Jack is also a member of the online model train club and sent in this tip:

“Most people buy the white or red grapes to snack on. They are a healthy snack. However they are more. Be careful pulling them from the stem. Dry the stems (usually 24 hrs is enough) put some school glue, hot glue or almost any adhesive and apply the ‘moss’ available in most any craft or mega stores for very few dollars. The trees look natural and no two are alike.”

There are hundreds more member tips inside the members area at the online Model Train Club.

Jamie, a keen member of the online model train club sent in this tip:

“I use those little tubes available for garden sprinkler systems as sewerage and drainage pipes. I cut them into short pipes lengths of 1″, 1 1/2″ or even up to 2″. I then paint them a steel or concrete color. For culverts, I bought a pack of those bendy drinking straws the kids love to use. Because they bend they work well as corrugated parts on some culverts. Obviously I paint those too.”

Here are the results of the last poll. A total of 445 people participated so that’s a good number to get a fair result.

When asked “Do you make the trees on your layout?” people answered:

Yes, I make them all (18%)

Yes, I make some (33%)

No, I buy them ready-made (26%)

I don’t have a layout yet (21%)

Joe sent in this tip:

“An easy way to make a corn field is to soak corragated cardboard for about 5 minutes in warm water. Then peel off outer layer and allow the other layer with flat surface to dry. When dry, paint brown, and sprinkle ground brown cover on it. When dry you can ‘plant’ your corn stalks into the high parts, it looks great and makes perfect straight rows.”

John comments:

“Wow, great tips and very useful! Tunnels can be made with insulation foam, but buying a portal and fixing it up as you suggest is really good. In fact I have a Life-Like (anything but) small N-Scale tunnel that I was wondering what to do with, and I can dress it up as you said with paint, ground cover, trees/bushes, and a little lightweight hydrocal, as well as detailing the rocks on the tunnel openings.”

Jay asks readers:

“Hi, just starting to build my first layout and was wondering if anybody has tried the Woodland Scenics River Pass ST1484 layout. I would love to hear all comments good/bad and where is best place to get one. Thanks Jay”

Jack kindly sent in this idea:

"Most people buy the white or red grapes to snack on. They are a healthy snack.  However they are more. Be careful pulling them from the stem. Dry the stems (usually 24 hrs is enough) put some school glue, hot glue or almost any adhesive and apply the 'moss' available in most any craft or mega stores for very few dollars. The trees look natural and no two are alike."

Jonty has been a member of my online Model Train Club for 7 months now posted this idea in the members area:

I prefer grass carpet which is a simulated grass with a paper backing. It is hard-wearing and easy to apply to large areas. However too much of it can look a little too perfect (like a golfing green). What I do is weather it in places with a little bleach (watered down). Depending on how strong the bleach concentration is, the grass carpet with turn whitish, or a browny, or yellowy color. These colors can be effective on steeper slopes with little vegetation.

I have also used the Woodlands Scenic scatter grass and also make my own from a recipe that seems to change every time I make it. I often combine the above two techniques (bleached grass carpet with scatter grass) to get a very natural looking scene.

Chris is a keen member of my online Model Train Club and sent in this tip.

I use building construction foam that’s normally for expansion joints to build retaining walls on my layout. There are a couple of different types of this product and one has a cover you peel away leaving a very sticky surface. To imitate rocks I have used a variety of materials including crushed slate, aquarium stones and crushed brick which I apply to the sticky surface. I then add some grout between the stones. You could use this technique for roads or paths too.

There are hundreds more useful tips for registered members to access inside the club area.

Roger has a question for anyone who has used lichen as part of their scenery:

“I live in the northwest where various forms of lichen are readily available. I would like to know how to treat lichen and preserve it so it does not dry out and stiffen, making it unsuitable for folliage etc.”

Add your comment below.

Tom has a scenery question for readers:

“I have just started to get in to the part of my layout where there is going to be a pond. How do you get it to look real?”

If Dan has a look at pages 76 and 77 of Model Train Help there several ideas for making a pond, rolling brook, waterfall, and drainage canal.

John sent in this suggestion for model railroaders:

 "Hi this is john just a quick story and tip for all you in the hobby im working on a scene on my layout that involves a cattle pen/cattle loading area/coral with a house on the property. 

I came to a area that I thought would look terrific with a split rail fence,so off to the hobby shop I went. When I arrived I asked the clerk about the fences I was interested in he told "oh yes sir we have a large variety of them", when I asked him for the prices of them my jaw hit the floor I said to him of you misunderstood me this fence is for my ho model layout not for MY house. 

I was absolutly stunned of the prices they want for stuff...I dont know about everyone else but im on a fixed income and do this on a budget...so I thought what can I use to make a split rail fence cheaply.

It just so0 happened that day my wife grilled out and made kabobs after eating a few I was ready to throw the skewers away and it hit me. Wow these things would make a great split rail fen!

So I cut some of these skewers about an inch and a half for the posts then hot glued them to the area I wanted fenced in about 5 and a half inches apart then added the rails to them, two rails per section. 

After they set up I painted them with some paint I had and wouldn't you know it just so happens the paint I had was called hickory the fence turned out amazing and you can get bamboo skewers at any store for $1.00 for about a 100 try it if you need a rustic looking fence youll be amazed how it looks for almost nothing in cost" 

Mike has an unusual question to ask others in the hobby:

“I am working on a project for my club, a corner module actually. Would it be more believable to have Hobos rural around a secluded campfire with trees or trackside where they could be in view of the trains and where they could easily hop on and hop off?”

I’m sure everyone will have an opinion. Please add your thoughts below.

John asks reader:

“Hi this is for all you scenery experts out there. Can someone tell me how to make a curving road up a mountain? I have a few sections of my layout that are above the main section. I need to get roads up to them. Can someone help me on this”

Add your thoughts below.

Here’s just one of the many tips from the Online Model Train Club.

When you look observantly around streets you notice a an assortment of manhole covers and drain grates. There are probably more than you thought there would be – they seem to be everywhere. The surprising thing is that few in the hobby include them on their layouts.

You can buy them and they are relatively inexpensive. As an example; Langley Models sell various drain road manhole covers, grates and inspection chamber covers. They are brass (so are strong), and there are several on a sheet, and they are easy to paint. Durango Press also make some, and you can even buy cheaper self adhesive types.

The brass type is easy to fix in place. I paint the manhole covers first (neutral gray) and then glue them in place. For drain covers, I carve or drill out a small hollow a fraction smaller than the size of the drain cover. It only needs to be about 1mm deep. I paint the inside of the hollow black and then glue the drain cover in place. Avoid getting the glue stuck between the slots in the drain cover.