK.