Make no mistake about it; model train derailments can sometimes go really bad and several months’ of your hard work can go down the drain if some basics have not followed. Operational error and the failure to follow basic instructions are two common reasons for model train derailments but sometimes, cleaning up the mess can be fatal and plenty of money should be spent on repairing. Make sure that you slow down your train gradually and bring it to complete stop before shifting tracks. It is also a great idea to have periodic inspections done on the rails.

Travis sent in this tip to share:

Weight your cars to avoid derailments. Flat cars and gondolas can be a problem, so you can add a removable load. Use metal nuts, lead shot, and panel box knockouts are some ways to add extra weight. Make certain you glue the weights in firmly to avoid movement. There is nothing worse than having the weight come loose.

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Richard asks readers for advice:

“I am building a Woodland Scenics River Pass layout, and I’m at the point where I need to lay track inside the tunnels and cover the tunnels. I am using the Atlas track kit that is designed for the layout, and a number of the cars derail at the switches. I have replaced some of the wheels on the cars, and that doesn’t help. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.”

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Stanley wants advice from others in the hobby:

“Dear Readers. This question has probably been asked many times [and answered] but I am in the dark about what is an average weight per wagon [European] to hold to the track properly especially curves and turnouts? In other words: 40 ft.= total ounces per car. 50 ft.= total ounces per car. Thank you for all your help !”

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Wayne has a question that has been answered previously (search older postings) and which is answered fully in the members area of the online model train club. Readers might like to give a quick answer.

“I have several older N scale cars and want to change all to the automatic couplers. What type should I use and how much trouble to change them over? Thank you.”

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If you are an experienced model railroader you might like to assist with answering one or more of these questions asked by readers:

1. Ken asks: "How do you make an old (1960's) HO locomotive run quietly?"

2. Mike asks: "What is the minimum realistic HO track radii"

3. Gary asks: "Can I get locomotive sounds for my HO DC layout?"

4. Val asks: "I have just started to build my railway in 00 scale. Can you tell me how wide the roads should be. Thank you." 

A reader asks others for advice:

“I have been out of the hobby for many years. I have unpacked several boxes of HO locomotive engines and track and set up some for the kids. The engines are all sluggish and work intermittently. I realize they are most likely dusty and dry. How do I get them performing like they did previously? How do you clean and lubricate old equipment like these engines?”

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Owen sent in this tip to share:

A snagging train coupler can also cause derailments. Unpolished couplers (particularly on new cars), can catch and bring about derailments.

It pays to clean away any rough edges and if necessary adjust the couplers so they center properly. Some coupler brands and particularly older couplers are hopelessly uneven in heights. The key is to have then set at the same height where possible. And, it is a good idea to stick with one brand so you become familiar with how they perform. Mixing brands like Hornby and Bachmann can sometimes be problematic.

Derek has sent in this tip to share:

Having the wrong track gauge is a common cause of derailments. Having a tight track gauge may cause the wheels to ride up and derail. However, having a wide track gauge can also result in derailments when the wheel flanges don’t span the track properly.

One can adjust gauge by the use of spikes to hold the track down in gauge. The rail can also be gently heated with a soldering iron, and moving the rail to its correct position before letting it cool down.

Another thing I do is check the points for sharpness as they switch. Some newer switch points can be somewhat blunt on the movable section where it strikes against the stock rails. If this happens it can lift, or jolt, the wheels and end up derailing the train. Take a small file and gently smooth the moveable part of the points to achieve a smoother transition. Always check the gauge in both positions.

John has very generously sent in this idea to share with others in the hobby:

Whether you have a small layout or a room-sized empire, it’s essential to test the track as you build. One way of doing this is to use an older, inexpensive, or seldom-used locomotive to run over the track as you check for bumps, kinks, and other obstructions. If this locomotive runs fairly well, then your “good” engines will run like clockwork. However, it is important to see that this test locomotive actually runs and runs well enough to try out the track.

To Pre-Test the Test locomotive, which takes a short amount of time, set the track up in a semi-circle. Include straight, rerailer, curved, and small-pieces of track, along with a switch and siding, hooked up to a power pack (as shown in the accompanying photo). I used Kato N-Scale Unitrack and a small trolley, and slowly ran it in both directions, watching for hesitations, stops, derailing, and slowing down with flickering lights on the straights and curves, and looking for stalling in or out of the switch. A lot of locos hesitate slightly on switches, but should only stall out or derail if the switch is set improperly.

If your locomotive passes this Pre-Test, then it can be used as you put down track on your layout. By doing this small test, which only takes a few minutes, it gives you a reliable locomotive that has a “purpose in life” while your more-expensive diesels, electrics, and/or steam engines run on your layout.

Denny wants advice from others in the hobby and asks:

“Where do I lubricate my old Lionel engines (steam and diesel)? Where on a 736 do I apply oil? I added oil (light) to the shaft in cab now it smokes. Would this have damaged it?

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Ted is having computer and DCC problems and is hoping someone can offer some help:

“Hey fellow rail fans, I am upgrading some non DCC locomotives to DCC/Sound and after reading reports and watching videos I chose Digitrax as the media I want to use. However after receiving my PR3 I attempted to install it on two of my computers and it fails to be recognized. One operating system is XP and the other is Vista (The PR3 is not compatible to Windows 7). I installed the software anyway and of course it failed as well. The instructions state that the installation disc has a utility called USBDeview to be used to uninstall the software from the computer, but it does not exist on my disc. I have called Digitrax three times in the past 10 days and sent emails twice to seek help and got no response. Question is; does anyone have this PR3 system and have any idea what is wrong? I assume the particular PR3 I received is defective and will return it in a few days if I can’t get an answer! I am new to this computer style of model railroading and lack confidence, so I have to read everything several times and try and do it right! Maybe I made a mistake choosing Digitrax! I hope not! Thanks.

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Bill asks readers for advice:

“I’m now switching my layout to DCC. I have 3 or 4 HO Bachmann engines that I’ve had for about a year now. I’ve been running them on my track (DC). They run great however the lights in the engines come on when I first power them up but go out within a miinute or so. When I hooked up the DCC it was the same. Is this a bulb issue or something else. The engine were not top of the line. I paid about $100. a piece.”

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