Try the new ZOOM tool to have a close-up view of these photo realistic model railroad buildings.

Watch this short video if you are thinking about constructing some model buildings for your layout.

Enjoy!

Local freights are also known as peddlers and way freights. Their prime responsibility is to drop certain cars off and pick certain cars up at different towns. So local freights usually make a stop at every town and perform their respective task. When compared to fast freight, thorough freight and passenger trains, local freights are relegated to a second class status. This means that if one of the three trains mentioned above is on the track, then the local freight has to make way for them to pass first before it can carry on with its operations.

This photo shows a consist of HO scale freight wagons stationed in front of some industrial storage warehouses. The scale buildings have been constructed from corflute in low relief and are glued to a photographic backdrop. Corflute is what waterproof real estate signs are made from and can be purchased for under $10 for a very large sheet (makes several buildings) from a DIY store.

The plans for these model railroad buildings can be downloaded here.

When you consider the cost of buying locomotives, construction products like foam board and corflute are incredibly cheap to buy. A huge sheet of corflute (like they use on real estate signs) cost less than $10 at a local DIY store and was large enough to construct several model buildings. What’s more, the material is very strong and very easy to work with.

This video shows how to use corflute board for constructing a model railroad building.

The plan in this video can be downloaded here.

This short demo shows step by step how to make a model railroad building suitable as a farm barn building or as a factory warehouse. Enjoy!

http://www.modelbuildings.org/Factory-Farm-Building-B443.html

Model railroading can be a bit of a juggling act especially if you are limited for space as most of us are. Every inch of space is particularly important on an industrial switching shelf layout, many of which are only 18 inches to 2 foot in depth. Maximizing the space can usually be achieved with careful selection and placement of appropriate buildings, structures and scenery.

Although the plan on the left might look okay, there are better space saving solutions. Read the full article.

Most model railroads try to reflect real life whether it is a present day scene or a moment in time from the 1970’s, 1960’s, 1950’s or even earlier. Regardless of what era is being modeled, the people of the time needed places to live and shop. That’s why a street scene with people and vehicles rarely looks out of place on a model railroad layout. Trouble is; street scenes can take up a lot of space unless they are positioned against a backdrop, or at the edge of the layout. Putting them against a backdrop is often a great option as it allows more space for other scenery or track and gives the impression the scenery stretches further than is does. Below is a new series of 7 low relief houses that are perfect for placement against a backdrop.

http://www.modelbuildings.org/low-relief-buildings-D.html

Another new series is this set of 6 shops with upstairs accommodation. These shops come with 12 different shop signs so you can change the signage to suit your railroad.

http://www.modelbuildings.org/low-relief-buildings-E.html

These buildings are easy to download and construct using foam core sheets or core flute (both are cheap to buy in big sheets at a DIY store). The downloadable plans come with easy to follow instructions. The website includes a special ZOOM tool so you can see the fine detailing closeup.

This quick video demonstrates how easy it is to construct an industrial warehouse building in low relief.

There is no need to paint or weather the building as that is already done for you, so that’s a saving in time and money.

The plan can be downloaded at http://www.modelbuildings.org/Low-Relief-Buildings-B.html where you can see a close image of the fine detailing.

The building can also be purchased as part of a BIG BUNDLE deal at http://www.modelbuildings.org/big-bundle-deal-2.html (SAVING 66% off the regular price).

If you have a photo of this, or one of the other model buildings in the series, positioned on your layout then we would love to publish it to show others. Send details and your email address using this link http://www.model-railroad-resources.com/train-tips.html

Just released  is a series 6 new low relief houses to build. They are really easy to assemble using foam core or core flute from a local art store or hardware DIY. I paid less than $10 for a giant sheet and it made several buildings. They are extremely sturdy and very realistically weathered. Each building is less than $10, but right now if you buy all 6 you pay only $19.95 (a 49% SAVINGS) Here is the link to the special offer http://www.modelbuildings.org/low-relief-buildings-C.html

Right now there are several multi-pack specials all under $20 (saving from 35% to 48% off the normal price) and a couple of BIG BUMPER PACK deals for just $47 (saving up to 67%!!!).

Here is the link to a couple of BIG BUMPER PACK deals to give you an idea

http://www.modelbuildings.org/big-bundle-deal-1.html

http://www.modelbuildings.org/big-bundle-deal-2.html

Simon Stanton sent in this idea to share:

“Here’s an idea for constructing bridges across rivers and valleys. Use a curtain rod to make metal girders for the sides of a steel bridge. I use those curtain rods with an “I” shaped cross-section. I find a hacksaw best for cutting the rods to the right length. I then fill in braces using styrene or wood. Later I spray paint the assembly dark gray or black. I have found this type of bridge construction to be really sturdy. The other advantage is the spans can reach further without bending.”

Add your comment.

Sometimes it only takes one thing to look artificial, or out of place, for the whole layout to lose its character and authentic look. It’s often the little details that draw the viewer into the scene to convince them it is real (or at least an extremely good scale replica). Fact is; vegetation and structures can help or hinder the overall perception of reality.

Is this a photo of a real warehouse building, or is it a scale model? See answer below.

The grass, trees, weeds, and bushes all need to look natural as if they were growing out in the wild. Bright colors can have a place such as in a Fall (Autumn) scene, but generally vivid colors need to be used sparingly, as they can over-power a scene or make the vegetation look unnatural.

Structures also need to look as if they have been exposed to climatic conditions. Although not everything needs to look old or worn, indications of natural weathering or usage can give buildings and bridges and authentic appearance, as opposed to a plastic look. Various weathering techniques such as chalk and India washes can add amazing realism when skillfully applied.

Another option is to buy structures that are pre-weathered or ones that already include realistic detailing. It may surprise you to know the frontage of the building pictured here, is in fact a model. I’m sure you’ll agree, it looks just like the kind of warehouse you would expect to see in an industrial area servicing a railroad.

To have a close-up look at the detailing go to http://www.modelbuildings.org/Low-Relief-Buildings-B.html  Then run your mouse over the small image on that page and it will enlarge so you can view the detailing up close.

Rogers asks others in the hobby:

“I would like to know the best kind of light inside old pre-1900 style HO buildings to simulate lamplight. Would yellow be the best?”

Post your thoughts.

Positioning buildings in front of the background scenery (or backdrop) can give the impression the layout is bigger than it actually is. When done well, the distant scenery can appear go on forever. Trees or a road disappearing behind a hill can give a similar effect.

This quick video shows an easy way to construct a building in low relief. The building can be made with 3 sides and a roof, or just attach the front directly onto the backdrop. The construction material is either core flute or foam core… both are available from a hardware store. A big sheet will probably cost you less than $10 and make lots of buildings. Also remember, because the building will probably be positioned in the background, you could make it smaller than the scale you are operating.

The plan is one of a series of six available from http://www.modelbuildings.org/Low-Relief-Buildings-B.html

There are all kinds of ways to approach the construction of this model railroad office building structure. The first thing is to decide what scale you want to use. The plan is in PDF format which you print on your home printer, so you just scale it to meet your needs – HO scale, OO gauge, N scale etc.

The next thing is to decide if you want to assemble it in full 3D with all sides visible. The other option is to make it as a low relief building for positioning against a wall on a backdrop. That way you could just construct the building frontage (1 side), or maybe construct the frontage and part of 2 sides and part of the roof.

The third thing to consider is what construction method you prefer. The building can be made very strong by just using card such as an old cornflakes pack. You can strengthen the corners if you wish, but it is optional. The other method is to use foam core board or core flute board, both of which are very rigid and available cheaply from a hardware DIY store.

This plan is available from http://www.modelbuildings.org/office-building-B424.html

Add your suggestions.

Most of us will at some time have watched the movie “Bridge on the River Kwai.”

Jim is planning to recreate the bridge in his model railroad and asks:

“I remember when the movie Bridge on the River Kwai was released. There was a copy of the model of the bridge on the river kawi in HO scale. I would like to incorporate a copy of this bridge in either HO or N scale. Can anyone offer some suggestions?”

The whistling tune from the movie will bring back memories for many. The words to the original song were adapted by the British POW’s but I can’t publish them here as they are somewhat rude.

Add your comment and when approved by the blog moderator (censor), it will be published.

Huge grain elevators where a one time reasonably commonplace across parts of the US and Canada. Some were positioned near the water’s edge ready for canal and lake freighters to load. Other older style grain elevators can still be seen in fields, most completely abandoned and often in a dilapidated state. Many have been replaced by modern versions that have more capacity and operate more efficiently. Whether you choose an older style model or a more modern grain elevator design, a grain elevator can be a interesting addition to a model railroad. It can be a a focal point or be used to add height, character, and function to a layout.

In basic terms a grain elevator is a very tall tower with a pneumatic conveyor or bucket elevator system to move the grain to the silo or storage area. These days they are constructed with more durable materials (reinforced concrete and steel), so are less prone to fire than were the old timber silos. The grain is emptied from the silo, usually weighed and blended, ready for transportation by rail, truck, or barge to a flour mill, distillery, a grain wholesaler, or for export.

Watch this short demonstration on hold to build a model grain elevator. The plan is available from http://www.modelbuildings.org/Grain-Elevator-B428.html