Here are a couple more questions from South African model railroading ethusiast Hettie. (see earlier blog posting).

Readers are welcome (and encouraged to contribute answers).

Hettie asks:

IS THERE A WIRELESS DIGITAL DEMAND CONTROL AVAILABLE THAT IS COMPATIBLE TO MARKLIN?

OUR SETUP IS ABOUT 20M LONG AND WE HAVE A PROBLEM SEEING AROUND THE CORNERS AND CHIMNEY WALL THAT’S DIVIDING THE ROOM IN THE ATTIC. MARKLIN APPARENTLY DO NOT MANUFACTURE A CORDLESS CONTROL TO CONTROLE THE TRAINS ANYMORE. IN THIS DAY AND AGE EVERYTHING IS WIRELESS… IS THERE A NEW PRODUCT THAT CAN BE INTEGRATED WITH HO SCALE MARKLIN PRODUCTS?

WE WILL BE VISITING THE STATES NEXT YEAR JANUARY. WILL ANY OF THE TRAIN ENTHUSIASTS SHARE THERE SETUPS WITH US TO VIEW? WE INTEND TO POP IN AT VEGAS, LOUISVILLE ATLANTA NEW YORK AND SCRANTON.

Here are some questions from a model railroader that other readers might like to get their teeth into. Your contributions are welcome.

• I have a question; Can you run a DCC engine on a regular track and can you run a regular Train on a DCC track?
• I am close to finishing my 12X12 building for my layout…There are so many different layouts it is hard to know where to start?
• What size track do you like and why?…55 or 100?
  What is the difference?
• What type of switches do you recommend?
• If I have a DCC train running on a DCC track and switch to a non-DCC track what will happened?
• I am using MRC 6 amps. I am getting mixed messages as to track and switches.
  I have one train that can only take a 32% turn, the engine is an F 7 and the rest is pass anger care.
• I wanted to run a regular track all around the outside with no switches and it will run off the Seed controller…no stops or have it isolated from the rest of the layout? Good?

Readers contributions are welcome.

One of the most frustrating motor problems encountered with pre-war model trains, is an “exploded” commutator. The problem is caused when the fiber washer holding the commutator assembly together fails because of old age. A sudden fragmentation of the three segments can result in motor failure. This can be spectacular when if it happens when the model trains are operating at full power.

Provided the commutator segments are in good condition, it is possible (in most cases) to have your commutator rebuilt using the original components.

You’ll probably need the services of experienced model train repairer who will require the armature and original commutator segments (if not too worn) in order to rebuild the commutator assembly.

It doesn’t matter how long a model train enthusiast has been involved in the hobby, most come up against questions that need answers. Trouble is; those answers are not always easy to find. Searching the internet, although helpful, can prove to be a big time-waster, because many model train websites consist just of useless links to other sites.

Sheer frustration is what motivated me to write my Model Train Help ebook, as like so many other model train enthusiasts, I found finding answers slow and tedious. I thought to myself, if I’m experiencing these frustrations, then so must lots of fellow enthusiats. So, I decided to rectify the problem by answering, in simple easy-to-understand English, many of the question facing model train enthusiasts, both experienced and beginner.

I then set about asking model train enthusiasts what their most pressing questions were. Here are some of the questions they came up with – all of which are answered in the ebook:

If I install a larger motor in my locomotive will I be able to pull more cars?

What’s wrong when a part of the track will not work? How do I go about fixing it?

Should I replace my horn-hook couplers with knuckle couplers?

What is rust-busting, a talgo truck, “head-end” traffic, a green wave for freight trains?

What is meant by “code”, as in code 40 track? Is a locomotive change-over the same as shunting?

Which rails should I use – brass, steel or nickel-silver?

How do I make plastic buildings look real?

Why do some buildings look translucent?

Should electric feed wires be included every couple of feet or should I solder rail joiners?

What is a bridge rectifier and what does it do?

When I buy a track switch, what is meant by ‘No. 4 turnout’ or ‘No. 8 turnout’?

Running techniques for a locomotive on a reversing loop. What about stopping the loco on the loop and throwing the switch?

What is a decoder and can I run an analog locomotive on a DCC system without a decoder?

Can I just put a decoder in my old analog engines?

Are ‘O-gauge’ and ‘O-scale’ the same thing?

Is there a right and wrong way to cut track?

If I have limited space what should I leave out from my layout?

What is a classification yard and how does it work? What are the yard options?

Should I have a run-around track and dedicated lead track?

What’s a Capacitor Discharge Unit and a Solenoid Motor and what do they do?

What’s the difference between DC and DCC?

What do I need to start or convert my analog layout to a DCC system?

What’s the difference between service mode and operations mode?

Can I control turnouts with DCC?

What’s a booster? Will the ampere rating of a booster and power supply limit how many locos I can run at the same time?

What causes a train to short out on a turnout?

That’s just a small sample of what is included in the book. So, if you need answers to these or other model train questions then have a look at my website for the Model Train Help ebook.

Happy Railroading!

If you are adding a new locomotive to your model train set layout then check out the wheels. If the wheels are not connected to a gear, then the locomotive wheels will move easily when you push them with your finger. If the locomotive wheels move just a little and then go stiff, they’re connected to a gear. That’s a good sign. If the locomotive is slow to start, then consider buying something a bit better. A good locomotive is an excellent addition to any model train set and is worth the investment.

The locomotive motor is also important and needs to be of good quality, to turn smoothly, using the least amount of electricity.