John has kindly contributed this tip.

In a recent Tip we learned from Robert Anderson about saving space by having spur tracks and/or a hill leading to a large industry that is out of view and not really on the layout. Another way of doing this is to use building fronts. It takes a bit more space, but the front of the industry is the only part actually there, with the spur tracks leading off to the back of the industry. Most “shake-the-box” kits can be used, and store fronts are also very good for this purpose. But as this part of the structure is directly at the edge of your layout, paint the inside of the structure flat black so anyone viewing your trains  from the back will not be distracted.  

Andrew will like some advice from other railroaders and asks:

“Hi guys, I have an 8/4 layout structured on a rural plan. I already have a station, lumber yard, campsite, beach, lake etc. My question is what should I get next for buildings in a small rural community? Thanks for your help”

Add your suggestion below.

A reader has sent in this idea:

"I have tried filament (too thin) and jelly cord (too thick and puts tension on the queen posts - its is a nice black color), and now I am using music wire which works wonders. Make a pattern and then lay it on a board, put nails where the bends are to be and bend the wire around them. Each truss rod comes out the same."

Comment below. 

Patrick a keen member of my online model train club sent in this tip:

“Here’s a budget idea that turns out well. Take an ordinary tin can – you know the type with the fine corrugated ribs in the middle. Be careful doing this to avoid cutting yourself (have a medic handy!). You cut off both ends of the can and then you cut the metal from top to bottom. You will end up with a rectangular piece of metal which you need to flatten out without it buckling.

You don’t need to flatten it completely, just enough to use it for a pattern. Then get some aluminum kitchen foil and cut off a piece a little bit bigger than the size of metal you want in your finished project.

The next thing is to lay the foil over the ribs in the flattened metal can and using a thin stick you press the foil down into the grooves of the tin can. This is how I make authentic looking corrugated metal roofing, especially if you add some weathering to age it.”

Here is just one of the hundreds of useful tips inside the members area of my online Model Train Club. This one is supplied by Samuel who has been a member for 10 months.

Over the past 6 years I have done a lot of scratchbuilding of houses and buildings. I have tried using cardboard, balsa-wood and even styrene. Although I like working with balsa it is not always as strong as I would like it to be.

A friend gave me some double-sided printed-circuit board and it was perfect. I cut it using a guillotine as it was so strong. It was easy to solder pieces together. He gave me heaps of offcuts for free. I could still incorporate some balsa as it easily glued to the circuit board. I used my soldering iron to add some stonework effects. The buildings I now make with circuit board are almost indestructible.

Lots of very experienced model railroaders are members of the online club and share their ideas with other members. If you are not already a member – Join the online model train club today.

Frank is looking for advice from anyone who has experience building scenery and structures:

“On a large HO layout I want to use an old grist mill with a dam and running water over a water wheel. #1 I’m concerned the water may have a corrosive problem for the train? Will it? #2 Is there a good substitute for water without the problem of corrison. Forgot to mention I would like to add a waterfall (apprx 12- 15″) close to the mill site. Thanks.”

Add your answer or suggestion to help Frank.

James asks readers for help. Please use the comments link below this posting if you can assist James:

“I would like to build 3D back drop buildings for my N scale layout and would like to know the best tool to cut the side part of the building in half with little waste and a fine smooth cut.”

I screwed the lids to the layout which meant I could easily remove the tanks at any time by just pulling them out from the lids (which stayed fixed to the layout base). I painted the tins and applied some graphics I printed out from the internet. However before I printed them out I used my computer graphics program to add a couple of ladders and some rivets to the design. They look so authentic.

Steve has a question for readers:

“I am trying to put a coaling station in my layout,which by the way is 8 ft by 3ft wide. How much room do I need for the incline onto it? Also, how much on the other side of it do I need to have? By the way, my layout is made to be moved, so is it modular? Each board is 24 inches wide.”

Readers can comment on Steve’s question by using the green comments link below.

Steve will be interested to know there is a bonus report called “Confessions Of A Mobile Layout Builder” as part of the new Scenery And Layout Construction Ideas e-book package.

Paul wants advice on building walls:

“Some years ago I bought a railway depot in France and although new to model railways I am trying to scratch build the area as authentically as possible but am having problems building walls – Can anyone suggest a good thorough reference or book dealing with this subject? Scenery building perhaps.”

Add your suggestions below.

Ian has a comment and question on coal stations. Perhaps readers would like to share their views on the subject. Use the comments link below this posting.

“Why did the German railways use such a clumsy way of replenishing their coaling stations? According to all the model makers, the coal was delivered in gondolas/open wagons. Plucked out by a crane with a clamshell scoop, then dropped into the overhead coaling station. The dregs would need to be scraped up with shovels. Australian/British/US stations were easier to load: a long ramp to drop the coal straight in from hopper cars, or a hoist which ran up the back.”

Mike has a question for anyone with experience in oo gauge tunnel and bridge building:

“In oo gauge, what are the tunnel and bridge safe heights?”

Add your suggestions below.

David plans to build a new layout and wants advice. I presume he has used the free Google Maps service in his initial planning? Here is what David has to say:

“I am gathering information for a new model railway layout and am going to base it on Ashford International in Kent UK. I have tried one company on the internet but only received a standard reply with none of the listings included Ashford.

Having spoken to Stanfords OS mapping service and obtained a screen print, I am not convinced they will show all the detail I need at 1:1250 and the number of standard A4 sheets needed it will work out to be quite a lot of money.

Can someone recommend any companies that would talk to me about this or supply plans. In fact would the rail track company have original plans that one could purchase. Where does the detailed track information come from?”

Readers can offer suggestions below.