Model Trains
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It would be interesting to hear some different views on train operation methods. There will probably be many differing views. You can add your comment or suggestion using the COMMENTS link below.
For example; when you operate your trains do you start each session with the trains staged, or have you masterminded your operations plan thoroughly enough to enable you to complete each op session, and then start off from precisely where you left off the night before?
When you operate your railroad alone, do you use waybills, car cards, and a train sheet so you can begin the next time at the mark where you concluded last time?
Or, when you operate your trains with friends, do you start off each op session with the first moving train in the morning? This is presuming you have pre-positioned trains in the yard so that crews have a ‘soft’ start. Do you finish every session with the last train for the night? Or, when ‘time is up’ do you pick-up the session at a later stage?
Or, do you prefer to just run your trains with no real system in mind.
To be honest; there really are no right or wrong answers, so long as you are having fun and don’t cause a pile-up or derailment that could damage your trains or layout.
Those are just some possible scenarios that you might personally adopt, or that you might have at least considered.
Share your thoughts on op sessions and how you personally like to operate the trains on your layout by adding a comment (or advice) in the COMMENTS below this posting.
Bill shares his thoughts with readers:
“For some years now I have been wondering why we don’t convert to battery powered trains powered by lithium rechargeable batteries. The loco could be controlled by a transmitter as is used for RC planes. The loco could simply be parked on a battery recharging section of track when the battery runs down. Imagine the headaches removed when track no longer needs to be wired. Are any manufacturers considering this?”
Add your comment below.
HO hobbyist Ed asks readers:
“Is it possible to doubleheader a Marklin loco?”
Add your comment and see other comments below.
The online Model Train Club is into its ninth year, with resources the membership numbers increasing every month. Some members have been with the club since it started. The online club is keeping pace with the ever changing times and includes categories like ‘ELECTRONICS’ for members to access. The online club is by no means a replacement for joining your local model railroad club, however it does provide easy access to a giant resource library which members can access any time of the day or night, wherever they are worldwide. Current members are spread across the globe including: Canada, USA, UK, Australia, Germany, South Africa, New Zealand, France and in numerous other countries.
Steve Frenken sent in these photos to share:
Steve says – “My dad is 92, before his 90th birthday, I picked up his N scale train and unfinished layout and set up a display cabinet so he could see them. For the past 17 years, his layout was packed up from a previous move. He wasn’t able to finish the layout but still liked model trains. I made a case from scratch that would hold enough of the trains that my dad remembers. I used a modified trestle kit, cork oak bark, an old house and station that my dad had worked on many years ago and supplemented the trains with older sets from a variety of sources.”
Ho enthusiast Don asks:
“I am looking for a system to imitate rail yard sounds. Huffing & Puffing, bells, whistles. Something with a push button at the controls to sound the imitation noise of a train for my grandchildren to hear when operating the trains. Any such product out there? Seems like a no-brainer.”
Bill P asks readers:
“One issue that is causing me some background concerns is that I have a near perfect Hornby A4 ‘Silver Fox’ in appropriate Jubilee livery. Sadly there is some damage to paintwork on the tender and I am keen to acquire a replacement as this is one of ‘key trains’. So, if you know where I could seek a body shell for the tender or locomotive & end advise would be appreciated. In the interim I will continue to monitor eBay etc.”
“I am running 00 gauge and wondered is there any adverse effect running double headed engines?”
Mark Rauen makes this observation of a model train set he purchased:
“I cannot speak to anything other than what I have but…
I purchased a used Bachmann Diesel Express HO Train Set. In addition I purchased a new unopened Bachmann Track Pack (Steel Alloy E-Z Track with black bed.) When I run the train around the fixed circle track it runs fine, when I run it on an oval it is fine up to about 80% throttle. When I use the turnouts the cars derail almost every time no matter what the speed. These are remote activation turnouts. And here is what happens. (Gleaned from keen observation over a few hours of trying variations of numerous adjustments and work arounds.)
When the turnouts are set for the straight away the cars can be run up to full speed without derailing. When the turnout is switched to the curve the cars derail as soon as the trailing end of the engine starts the turn.
Here is my opinion of the problem; poor design and cheap construction.
Let me explain.
When my engine is traveling straight everything is fine, when the engine starts into the the 18″ radius turn the coupler moves a bit to the left or right. (I have the old style HO Universal Horn Hook couplers.) This pushes the coupler on the rolling stock coupler, which is still moving straight, to the right or left. At up to 80% throttle the rolling stock can handle this pressure and stay on track. At full speed it will derail 1 out of 5 times. When it hits the turnout it will ALWAYS derail at any speed. The reason is the locomotive coupler pushes sideways on the stock coupler too hard and the taper of the cheap plastic wheels forces the forward truck of the stock to move in the opposite direction of the turn. This causes the front wheels of the forward truck to ride up on and over the rail. The lighter the rolling stock the easier it is to derail. I tried adding weights to the front of the stock and saw a minor improvement, 1 out of 10 times it stayed on the track at up to 40% power.
This is where I place the blame squarely on the design. From my experience the rolling stock is far too light. They added a lot of weight to the engine for obvious reasons but then they made the cars as light as possible to save on cost. It would have been nothing for them to add a weight in the base of the car or even in the trucks of the stock themselves.
In my opinion this ‘toy rolling stock’ offers nothing but frustration to new people like me and my grandson. I suspect that the weight needed to keep these cars on the track would cost the manufacturer a few cents per axle? I think this is right because that is what I paid for the material and I am not a factory buying in large quantity.
I have bought my last Bachmann product, not even used.
Samuel asks readers:
“Does one of your blog followers know a way to add weight to my 2 Ho locos to increase their pulling power? Also how to distribute the weight over the wheelbase?”
Brock has a follow-up question to one he asked a little while ago:
“I asked a question about if rolling stock or locomotives from the USA were ever in the UK. I got an answer and was told that The US may have sold The UK locomotives before The US joined WWII. Thank you, I have found this is true. I am now wondering what type of locomotives were sold and were they repainted? Thanks.”
HO guy Brock asks:
“Has union Pacific Railroad ever used electric locomotives? Thanks.”
Wayne would like some guidance from those in the know:
“Either scale would be appropriate for the era modeling, space is at a premium to some extent. Is one head and shoulders above the other – HO vs HOn3?”
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Matt from NSW in Australia has this question for those in the know:
“I live in an apartment (I think you call it a condo in the states) and haven’t got a lot of space for an HO layout. I want HO not N scale because I like the larger train size. Don’t fall off your chair but the surface I have to work with is only 55″ x 23″. I know that’s not a lot of room to play with and know I will need to stick to small switcher engines and the like. My preference is for continuous running with possibly a distorted oval design with possibly 10″ turns? Not really sure what will work best.
I would appreciate any ideas for types of layout and rolling stock etc.? Haven’t started yet so am open to suggestions. Thanks a million and thanks for publishing my question!”
To add an answer or comment click “COMMENTS” underneath. To ask a question click “ASK A QUESTION” underneath any posting. It’s that easy.
Wayne posted this question to readers:
“I have several steam locos in both N and HO gauge and they run poorly forward but run MUCH BETTER backwards. Any Ideas, cause or cures? Thank you.”
Use the COMMENTS link to add or view answers.
To post a question use the ASK A QUESTION link.
Gabriel posted this question for readers:
“Hi. Can DC and DCC work on the same layout by switching between the two? Can the clips for the points converting for DCC affect DC operation? I am considering also buying HO DCC equipment but to run on the same track. Thanks.”
Sharon is hoping for helpful getting started advice from those in the know:
“Hi my son who is 12 is trying to start his own OO set. We are both complete novices so would appreciate any help!!! He has got a starter set with a small Great Western engine with a 12 AC controller. He has been given an old Evening Star steam train which have been told works! However not on our track. When reading websites is it something to do with it being DC?? Any help much appreciated. Thanks.”
Help for anyone getting started in model railroading – Beginners Blueprint to Model Trains
Edward has this question for readers:
“I’ve been offered an S scale Die Cast Locomotive. They say it is Atlantic 300. But it has 6 main wheels, none in the front, and none in the back. But the cowcatcher is extended more than average and it has a coupling like a switcher. The body resembles a 342 Switcher. But the 342 switcher has 8 main wheels. And there is no e unit in boiler. Can someone help me identify it please?”
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