Weathering
Everything on model trains, model railroads, model railways, locomotives, model train layouts, scenery, wiring, DCC and more. Enjoy the world's best hobby... model railroading!
Robin wants some pointers on removing decals and asks everyone:
“I want to change a tender from New York Central to Southern. I have tried Floqul Decal remover without success. The tender is a new Lionel. Have any of your readers got any experience with decal removal?”
Comment below.
Larry wants to create a night scene for his model railroad layout and asks readers for advice:
“What is the most realistic way for creating stars in the sky at night for a layout?”
Comment below.
Mike has an unusual question for readers:
"What is a good font size to make names on buildings and signs for your layout? I have some Hobby Cal item # 7 inkjet water-slide decal paper I have purchased and want to try it out. Thanks for any ideas I can get."
Add your comments below.
Don has a question for readers on paint colrs and supply and asks:
“I need tank car silver paint to redo several cars and don’t know what to purchase. Has anyone got any directions for me? Also, I would like to do several other cars, but I cannot find a source of correct colors and decals. Any help????? Regards, Don”
Frank want to get an HO GM MP15 and asks readers:
“Where can I acquire an HO gauge model of a GM MP15 dummy undecorated? Athern used
to manufacture it but I am told that Athern does not at this time. Does one of your readers know who may have one?
James is having trouble with decals and is wondering if others experience similar problems. If you can give James any advise – please do, as I’m sure he (and many others) would like to hear your thoughts on decals. James asks:
“Is there a definitive source that will demonstrate/explain the art of decaling? My skills are horrible at best and I want to learn/master the intricacies of decaling.”
Register (it takes only 2 minutes) and then add your comments by using the Comments & Feedback link below. EASY!
John is on the look out for decals and road signs for his RR layout and asks:
“Can someone inform me where I can get European decals, road & track signs (Norwegian) if possible?”
You can help John by adding feedback to his posting.
Also, even if you can’t answer John’s question, perhaps you might like to comment on decals and road signs in general. Maybe you make your own road and track signs, or maybe you can share some tips for applying decals. I’m sure others in the hobby would be very interested in hearing your views.
To comment or add feedback simply click on the green comments link below this posting. Then simply register (you only need to do this once), and then you can add feedback and comments to any blog posting.
This effect can be achieved by using heat to deform the plastic outwards to simulate denting from the inside. Again, I warn that this can be tricky and the result is not always as planned. So, be warned, you might want to try out on an old piece of plastic before working on an expensive car. Use a soldering iron (not set too hot) to gently press against the inside of the walls. You could also use a heated screwdriver, but again you need to take care and don’t break right through the plastic.
You may be best to test different techniques on an old train/car before doing any permanent damage to your best rolling stock.
Thank you for the excellent feedback on my series of model train videos – I’m glad people are enjoying them.
Video #23. Making Scenery Foliage
Palmer has an interest in the Civil War and Model Railroads and would like to hear from like-minded people:
“I am both an HO scale model railroader and a Civil War re-enactor. I plan to include a tv re-enactor scene from the siege of Petersburg. This scene will include U.S. Military Railroad box cars as well as cannon armed cars. I have black and white photos of that time period, what I need is an idea of the color scheme used by the U.S.M.RR. for the box cars and troop carrying cars. Can one of your readers who shares my interest in Civil War history please help me?”
Comment using the comments link.
This model railroader blog is for you to use and share ideas with others in the hobby.
Here are three questions submitted by fellow model railroaders who would like some help.
If you are able to give some suggestions or advice, simply click on the green comments tag below. I’m sure they will appreciate your thoughts.
Model Railroader Question 1:
“I have a question. I’ve just constructed a 6 x 10 foot wood table setup. Will be running American flyer s gauge. Plywood top with Homasote over plywood.
Anyway, I want to prepare the homasote with a coat of paint. Any idea on the color? What type. I’m not really into realism. Just want a basic set up and will establish scenery as I go along. (with many of your suggestions).
One idea is to use an earthen color and add green later for grass. Or just paint green. I’m kind of reluctant to paint green to prevent pool table look.
For now I just want to start laying track and getting started. Any ideas on what to use to fasten track to homasote? Any help from your readers would be greatly appreciated. “
Model Railroader Question 2:
“Are there any methods to create canted or banked curves with HO flextrack? I’ve never seen a model RR with banked curves. They look great on real RRs.”
Model Railroader Question 3:
“I have a 6×10 layout with 3 different tracks, someone said that I will need a barrier strip and jumper. When train goes at the far end of the layout it slows up a lot or stopping. Would I need the barrier strips and the jumper? If so, how would I hook them up I do not know? Would your readers have a diagram or step by step instructions. Thank you! “
If you would like to help these model railroaders and suggest an answer, simply click on the green comments tag below.
After a year in the making a series of 42 amateur model railroading videos were finally released today.
These videos do not pretend to be Hollywood productions as they focus more on providing good content rather than flashy presentation.
The 42 model train videos cover a range of model railroading topics and include tours of several private layouts… not normally open to the public.
These videos, available by download, also feature visits to some train shows and include lots of useful ideas and tips to help hobbyists build, or improve their own model railroad. Other video topics cover baseboard construction, electrics, foliage making, DC and DCC operation. The series even includes three videos about building a garden railroad.
These videos range in length but average around nine or ten minutes each. The step-by-step tutorials in the videos provide answers to many common (and not so common) model railroading problems.
Access to these videos is by “membership only” so is restricted to a limited number of keen model railroaders.
To find out more about these model train videos and to read the list of contents and see a sample video click on this model train video link.
Happy railroading!
Painting two colors on a locomotive can be a difficult task especially if the colors butt up to each other and when a straight line is needed. Usually masking tape is a useful tool for painting straight lines, but sometimes the lines are a bit rough.
To achieve a better result allow at least 24 hours before applying the second color. This will give the first color adequate time to harden properly. Then apply the masking tape to make your line. The trick is to then spray the area to be painted the new color AT THE EDGE OF THE TAPE with dullcoat effectively sealing the tape.
Leave it to dry for at least 30 minutes. This is important because we rush applying the second coat when the first coat has not thoroughly dry and is still slightly soft. Then paint the second color and this should leave a sharp paint line with n signs of bleeding. A simple and easy model train tip.
The N scale Atlas N RS-1 Locomotive will not have DCC ready frames, but it will have a new paint scheme in August 2007.
We all feel the cold when temperatures drop, but so does our model train layout. When temperatures drop below 32 degrees fahrenheit (0 degree Celsius), moisture in the air and the models begin to freeze and the plastic becomes brittle.
The thing to remember is that it is often coldest at night when the model railroader is sleeping. The problem is freezing temperatures and damp can lead to condensation freezing on the model train layout. We were taught at school that water expands when it freezes. It is true and it can cause damage to your layout, rails and electronics.
High humidity can also be a big problem. Old steel rails rust just like any other unprotected steel. So, keep a watch on temperature and humidity levels around a model train layout. This could save time and the wasted effort of constant maintenance or repairs to models due to rust.
If you want to make shop signs, road signs, railroad signs etc for placement around your model railroad layout, you might want to use your computer laser or ink-jet printer. Coat the ink-jet sign with Polly-Scale Flat Finish so that weathering will not cause the color to run.
Under no circumstances use the popular technique of dulling the sign with steel wool. The waterproof seal will be broken and the in-jet inks will run and ruin the sign. Instead use pastels for dulling the signs. This is less of a problem with laser printers or color copiers.
Model Railroad level crossings definitely look too clean when taken out of the packaging. However, sometimes level crossings on model railway layouts also give the appearance of being “over weathered”. So what is the answer?
Try to apply a small amount of dark wash (a watered down black) only to the hinge and connecting rod areas of the gates. On a prototype railway level crossing they are the parts that are greased regularly and so it be right to assume that they would generally appear greasy.
Over weathering can make the gates look simply “grimy” and “uncared for”. This also can be a pleasing effect in older freight yards etc.