Derek asks readers:

“I have a Hornby Flying Scotsman it has been in its box from new 1970’s but it will not run on. The wheels stick as you rotate the main wheels joined by running gear. All wheels run free when the unattached motor is good when run separate. Any suggestions would be great would like to see this one run.”

To help Derek add your comments below.

Andy asks readers:

“My HO locomotive seems to have an electrical issue, it will not run at all while placed on the track. As soon as I lift the back of the locomotive off the track just a little, with the front still on the rails the engine engages and the wheels turn like normal. Is this an electrical problem in the engine? Or something else? My other locomotives run just fine on the same track. Please give me any thoughts or suggestions.”

Add your answer below.

Denise asks readers:

“How do I keep my HO trains from uncoupling? Also how can he keep the cars from jumping the track?”

Add your answer below.

Tim asks readers for ideas:

“I have a 2-10- 4 stean engine that jumps track even on a perfect flat , straight area. Front two wheels jump track imeditatly. My others don’t. Any idea hat to look for?”

Here are questions from four blog readers who are wanting some advice. Perhaps you can help one of them.

John asks readers:

Baseboard Scatter

"Can anyone suggest a scatter material for a 6 foot x 4 foot baseboard which is reasonably priced?"

Alan asks:

Lighted Trees 

"I am looking for either a place to buy, or a way to make, some lighted Christmas tress for my O Gauge layout. I was thinking of adding a larger type tree to my town park area and would like the effect of having it lit. Does anyone know of a supplier of pre-made lit trees that can be wired into my layout?

Vincent asks:

Making Smoke 

"How do I make smoke (not from an engine) in a burning building? Thank you." 

John asks readers:

Rotex Scale Model Trains

"Does anyone know of ROTEX small scale model trains sets? If so,is there a club or group that has special interest in Rotex trains? Thanks." 

Add your comments or suggestions below.

Phil wants suggestions from others in the hobby:

Hi all, first time poster here. I am looking for advice in upgrading my layout... here's the detail:

Over the past 7 years I've been building up my O collection... comes out and goes under the tree each year. The layout has grown in size and accessories, and I have a collection of different types of locomotives. Here are some key highlights:

- track layout is essentially 2 interlocking ovals (all standard o gauge tracks - the 3 rail metal ones)
- 4 powered switches 6-14062/3 
- 1 electric gateman
- 3 other powered accessories (light up bridge, dog chasing the postman, etc)
- 1 utility/coupling track
- 1 transformer/controller (Lionel 6-14198 80 Watt Transfrmr/Cntrlr)

Engines include:  
- 2350 New Haven EP-5 Pwd. Electric Locomotive
- Hudson New York City Locomotive 6-28044
- Rail King RTR Subway Train Set 30-4122-1
- Thomas the Train Engine
- Various other cars

The bad news:
- I've noticed some of the trains slowing down and even stopping around my layout
- with 2 dogs and 2 small kids, it is sometimes challenging to keep the area neat, wires connected, etc 

The good news: 
- the wife has commented about all the wires and having to sit on the floor next to the couches to run the trains (the door is open for an upgrade!)

My questions:
- I suspect I may need a more powerful transformer (maybe a ZW) to go with this - I am only using 1 lockon to drive power to the track... will a 2nd lockon help?
- how do I upgrade into the 20/21st century with a hand held remote?  I've seen the "legacy" command and control modules at train shows - is this the best bet?
- I understand that many of the new locomotives are being built optimize the control experience, but I also have mostly older engines that I would want to make sure still works
- are the command/control centers capable of controlling my switches as well (and eliminate more wires?)

Any help/advice is appreciated

Tom asks for help from readers who have a mathematical mind:

“I’m trying to build my first layout and having trouble converting the scale layout to life size. The scale is 7/8 inch = 1 foot. If that is so then what does each 1/8 inch equal in life size?”

Add your comments below.

Vinny asks readers for help:

“I have a new MTH Proto 2.0 engine. I am trying to run it in conventional mode (do not have DCS command system). The loco won’t run. The lights come on, the engine chatter works. When I increase the voltage, the horn comes on and will not shut off. I charged the battery with MTH proto 2.0 charger and have the same results. What else can I do?”

Add your suggestion below.

If you have experience and can advise Ron, please comment below.

“I have two post war O diesel engines and both units the contact rollers burnt off. What causes this problem thanks and any help will be appreciated”

Derek asks readers:

“Hi I have just unpacked the 00 trains from 20Yrs storage and the Peco points have corroded under the frog rivets I have tried gentle emery paper and CRC but the resistance across the points is still quite high. Any help would be appreciated.”

Add your suggestions below.

Rhodie asks others for help:

“I have a brand new, kit built, H0 scale DJH manufactured SAR Class 6J steam loco, similar to the Frateschi 4-6-0. The motor, leading bogie, tender power bogies and drive wheels all work fine, except that the drive wheels on the main engine just slip on the track and the engine stands still. I’ve tried adding weight inside the boiler section but that doesn’t help. If they can be obtained, would adding a rubber band or tyre to two of the main drive wheels help or has anyone any other suggestions?”

Comment below.

Alex is into oo gauge railways and asks others in the hobby:

“Hi, can anyone suggest the best and easiest way to change tyres on oo diesel engines. Getting them off is easy, putting new ones on is not so easy.”

Add your comment below.

Here are some short questions submitted by readers. If you can help and know an answer please add your reply using the comments link below this posting.

1. Frank asks : I have a DC Athreans HO Kit S12, B&O Switcher Locomotive. Do you have installation instructions for the ATH90616 for this type of engine?

2. Bill asks: I am trying to fasten my track to Woodland Scenics roadbed (black foam type). What is the best adhesive for this? I have been trying caulking, plain and acrylic with mixed results.

3. Vincent asks: Where can I buy a H0/00 scale track with an N scale inside the HO/00 scale in other words there are three lines on one track?

4. Ray asks: Does any one know of any company in the u.s.a. who sells tt gauge trains (tt = table top)? Any help out there, if they run tt gauge across the pond, why not here?

5.  Sam asks: If N scale is 1:160, then in actual scale, 33 feet would be 1 mile. Is this correct?

6. Henry asks: Does and manufacturer make a New Haven FL9 model in HO scale?

If you can help any of these readers please use the comments link to add your answer.

 John asks readers for advice:

“I have an 00 Class J94 BR 0-6-0ST tank engine, (bought new within the last 12 monthw) which at anything faster than a slow crawl, has a rather intrusive motor/transmission scream. I was told that when it had a run a bit it would settle down. It hasn’t. I’ve given it a little oil (proper Horby oil) and it is no better. Do these tank engines have this characteristic. I.e., do I put up with it, or is there a cure? (My Royal Scot bought at the same time, purrs along – no scream) Thanks.”

If you have the knowledge to advise John, then please comment below.

Quinn would like your advice if you can help him:

“I am trying to set up a small N scale layout using Bachmann ez track. However I find that the switches when fastened to a plywood deck cause the trains to derail when making the turn (both right and left). I have created HO and N scale layouts previously and have not run into this issue while in germany using Marklin track for N or Atlas trach for HO. I have noticed that the screw pivot on the throw looks large and bulky, and the the engines and cars seem to rise when traveling over the frogs. Can someone advise me please”

Add your suggestions below.

John from Texas asks readers:

“I have a stripped screw hole (is that a real term??) on the transmission of my HO Heisler.  I cannot tighten the screw to hold the casing down. Is there a fix for stripped holes (the screw is fine)?”

Background info: The Heisler consisted of two steam cylinders positioned in a V  under the boiler approx 3/4th the way back from the front. The piston rods came out of the cylinders and attached to a crank shaft located under the center of the boiler.  Attached to either end of the crank shaft were the drive shafts.  The drive shafts were located below the center line of the engine.

Add your comments below.

Terry has a question for readers:

“I have a Bachmann LMS B1 loco. This is in perfect order except that due to clumsy handling the plastic axles have split. They are white plastic (nylon) with a square recess each end into which the drive wheels plug. I tried getting it fixed at my favourate train shop, but was told that the axles are not available. Can anyone help with a source of supply of these? It would help me resurrect a perfectly good model.”

To assist Terry you can reply below.

"I appear to have weevils having used the old flour paste to make paper mache hills, do you have any solutions as to how to get rid of them please."

Readers can suggest more solutions below.