Troubleshooting
Everything on model trains, model railroads, model railways, locomotives, model train layouts, scenery, wiring, DCC and more. Enjoy the world's best hobby... model railroading!
Don would like help from a knowledgeable reader and asks:
“Every once in awhile the train will stop at turnouts. Why is this and how do I solve the problem?”
Add your suggestions below.
Ben has a ceiling layout and wants help from an experienced railroader:
“I have a train going around the ceiling. The trouble I get is drop outs along the route as in it stops and goes and at times does run. How do I get flawless power running along the tracks. I had the Engine gone through and cleaned about four years ago. I have cleaned the tracks and still have drop outs. Please help?”
If you can advise Ben, then use the green Comments link below to add your thoughts.
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Here’s a good question from Joel on track oxidization. If you can help him please use the green comments link below this posting. Also share this with your friends on Twitter and Facebook. See buttons below.
“I live in South Florida and have a tough time keeping the nickel track from oxidizing. I have an N scale layout with a lot of track, yet before each operating session I have to spend a tremendous amount of time cleaning track. And, with some of the tight spaces on a well detailed N scale layout, that can mean damage. I actually run two track cleaning cars but that’s only good once the oxidaion is removed. Anybody use a good technique to prevent or reduce oxidizing?”
Mike wants guidance from others in the hobby on lubricating trains.
“I am somewhat new to this. What parts of the engine need oil/grease? Do the cars need oil/grease? Is there a diagram I can use as a guide? Thanks.”
Add your feedback below.
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Joe has a question for those who have been in the hobby for a while.
“Does anyone make an attachment for a six axle engine that will keep the wheels on the rail after hitting a high spot are a turnout? I was thinking maybe someone would make a derailler that fits under the carriage and guide the truck? Thank you for your help.”
To assist joe use the green Comments link below to add your feedback.
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I’m sure most people will have heard the old saying “garbage in garbage out.”
Well, unfortunately we get lots of questions that fail to qualify for publication because they lack enough thought and/or details.
In order to maintain quality, we just won’t publish a question that says, for example, “need info on dcc.” Believe it or not, we get a lot of questions like that, and then we get follow-up complaints when the questions are not published.
The point is it is not fair to our readers who contribute answers. Often they take considerable time crafting a good quality answer and it is not fair to expect them to try and guess what the questioner wants to know. If the questioner doesn’t consider it important enough to construct a well thoughtout question with supporting details, then in our opinion they don’t really deserve an answer.
So, if you are submitting questions, please put some thought into what it is you are asking. All questions have to pass through a moderating process and only about 50% will get published.
If you answered yes to that question, then perhaps you are able to help others by answering some of their model railroading questions on this blog? On the other hand, you could keep all your knowledge and experience to yourself and not share it with those who could really benefit from your thoughts and who would appreciate your suggestions. It is really your choice, but please remember this blog is operated as a free service and it does rely 100% on the contributions from people like you. We want to keep it free, but to do that we need regular contributors who are prepared to answer some of the many questions that get asked. The alternative is for us to pay someone to answer all the questions, but then we would have to charge a subscription to the blog and we don’t really want to do that.
So, if you can help by answering some of the questions on this model train blog, then please do.
David has a question for readers on locating a faulty rail connection. David says (in his words):
“This question comes from a complete idiot where electrics are concerned! Is there an electrical meter I can purchase which will quickly locate a loose rail connection which in turn is causing loss of power to the track? Would a continuity meter be the answer or am I talking nonsense? I have never used a multimeter if indeed that is the answer so I am hoping for something even an idiot like me can use. Any help would be greatly appreciated.”
If you can assist David, then please add your comments below.
Carolyn has a question for readers and ask:
“Hello, I am trying to find a transformer for a train that was my husband’s now deceased for my grandkids. He had a louis marx & co one but all it does is hum and won’t move the train. We took it out of storage and of course it was rusted tracks. We sanded them down hooked everything up and now the transformer won’t move anything but hum. How else is there things I can do. Will any transformer work or does it have to be exact like it. Please come back and help me. Thanks.”
Comment below.
Jimmy has a question that has been covered many times before (see earlier posts). Perhaps someone would like to offer some tips:
“I purchased a Polar Express loco 284 2 years ago. It was brand new from a hobby store. It no longer in works and I found it a problem from the beginning. It stalls when going over a turnoff at slow speed. I changed switches, but it did not matter. When going faster there is no problem. What am I doing wrong and what do I need to make it work?”
Comment Below
Over the years I have had emails from people with mechanical problems with locomotives of just about every brand – Rivarossi, Hornby, Accurail, Proto, Fleischmann, Kato, Ahearn, Lionel trains, Brio, Atlas, Aristo-Craft … you name it, I’ve heard the problems. I guess we all have our own brand preferences and we put locos to the test in different ways. That’s probably why we experience different problems and stick with the brands we know and like. Some prefer Bachmann, others prefer Atlas. However, it would be interesting to hear the different comments and get some feedback to Pauls comment and question below.
Paul has a question for readers regarding Bachmann quality:
“For some years I have mainly purchased Bachmann HO locos. The appearance is good and the price has been okay. However, after about 5 years or so, screws started to drop off and the motors started to hiccup. I continue to find ‘bits and pieces’ on the track and am doubting the Bachmann quality. I have no problem with older Rivarossi and Proto 2000 models and find that Bachmann Shays and ‘Old Timer” Baldwin 4-6-0’s are the poorest performers I have. Does anyone else share my problems?”
Which brands do you prefer using? Comment below.
Raymond from Nonthaburi Thailand asks a question that has been asked many times before on this blog (search results). Would someone please like to offer some suggestions to help Raymond solve his problem?
“I have a Athern HO train set from the States. It worked fine for a couple of days then it would stop , slow down and then speed up. I have a oval easy track. I finally soldered the tracks together but still have the same problem. The electricity here in Thailand is 220 so I use a transformer to connect the train transformer too. Now the locomotive is only powered by the last set of wheels and they work fine when held off the rail by the electrical train hook up. I do not want to continue to build my layout with out having the train working properly. In Thailand it is hard to find model rail road shops & they are very expensive. Can anybody help me to find a solution to my train problem.
Comment below.
Stephen is hoping for some help from those who know about switches, wiring and all the technical stuff:
“Having carefully installed some 14 point motors 6 Peco PL11’s and 8 Peco PL10’s all of the later, bar one surface mounted, the moment of truth was to switch them electrically. Regrettably most will only throw one way and some not either way. The assembly of all in exactly as the manufacturers instructions and I am using a 16volt AC supply. All motors when activated are very noisy. What have I done wrong?
Comment below.
Mark is having points problems on his 00 layout and asks readers for help:
“This maybe difficult to explain but will give it a go. I have two junction lines coming off a main line, one line powers well when used with the points going straight, however, when I switch the points to go left the power cuts out, therefore no engine movements. I have had the points tested by a friend who assures me the points are fine.
The points maintain continuity but the power shows no reading. This is the only switch points that this occurs in the whole layout which would have about 10 points. Would a bigger amps transformer be an answer? I hope your readers understand my problem as it sure has got me beat.
Cheers.”
Comment below.
Rob has a question on S scale and asks readers:
“I just had my 0-8-0 Engine repaired and it ran good for a few minutes. Then I added some fluid to the smoke unit and it stopped working. The e-unit clicks when I operate the transformer and the light on the tender lights, but the light on the engine doesn’t come on and it did when it ran. Has anyone got any suggestions please?”
Jack needs help from anyone who operates a MTH track layout and asks:
“I have a MTH Real Track layout. It has several track switches. I am having a huge maintenance problem with the switches and the control switch that is used to operate them. Is this a common problem, or is my experience unique? Any suggestions for a cure is welcome.”
Participate in the discussion below.
Russ has a problem with his TrainSounds system and asks for advice from others:
“I have a Lionel 4-6-4 Hudson with the TrainSounds system in the tender, with bell, whistle, and chuffing. All the sounds have stopped. I have tried on three different transformers and tried other sound systems on all three; all others work. Does anyone know if there is a schematic to follow for repair? Is there a repair service center your readers would recommend? I live in South Carolina.”
Comment below.
Paul wants to hear from anyone with a Railking switch and asks:
“I have a Railking left hand switch that has gone ‘dead’. Even the red/green lights on the ‘throw’ dont light. Checked wiring and don’t see a problem.”
Add your comments below.