Ron has a question:

“I have some existing white decals that I need duplicated. I do not have a printer at home. What is my best hope? Thanks in advance.”

Perhaps someone might like to offer a suggestion. I presume he has considered taking them into a copying shop or asking a friend with a scanner/printer for help?

Here is a tip from a member of the online Model Train Club (see right column):

Painting several colors on some rolling stock or a locomotive can be problematic especially when the paint colors butt against each other, or where a straight line is required. Applying masking tape can definitely help when painting straight lines, however there are times when the lines appear jagged or rough.

To end up with a clean result it is usually best to allow 12 to 24 hours before attempting to apply another color. The first coat needs adequate time to dry and harden properly. It is a good idea to apply some masking tape to achieve a straight line. Try spraying some Dullcoat to the area you are planning to paint at the edge of the masking tape. This is to seal the tape.

Then, leave the new coat to dry for a minimum of 30 minutes. This step is important because there is no point is applying a second coat if the first coat is not completely dry or if it is still a bit sticky or soft. When it is dry it is time to paint on the second color. All going well you should be left with a clean sharp paint line without showing any signs of the paint bleeding.

Another way of doing it…

The other option is to mask the area you painted first and then spray the remainder of the loco the original color again. Spraying with the original color will help fill those little gaps where the second color might have over-run. You can then leave the loco to dry again prior to respraying it with a second color. You are unlikely to see any over run this time around.

Here’s a tip from Mike:

“We are constantly looking for the right tools for detailing and weathering. Check out the cosmetics counters in big stores. There are several unique shaped Q-Tips that are perfect for applying paints and chalks and are reasonably priced for large quantities that can last forever. Shaped sponges for Bathing and Complexion Care and are super handy for paint application and clean up. Look around the counter – you never know what could be useful.”

Even some of the discount stores have cosmetic sections with some really useful brushes etc ideal for model train weathering.

   Styrene is a popular material to use for scratch building because it is versatile and inexpensive. However, you don’t want to throw all your offcuts away. There’s a product called MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) which is a plastic solvent welder, used to weld parts together using capillary action (another brand is Testors Welder). MEK works with polystyrene (not foam), and is slower drying than polyweld. You can pour some MEK in a glass bottle and then to make a putty paste by dissolve some scraps of styrene to make a putty (paste) to fill holes, imperfections, joints and other areas that could require filling before you start painting. 
WARNING: MEK is known to be carcinogenic (cancer-causing), so skin protection and good ventilation is absolutely essential.

Humbrol and Revell make liquid polystyrene cements.

Testors also make both liquid and a gel type solvent based styrene cements. The liquid versions come in a small bottle with a long stainless steel needle like stem for easy control and to prevent evaporation.

If you are working in wood you can do a similar thing by mixing sawdust and wood shavings with PVA wood glue. This putty mixture can then be used for planks, wood siding, or for filling gaps or fixing imperfections.

More tips and ideas in the Model Train Club.

If you have some suggestions please comment below.

Add your comment below.

Have a go using Gouache (a water mixable color available from art stores) for adding a pitting or streaking appearance to freight cars.  Use a very fine artist brush to put a small dot of Gouache on the spot where you want to add a rust pit that has streaked down the side of the freight car. Let the Gouache start to dry. Then dip a wider brush in water (or Micro Sol Decal Set) and then pull the brush gently downwards from the dot. This will create a streak.

You can also use Gouache to create much thin washes of rust or dirt. Try using white gouache to give a bleeding white effect on wagons.

Another idea is to prepare a thin Gouache wash. Apply the color to the car so it is is wet. Then sprinkle a little salt (kitchen table salt) on the surface. Wait for it to dry, then rub the salt away with your fingers. Then touch up the car with dabs of gouache to finish off the pitting. Always test new techniques on an old car first. You wouldn’t want to make an mistakes with one of your best cars.

More scenery ideas in my new ebook available now from http://www.model-train-layouts.net

This is a low-cost way to weather freight cars. Remove the bright shine from freight cars with this weathering technique (practice on an old car first).

Apply some white water based house paint (just a small amount) to a small brush. Then dip it in water and give it a good soaking. However, don’t wash all the paint off. Starting with the roof brush it over the model. Use downward strokes to brush it to the bottom of the wagon. Don’t worry if it run’s down the sides as you can wipe away spillages with a piece of kitchen paper towel.

Then get some Woodland scenics water based ground dye (burnt umber is a good choice). Add a few drops in a paper cup with a small amount of water. Then paint this mixture over the wagon like you did with the white mixture. You want a dirty looking mix.

After you have covered the wagon you can brush the model with a very diluted down mix of brown. Brush it on starting at the top. Use a very wet brush and all the colors should start running down the side. Paint some on rivet lines, the door edges, and other places that would normally attract rust or dirt and grime. Use a paper towel and soak up the spills.

You could even use this technique on the trucks and wheels, but you might want to use a “rust” looking color on the wheels.

More model railway tips in the Model Train Help ebook.

Make sure any vehicles and rail crossings are from the right era. One idea is black washing the grilles and hubcaps to add depth and realism. Using a small brush you can also paint tail-lights, parking lights and door handles if needed.

Then consider taking the cars apart and install drivers and passengers. Nothing looks more fake on a layout than vehicles seemingly driven by invisible ghosts! You can purchase miniature figures in male, female and child variations all molded in ‘flesh’ color. The arms must be attached by gluing. Then the figures can be painted. Sometimes, the figures won’t fit between the steering wheel and the seat. It sounds a bit cruel but you simply cut the legs off with pliers and they fit just fine.

Use flat (rather than glossy) model paint to make painted clothing and hair look real. Keep things to the right scale relative to the trains. More ideas in my Model Train Help ebook.

Phil also has a G scale layout and asks:

“I have put down my LGB copper track on hard plastic form (cannot remember manufacturers name). I will now fasten every other section to this base. Unfortunately this layout is under some trees and accumulates leaves and debris. I am looking to glue the crushed stone and gravel. However, no-one seems to be able to help me with this process. What adhesive should I use and how do I accomplish this? Im looking to maintain the layout with the least amount of work. I would move it but it works around and over my Pond.”

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Model railroad ballasting

Many model railroaders scratch build their structures using balsa wood. To add a wood grain effect, use a metal dog comb, and run it along a test piece of balsa. This should produce marks on the balsa like wood grain. The trick is to use a comb that is the correct scale width.

Visitors to your model railroad layout will not always spot the little details straight away, but the longer they watch the trains operate, the more chance they have to notice the elements that add amazing reality to your layout. Their faces will instantly light up, as they suddenly spot something interesting that captures their imagination.

More clever model railroad tips.

Cliff contributes this airbrushing train tip:

I use the airbrush a lot for my prototype lures. Being a lure designer and modeling prototypes from scratch professionally for many of the major lure manufacturers has it’s advantages. Here is a tip for your readers…I airbrush with laquers. When sprayed right, they can get almost any effect and won’t damage plastics when airbrushed light but will stick forever. The colors are limitless when you know that fingernail polishes are laquers. I mix colors to get exactly what I am looking for in nature and the same can be done with modeling the train scenes, cars, equipment, folage, etc.

Add your suggestions below.

Paul is having trouble locating decals and asks readers:

“Where can I find decals and transfers for PRR? Haven’t had any luck finding sites with them.”

Add your feedback and suggestions below.

Paul has a question that he will find well answered in the Model Train Help ebook. Others might like to add some thoughts:

Paul asks: “What’s the best way of weathering model railway loco’s carriages, wagons, etc.”

Comment below.

Alan has a paint question for readers and asks:

“I have just finished hand laying some N Gauge Turnouts using ME rail and flex track. I am trying to match the (PC/wood ties) to the ME brown flex track color. Any brand paint as long as it is a GOOD match in the smallest can available will be fine, any help or suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks in advance ~Alan”

Comment below.

Palmer asked a similar question on Jan 25 (search civil war in search box) and Ken had a go at answering his question. Maybe someone else would like to contribute an answer to Palmers latest question:

“I am an H.O. modeler I want to make a Civil War scene as a part of my layout. I want to include a period loco and several U.S. Military Railroad cars. I have not been able to find out what color were used by the U.S. MRR. during the Civil War on rolling stock.”

Comment below.

Notice to all Questioners – please remember to thank anyone answering questions. They don’t get paid and are genuinely trying to help. Use the green comments link to add comments, suggestions, answers etc.