This very real looking engine shed can be made using foam core (or core flute) both available cheaply from a local hardware store. You can also use an old cereal pack instead (as demonstrated in this quick video). It will still be very strong and is just as easy to construct. Get the plan from http://www.modelbuildings.org/engine-shed-B435.html

The video also shows some different ways to make windows for model buildings.

Since the early days of the steam locomotive, the convergence of railroad crossings and roads have always posed potential dangers to human life. These days, thanks to technology, many railroad crossings have sophisticated barrier arrangements to protect, vehicles, trains and people from colliding. That is not to say they are perfect, as some people still seem to ignore the danger not understanding that locomotives can’t pull up and stop as quickly as road vehicles .

However, prior to the invention of modern automated crossing barrier protections, busier railroad crossings were typically managed by a flagman whose job it was to stop the road traffic if and when a train approached. This was an important job, but often the waiting time between trains was lengthy. The flagman therefore required a place to rest up.

The little shed/hut for this was called a crossing shanty, which was usually positioned near to the tracks so that the flagman could be ready to jump into action whenever a train approached. The crossing shanty was a place where the flagman could rest, and keep dry and warm. Compared to some other railroad jobs the task was not considered overly strenuous so was sometimes assigned to employees with injuries or those requiring light duties.

This short film clip show construction of a model railroad crossing shanty. The plan is available here http://www.modelbuildings.org/crossing-shanty-B438.html

Here’s an interesting idea.

Mike sent in these photos to share. He downloaded some low relief building plans for his model railroad layout and decided to also make an extra copy and glue them onto an artist canvas panel. The ready-made artist canvas panel cost him $12.95.

He painted it in trendy colors and glued the low relief buildings onto the painted panel. He then hung the finished artwork (like a 3D painting) on the wall above his layout.

Malcolm got the low relief buildings from http://www.modelbuildings.org

Low relief buildings are simply buildings that have only 1, 2 , or 3 sides. When placed directly in front of a background they give the impression of being complete 3D structures. This can save a lot of space and give the impression the model railroad stretches much further into the distant landscape than is the case. Construction low relief buildings is surprisingly easy when you know how. These short videos will show you the simple step by step process.

Constructing Low Relief Model Railroad Buildings – Part 1

Having low relief buildings positioned against a wall or backdrop can really give a model railroad a sense of perspective and trick the mind into believing the model railroad scene is bigger than it actually is.

You can download the PDF plans for this model railroad street scene at http://www.modelbuildings.org/low-relief-buildings.html They can easily be scaled to the size you want, but remember you might want to make them a bit smaller than the scale you are operating as the buildings will probably be in the distance.

Constructing Low Relief Model Railroad Buildings – Part 2

A quick look around any real railroad or port will show a range of shipping containers stacked on trains, in yards, on ships, and on wharves. They will probably vary greatly in appearance as some will be reasonably new and others will be old and rusty perhaps with scrapes, dents, and even graffiti plastered all over them.

You might even spot some old shipping containers used to store goods on an industrial site or on a farm. This is because old shipping containers are relatively inexpensive to buy, they can be made very secure, and they are very easily modified (inside). That is why is can be an excellent idea to include scaled down shipping containers on a model railroad layout. They will add character and realism to any scene.

This short video shows the easy way to make model shipping containers that look extremely real. After downloading the PDF file you can print out any number you require.

http://www.modelbuildings.org/shipping-containers-B430.html

I’m sure you’ll agree that this scale model church looks very authentic and would fit nicely on most model railroads if the scene allows for it. Of course not every model railroad has a town, but most do. Watch this short video to see how it take shape from start to finish.It can be constructed in OO scale, in HO scale, or in N scale, or Z scale.

Have a go constructing this model church and send in a photo to have it published on the blog.

The plans can be downloaded from http://www.modelbuildings.org/church-B423.html

If you are looking for industries to model, chances are that you already have a railway route map in mind or you are just randomly doing this. It doesn’t matter what your plans are, the best way to find industries to model is using Google Map to locate the locations and get an aerial view of the railway layout in the area so that you can create the place as it is. Google maps will give you a 3D impression and better understanding on the depth of field, which is essential in creating models. The second step is to get some photographs online to closely inspect every detail of the industry and recreate it with ideal materials.

Many model railroad layouts feature a marshaling yard, mainline and branch line, maybe a harbor (with train ferry) and perhaps a town, an industry or two and some countryside or a river and mountains. The possibilities are endless. However, one thing most model railroads have in common is at least one or more engine sheds for locomotive storage and maintenance. This quick video shows a simple, inexpensive way to build an engine shed for your model trains. I comes in a concrete finish or a metal sheet finish. The http://www.modelbuildings.org/Engine-Shed-Workshop-B436.html website also has another engine shed design to choose from if you want to add more than one to your layout.

Steve asks readers this question:

“I am building a new N scale layout and want to include new york city like subway system, one that goes above and below ground . I have it all worked out except for realistic looking support for the elevated section. I have seen decal rivets to be added but no supports for the track in N scale. I have seen it in HO scale but not N scale. Does anyone have a suggestion as it is holding me up at this point, please help?”

Add your suggestions to help Steve.

This realistic looking barn with grain silo can be built in HO scale, OO scale, N scale, or in fact to any scale your want. These models look very authentic with much of the clever weathering techniques already done (although you can still add your own). They are a lot of fun to build and you can make as many as you want (for your own use) after downloading the plan. Have a go – you’ll enjoy making this barn and grain silo.

Click here to download this model railroad building plan.

Ed wants advice from others in the hobby and asks:

“I have been trying to decal a concrete ice House, Walthers Cornerstone, Building. I have used decal set, micro sol and still cannot get the decal to lay flat over the building detail. Am I asking too much for it to lay down on the raised concrete seam? Or did I do something wrong or didn’t do something.”

Brian sent in these ideas:

Scratch building steel bridges can prove challenging and if you don’t want to give it a go there numerous commercial bridges available to choose from. Some bridges are ready built and others come in kit form to assemble.

I can be a good idea to design and build bridges before assembling the baseboard. Adding a tall viaduct may require a deeper baseboard to accommodate it.

I prefer to construct these structures on my sub-base which I can later properly affix to the baseboard. I like to paint it and add my detailing then lay the track. I even finish off the scenery surrounding the structure as I find this easier to finish at my workbench.

As a rule I include thin plywood lip at each end of the track-bed which helps me accurately attach the adjacent track-bed.

To see more ideas from Brian, watch the video at http://www.modelrailwayscenery.org/scenery2.html

Claude has a question for readers:

“I am looking for a source of patterned styrene siding for metal bldgs. I have checked Plastrut and all they have is a corrugated metal profile. Evergreen only has a grooved sheet. Metal bldgs now-a-days have a raised 2  rib on 12  centers. I am wondering what others use to realistically model this type of metal siding. Thanks for any suggestions.”

Comment below.

Lee asks:

“I am trying to model a railroad in a tropical setting. Most of the structures for HO gauge modeling have brick structures with casement windows. I have not been able to find any windows like I need. The louver windows are narrow glass blades that are 4″ wide and 24″ or 36″ or more in length with 10 or 12 louvers per window in the real world. Does anyone know of someone who sells such HO gauge windows? Building my own would be very tedious!”

Add your suggestions.

Detailing and weather can really add authenticity to a scene.

I always use flat (not glossy) acrylic paints for painting structures. The trick is to paint the parts (either with an airbrush or using a paint brush) BEFORE installing them. This is really important, because most adhesives will prevent the paint from sticking, or the washes from soaking in.

It is easier to paint a structure before assembling or installing it in place. You shouldn’t have to lean over your layout to paint a structure as this is uncomfortable and will result in a messy job. It is easier and neater to assemble pieces after they are painted.

Usually start by painting the lightest colors first, before painting the darker colors.  It is generally easier to touch up lighter colors with darker tones, rather than the other way around. However, in saying that, there are exceptions to the rule. Thin washes of light paint colors can sometimes add an excellent weathered look when applied over dark colors. I have seen this done on the sides of rolling stock wagons and on brick walls where thinned washes of light browns and light reds are applied over black paint.

The online Model Train Club has a section on Detailing & Weathering as well as a section on Building Structures, and another on Making Scenery. Watch the 3 new videos.

A little trick I use is to apply some paint on an old rag and then drag the strip-wood through your fingers while holding the rag. This can give the effect of well aged paint.