Here are two model railroading questions from readers who would like your thoughts please:

Model Railroad Question 1.

“One term I expected to come across but which I really haven’t come across (except in one FAQ regarding N gauge) is wet water. I have a recollection of using something in the water that actually enabled the glue to penetrate the ground materials I was gluing to my table some number of years ago. For me it worked reasonably well, but I can’t remember the details now. Do you blog readers have any information on this?”

Model Railroad Question 2.

“I Received a marklin train set from my neighbor,Complete except for the power supply, it is an entry level with a small 3 wheel loco.If I am correct the power supply ” pn is 6648 “, that bought separately, costs more than a complete new set of the same,I am an electrician , I have HO trains and tacks , slotcars track 4 lane SCX 20 meterslong,I am building my own slotcar controllers, and are beginning to experiment with Pico micro computers.
Can one of your readers give me info or a drawing of how the Marklin control supply setup works (being 16 VAC instead of DC, and how the forward reverse select works)”

If you would like to answer these questions or offer your thoughts, please click on the comments tag below.

Here is a question submitted by a keen model railroader retating to somke units. If you can offer some suggestions and would like to share your ideas, please click the comments tag below.

He is the readers question:

“I have a couple of questions for your readers regarding the smoke unit in my LGB Mogul ; Mine has burned out, lasted maybe two seasons. Apparently , unless the local switch is in the 0 position, power is always ” on” to the smoke generator per the instructions.

1. Q: Does operating the engine with out ” smoke fluids ” shorten the generator’s life span?

2. Q Do I really have to use LGB’s fluid exculsively? Has my use of Aristo’s fluid shortened it’s life?

I think that we are talking just refined kerosene here not rocket science. LGB also warns of use of power supplies other than theirs. Heck, I had Aristo and have used it for 5 years without a problem plus there are pleanty of excellent after market independent units on the market.”

Click the comments tag to share your ideas.

Here are 3 questions you might like to think about and offer possible solutions. These model railroading questions were submitted by readers to this Blog.

To add your comment or to answer this question, simple click on the comments tag below.

Model Railroading Question 1.

What is the best way to clean that green build-up that occurs on engines and track from the electricity?

Model Railroading Question 2.

Maybe a reader can help me with decals for australian trains, ie. oil tankers & general sign for city areas buildings etc that could be used in the setting up of a purely australian scene?

Model Railroading Question 3.

I have a large n scale layout with a lot of trains and I want to go dcc. What is the best dcc controller for me to use under $200?

If you would like to help one or all of these readers, simply submit your suggestions by clicking the comments tag.

Here is a question from a model railroader in New Zealand who has just purchased a pilot train; an ON30 gauge Bachmann 28 ton Chey loco and rolling stock. He is working on a layout that could be 20-30 yards long and will be based on 19th century trains a lot of which came from the USA. Here is his question which fellow model railroaders might like to offer some help with:

“Where/who is the best source of 19th century, ON30 gauge, logging type trains,
rolling stock, buildings, scenery and DCC equipment?”

The model train enthusiast is also looking for “distressed” buildings and model trains which look as though they have had some service and been around for some time. This is for reality purposes.

To answer this question simply click on the comments tag under this.

Here is a model rail question from a fellow railroader. You might like to offer some ideas.

“I am thinging of a layout fitted onto a 4 x 8′ board. The only problem I have is it would be difficult to move around. If I make it 2 4 x 4′ boards it appears to work better. The boards would sit on 6 wooded posts: two for the left end, two for the center where the two boards are connected, two for the right end. Of course everything would have to be connected after the move. This should be not a problem as how often do you move house. Any thoughts from your blog readers would be appreciated.”

To offer an answer to this model railroading question simply click on the comments link below.

Here is a question that a reader would like fellow model railroaders to help him with:

“I have an old American Flyer mechanical train that needs a new spring. It still works but it is too weak to move the train (it is fairly heavy).

Do you know anyone who works on these models. Someone suggested a clock repair service. “

Remember, this model railroad blog is for everyone in the hobby. For it to work well, we other to share ideas and offer answers. So, if you have a lot knowledge, please share it by clicking the comments tag on each question to offer your answer.

I know how fellow model railroaders like to help each other, so a couple of questions from blog readers that you might like to get your teeth into and contribute an answer.

Question 1 from Fred:

I have read about “Battery-Powered Locomotives” I have not been able to get a clear picture of what this technology can do and what it can not do compared with “Track-Powered” system.
Can your readers help me please?

Question 1 from Richard:

I’m a mechanical designer and always work with angles when it comes to slopes of de grees or E.G 1′ over 12 ‘ etc. but reading in most train magazines for quite some time now people refer to the “percentage” of slope. e.g. a 2% slope etc. Do readers know what it is and how do I translate a 1 or 2% slope into degrees? Its much easier to use angle and distances I think.

Here is a chance for readers to help a fellow enthusiast with the problems he is having running his Polar Express train set.

Here is his question about the running of a new Polar Express, if you would like to help out with an answer.

Phil asks:

“I want to know how to make my eng.(o-guage,polar express) run smoothly at low speed. Also will it help if I remove the rubber tires.

My problem is I bought the Polar Express RTR with a couple of extra short straights to make a slightly bigger oval for under the xmas tree. It get’s to the far end of the oval and starts to slow down.(slow speed it will almost stop).

I’ve cleaned the track,wheels. Measured ohms, voltage. Tried a friends loco,does better,but it’s dual motor and alot lighter. Took my loco to a LHS and tried it there and it runs fine. Tried bigger power pack, jumper wire to the other end of the track. Checked track connections.

I’m becoming very frustrated because this is a brand new Polar Express set. I don’t want to go out and buy new track. The fast track is brand new or would I have better luck with regular o guage track.”

That is his question. I know that experienced model railroaders like to help each other (especially newbies to the hobby), so here is your chance to contribute some help.

If you would like to offer a solution simply click on the comments tag below and submit your comments for posting to this model railroading blog.

Here is a question that you might like to get your teeth into and share your ideas with others in the hobby.

“I have two s gauge desiel locomotives from American Models that are AC powered. I want to convert them to DC power, but don’t know where to start after I remove the electronic reverce unit from the wiring on these. one is a GP-35, and the other one is a SD-60. I plan on installing Digitrax DCC to runthen more like the real train. If you readers can include a drawing it would help me out a lot.”

If you can help this fellow model railroader, then please feel free to add your comments using the comments tag below.

Happy railroading!

Here is a question that experienced model railroaders might like to offer an opinion on. This reader is returning to the hobby after a long break. Here is what he has to say,
“Coming back to this interest 25 years on I immediately became aware that in the intervening period there have been major jumps in technology,DCC, sound cards, decoders etc. “

His question is this:

“I want to create a good model railway, not a toy, but like everyone I don’t have unlimited cash to waste on a whim. Returning to the market after this time I see that Fleischmann continue to put out an impressive product,and surprisingly Hornby are still in the game, to all appearances quite healthily. The model which I hope to build will either be British orGerman so that also limits my interest. What seems to be the case with them (because priced catalogues and information about local availability is patchy) is that Fleischmann will require a considerably greater investment, even in things like track, but on the other hand their DCC technology and range of enabled locos issubstantially greater. They also seem to have more product available on the Australian market and one of the dealers told me that lack of stock and range is a problem with Hornby (he was a Hornby dealer). So without putting readers in too difficult a position which direction should I head in to build a good value-for-money model?”

If you can offer some advice then I sure that this will be helpful to our contributer and others reading this model railroading blog.

Here is a question from a fellow modeler that readers might like to offer help with…

“I’m building a new N-scale railroad modeled after the Santa Fe. I’m usingKato track. I’ve already installed side-by-side a single track trestle anda double track trestle. What I need to find is a double track mountaintunnel. I haven’t yet got a copy of the new Walthers catalog. Do your readers have any suggestions?

This RR is on a 4’x8′ table. There will be 6 freight trains and onepassenger train. Since I’m retired, I’ll have plenty of time to work onthis project; there is no hurry.”

This blog is for all model railroaders, so feel free to contribute your ideas and help others in the hobby.