Structures
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Steepest Rate of Incline on Bridge
Bob wants help from readers and asks:
“I have a limited area for my model set up of 8×9 feet. I want to add an incline to a bridge and would like to know what the steepest rate of incline can be over the shortest distance and still work properly?”
Comment below.
HO Track Spacing and N Scale Houses
Two readers are hoping someone can guide them.
Bill asks:
“When running two HO tracks side by side how much space should I leave between them?”
Pat asks:
“Where can I get an n scale house built from a picture I have? I have a small budget. Thank you in advance.”
Use the green comments link below to answer one or both of these questions.
How To Build Scratch Built Buildings
Laurie wants to share his experience scratch building structures using wall plaster. Here is what Laurie has to say:
I have been a scratch builder of many years. I started at the age of eight, and I’m now eighty four.
I started before WW2, using s fret saw. I made many models out of an old Tea chest. After serving in the war I didn’t really take scratch building seriously until 1951 when I went into Model Railways for my sons.
Since then we have built 5 layouts, largest 6feet by 10 feet, but they have left home now and with a 6X4layout I go it alone, with visits from my grandchildren and great grandchildren. I’ve just purchased and read your Model Train Help E Book, which I found most interesting.
Here is my explanation of Stone type modeling with pictures of some of the models I’ve made using this method.
You can scratch model buildings and walls to give the Stone type effect by using Powdered Poly filler, or powder wall plaster.
Before you start building you need a plan of your building, I first take a photos at different angles of the building I want to model, then sketches are made of the parts you need for the building.
First you need to cut out the building walls to the Railway gauge size you are using, (I work in the 00 gauge, 1:76.2), also cut out the window and door openings.
From hard board, (use the rough side), Balsa wood or a thick Cardboard, (no less than 1/8 thickness), something the plaster will adhere to.
Next, make up window and door frames, and glue these onto the out side of the of the board, also at this stage add a fascia boards to take any guttering, (don’t forget outside chimney breast), glue the sides together forming the shape of the building. You may need to put inner walls at this stage, or Corner formers to strengthen the building.
Once the building has stuck and can be handled, mixed up some poly filler (plaster) to a sticky paste (not to wet). Spread this over the wall sides to the thickness of your window & door frames, then without the Wife, Partner or Mother knowing, go into the kitchen and get the “Kitchen Foil wrap”.
Cut this to the shape of the walls allowing a bit extra around the outside edges, crumple it up so it is well creased, flatten it out & press lightly onto the damp plaster, then leave to dry.
Once dry, (properly next day), peel the foil of, you should be left with a stone looking wall, clean off the edges and any spare plaster that has crept over your frames etc:, you can then if you wish mark out the stones with a pointed tool, or you may leave it as it is & just paint it the stone color you want. Next paint the door and window frames, & when dry you can add you Perspex for you windows, curtains doors etc.
You then need a roof, this can be made to your board type your using, covered with Tiling paper, or I have found the back side of hardboard has a etched markings on it that when painted a dark red looks realistic, or with plenty of time and patience, put a layer of plaster on the roof, smooth it out nice and flat, then when dry, mark out a slated type roof.
Photo above shows a Goods Shed. (Point of interest, is the lamp over the main double door is from the stem holder of a British Legion Remembrance Poppy, making use of thinks around you).
If you are making an Elizabethan or Georgian type building, when putting in the frames adds you beans, balsa wood is good for this, remembering the plaster is smooth between the rafters. Don’t forget outside fittings such as down pipes, guttering, chimney’s etc.
This a country Public House & has lights (photo above).
If you are making walls of the stone type use the same method, rapping the foil over the top of the wall covering both sides, when dry remember some of these walls have the top layer of stones vertical. If you need bends in the wall, I suggest you use card board for the wall so that you can bend it to shape, and I found it best to glue the shaped card board to a card base so that it maintains its shape, before adding the plaster.
Any matt paint can be used but I have found acrylic best. Lot of patience is needed but I have found that the results have been very satisfying.
This Church has lights and a module for a peel of Church Bells up.
Thanks to Laurie for this excellent contribution. I’m sure others in the hobby will benefit greatly from his ideas. It would be great if others in the hobby would contribute ideas as I know there many regular readers who have considerable experience in the hobby and could be of tremendous assistance to others in the hobby.
Click here to contribute your ideas or share details about your model train layout
Constructing Balsawood Buildings
Pieter wants to buy some plans for constructing buildings and wonders if readers have a supplier they can recommend:
“I am interested in constructing my own buildings using balsa wood (as I know it in South Africa) and then covering it various with printed designs. Can one of your readers perhaps advise me where I can purchase construction plans of various buildings that I can download to work from?”
As regular readers will be aware this blog does not list buy, sell or swap second-hand items, however readers are encouraged to recommend suppliers who sell reliable products.
Kitset Structures
John wants to hear from readers regarding their opinions on structure kits. Obviously many in the hobby scratchbuild their structures and others prefer to buy kitset models. John asks:
“Who makes the best structure kits as far as detail, realistic look and price?”
If readers would like to give their opinions then please use the green comments link to do so.
Tunnel Construction Made Quick And Easy
Geof has very kindly agreed to share this idea for tunnel construction with readers:
Picture #1: This is a shot of the materials you’ll need for this project. The stapler OR the glue can be used to attach the liner to the layout table. I prefer the stapler myself but if the tunnel is already in place, you may have to use the glue instead.
I have come up with a quick and easy method of construction that yields a great visual result for any scale with less effort. The technique I am going to describe is best when used on tunnels currently under construction although it can be used on existing tunnels but it is a little difficult to install.
To start, go to your local grocery or household discount store and purchase some heavy duty disposable cookie trays or sheet pans (aluminum foil in the roll form is too flimsy). A sheet pan that is 12″ x 18″ should yield about six linings in HO scale, 8 or more in N Scale and at least two in O gauge.
Next, get the INSIDE measurement of the portal and its sides. I use a flexible measuring tape for doing this. A single track N scale portal arch is about five inches, other scales or portal types would be longer. Whatever this measurement is add at LEAST another inch. This extra amount will act as ‘feet’ to mount the lining.
Using using a pair of utility scissors, cut the foil into strips as wide as the measurement you got from the step above. The lining length (or depth) is up to you. Seven inches is a good length for N scale. If the portal is on a high location on your layout where people can look down it, you may want to extend this for better effect.
Next, gently crumple the foil to give the illusion of blasted rock. The tighter you crumple it, the more creases will form so, again, it is up to you how much of this you want. Avoid crumpling the foil too much because it may be difficult to straighten it out for the next step.
Once you are happy with the crumple effect, flatten the foil out and then curl it into an arch that roughly matches the shape of the portal. Next, fold the outside edges of the lining (about 1/2 inch worth) outward to make ‘feet’ that run the length of the lining on both sides. When looked at from the front, it should look like the Greek letter omega ( like this -> Ω ). These feet are used to attach the foil lining to the layout’s surface so it won’t shift about.
Next, using a spray paint that is similar in color to you layout’s mountain (although it doesn’t have to be exact), spray the inside of the lining with a few coats of paint (I use gray primer).
Once the paint is dry, place the lining in position behind the portal itself, making sure it is pressing up against the inside back face of the portal. Run a few trains though, particularly those with long engines or passenger cars to make sure that there is enough clearance and nothing hits. Once you are satisfied with the positioning, either staple or glue the lining feet to your table top. Run a train through once again just to be sure the lining didn’t shift.
This method also works for curved track coming out of tunnels but installation is a bit different. Once you have the lining arch and feet formed, cut the arch in half the long way, that is along the lining roof. You should now have two pieces that look almost like the letter ” J “. Using the scissors, make 1/2” cuts along the lining feet every inch or so. This will allow you to bend the lining to roughly match the radius of the curve.
The more slits or cuts you make will make the lining easier to bend. You may have to use this slit method along the top edge of the lining as well to prevent buckling. Don’t be too concerned with how the top of the lining looks since in most cases it will be out of sight anyway.
I hope this tip, albeit a long one, comes in handy for some of you out there.
>>> On behalf of readers, thanks Geof for your contribution.
If others would like to send in their clever ideas or tips for publication please use the form at http://www.model-railroad-resources.com/my-layout.html
You can also comment on Geof’s idea by using the green Comments link below this posting. After clicking the link you need to register (if you haven’t yet done so). It is quick and easy (takes about 2 minutes), and then you can participate in future model train discussions.
Mortar Between Bricks On A Structure
Ron wants to hear from anyone who know about coloring brick mortar on model railroad scenery and asks readers:
“I’ve never undertaken the application of mortar between brick on a structure and need some tips from those in the know! Is there a practical way to color the bricks before applying the mortar? “
If you think you know the answer use the green comments link below Ron’s posting and post your reply.
Tunnel Portals and Building Doors and Windows
Charles has a question for readers relating to different scales:
“How can I figure out the size of HO – O & G scale buildings doors, windows and walls etc. and also tunnel portals? Also, is there a scale ruler I can use?”
I hope Charles is not mixing his scales as that could look a bit strange. However, if you can help Charles, use the green comments link below to add your thoughts.
Scratch Built Crossing
Here is something really interesting. Subhash is a keen model railroading enthusiast from India, but the problem is train supplies are expensive and hard to get. So, Subhash not only manufactures his own rolling stock, he also builds his own track.
When you think about it, most of us would never dream of scratch building track, let alone a locomotive. We simply go out and buy it. So, Subhash is to be congratulated for his efforts and persistence. He is an inspiration to us all!
Subhash tells me his whole train layout is scratch built including scratch built tracks and crossings. He has made dies for sleepers, and aluminium strips for tracks. Subhash admits it is difficult as he has to search hard to get the raw materials.
Subhash builds to TT scale because he says you get more space work in TT than HO.
For the tracks Subhash has used Aluminum sheets 4ft x 8ft, gauge 1mm, trimmed in 3mm height. He creates rails of 3mm x 8ft. He has also made a die for sleepers for HO & TT now he can make as many sections of track as he wants.
Subhash uses normal tools as he doesn’t have any high end tools. He just uses whatever tools he has available at home. He says if you have diagrams the track is easy to build. And, the important thing is; the track and the trains work!
Subhash has two locos and some passenger carriages, different kind of wagons, a caboose, and two suburban EMU trains and all are scratch built. I’m sure you’ll agree they look very authentic.
I’m sure Subhash would welcome your comments and questions. Click on the green comments link, register and then add your feedback.
16 Year Old Needs Help With Layout Landscape And Ballasting
Sixteen year old Adam needs some help and ecouragement from others in the hobby and asks:
“Hi, Iwas planning my layout and I have got no idea how to ballast or landscaping at all. I went to a model show a few days ago and watched a fellow modeller landscape but not ballast he used some specialling builder’s plaster but I don’t know what it is called. Its seem pretty simple to landscape but I have had many tries ballasting and I just can’t get it right.
All my locos keep derailing on it. Would any one be able to help me?”
To help Adam you can add feedback using the green comments link below.
The Model Train Help Ebook has many good pointers on landscaping and track ballasting.
Scratch Built Brick Wall
Martin wants to build a brick wall on his RR layout and asks readers for help:
“Can someone tell me how to make a scratch built brick wall please?”
To guide Martin click on the green comments link and add your feedback.
Scratchbuilding A Turntable
Maritz wants to hear from anyone who has scratchbuilt a turntable:
“Is there any modeler that can help me with plans for a turntable in HO scale. I can’t find any on the internet. I would like to scratch build my own turntable from wood. Any plans can help, doesn’t matter how complete. Your help will be appreciated.”
Suggestions from readers can be posted using the green comments link below.
Model Train Videos Prove Popular
Thank you for the excellent feedback on my series of model train videos – I’m glad people are enjoying them.
If you haven’t already had a look at the free sample video you can access it here http://www.model-train-help.com/sample-video.html
Here is some info on a couple of videos in the 42 model train video series:
Video #17. Electrics Explained
In this video clip, James explains the control panel he built to control various points on his layout including the signals. He shows you how he has motorized all the turnouts on the main tracks and why he’s left all the other turnouts, such as the interchange, as manual throw turnouts. James has used different methods to attach the turnouts depending on their location on the layout and shows how he has mounted the DCC system under his baseboard.
After a quick tour James explains how to measure the track voltage and how to reduce the voltage to prevent decoders from overheating or failing. He then shows you step-by-step how to build a ‘diode matrix’ set.
Video #23. Making Scenery Foliage
Florist foam is an inexpensive, versatile material to use when making foliage and groundcover for your model railroad layout. Watch how to go about it step-by-step. Then, see a demonstration of applying ‘dried moss’ as foliage. It is so easy when you know how!
The model train video series is available at http://www.model-train-help.com/member-only-videos.html
Lighting a Building On A RR Layout
Jim has a question for readers on lighting a window in a building on his layout:
“I have two model railroading problems to overcome. Firstly, I have a building on my layout that I want to be a showroom. I am making a rv showroom. I want to put several campers inside. I am wanting a big picture window. I have not seen any kind of window frame that will work. Secondly, if I get a window that works I want to put a light inside that wont bleed thru the plastic. Any sugestions from other in the RR hobby would be appreciated.”
To give your feedback click on the green comments link below.
Constructing Tunnels and Different Levels On A Model Railroad Layout
Larry is new to model railroading and would like to hear from experienced model railroaders before he starts his construction project:
“I am building a dedicated ‘train room’ in a new retirement property in Colorado and am a RR novice although the core of my set up will be a 55 yr old Lionel set gifted me in 1952. I need real guidance from a reader on how to build the basic infrastructure that will lead to tunnels and different levels. Thank you in advance.”
To guide Larry click on the green comments link below.
Modeling HO, 1970-1990’s era Skyscapers and City Scene On RR Layout
Jim has a cityscape on his RR layout and would like to hear from anyone who has some experience adding tall buildings:
“I am modeling in HO, 1970-1990’s era, and have a large city on the RR layout. I am having trouble finding buildings that would resemble a skyscraper ( I am looking for 12-15 stories). A few years ago I found a Bachmann Spectrum series structure that was perfect, but I want more than one on the layout and they don’t seem to make those anymore. Does anyone in the hobby know of a realtively inexpensive but nice looking source of structures? If so, where? Thanks.”
To comment click on the green comments link below.
Stucco HO Structure
A reader ask for your advice or suggestions for creating a stucco look on buildings:
“I understand you can use Durhams rock hard water putty to stucco a building. Has anyone done this and what is the procedure as far as mix and getting the stucco look?”
If you have experience in this area and would like to help out this fellow model railroader, add your comments using the green comments link below this posting.
Scratchbuilt Buildings On John’s Layout
John has sent in these photos and information for publication.
At 77 years of age my wife and I are working on our first model railway layout. It does not attempt to follow any real railway system but is being made up as we go. While it is possible to purchase kit set buildings etc. we decided there would be more fun in manufacturing our own, so apart from a couple exceptions everything you see we have made. We are running Marklin HO rolling stock for no other reason than one of my relatives had some parts stored in his attic.
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