Everything on model trains, model railroads, model railways, locomotives, model train layouts, scenery, wiring, DCC and more. Enjoy the world's best hobby... model railroading!
TUTORIAL – Making Scale Model Shipping Containers For A Model Railroad
Making scale model shipping containers that actually look like mini versions of real-world giant 10ft, 20ft, and 40ft sea containers has never been easier. These 40 designs are exceptionally realistic (complete with rust from sea spray) and some even have refrigeration motors depicted on the ends. The best thing is; they don’t look like graphic color drawings. The photographic style imaging means these models actually look like real sea containers. These scale model shipping containers are perfect for positioning on flat cars, trucks, near industries, ports, and rail yards on OO gauge, N scale, and HO scale model railroads.
Which Sound Decoders Are Best?
Richard S who models HO wants to hear opinions on decoder types:
“I notice that sound decoders seem at least triple the cost of non sound. Are they worth it, and which are the best to buy?”
Use the comments link to submit your comment, suggestion, or opinion to assist Richard.
Are Track Screws Better Than Nails and/or Glue?
Kris would like to know what others think:
“In another week or so I will be ready to fix down my HO track. I saw several bulk packs of track screws for ho, n, z scale on Amazon and eBay. Prices varied, but around $15 seems average for 1000. Before I buy screws, nails or glue I thought I would see what others who have used screws or nails have to say. I suspect that screws, although very tiny, could be easier to remove than nails and glue? I could be wrong. What do others recommend?”
Add your comment and view published comments below.
NEW DESIGNS! How To Make Realistic Model Houses
New house designs add to the already wide range of downloadable plans.
Will Changing My Track Code Reduce Problems?
Mal asks readers:
“I have code 83 and use transition joiners to match code 100 turnouts. I have a couple of older trains which seem more problematic than my newer ones. The problems happen mainly on the code 83. Is this a common problem? Should I replace the code 83?”
Make Semi-Detached Model House For Your HO, OO, or N Scale Railroad or Diorama Display
There are several new house designs recently added to the range including plans for making semi-detached houses.
Transformer Cord Residue
Kim has this question for readers:
“When I unpacked my O gauge Pennsylvania Flyer Train Set for under my Christmas tree this year, I noticed on my transformer cord that there is some kind of white paper like sticky substance, here and there on the cord. Is it safe to use? I have been trying to peel it off with my fingernail and wondered how, where and why this has happened. I am very careful with my set and I don’t remember this on the cord when I boxed it up last year. Thank you.”
MTH Tripplex with Dropped Front Driveshaft
Dene asks:
“My 2 MTH Tripplex’s both have dropped the front driveshaft, so front drivers don’t turn round anymore. Does Anyone know how to dismantle the boiler to get into the front driveshaft please? Has anyone else had this problem? Any help would be greatly appreciated thanks.”
Red LED Glows Brighter – Why?
Online Train Club member Jaymie posted this question:
“I can’t get my green, yellow, and red LED’s to shine at the same intensity. They all have the same resistor value but the red light glows brighter which is weird?”
If you can answer Jaymie on why his “Red LED Glows Brighter” add a comment below.
Where To Put Insulated Rail Joiners, Frog and Switch Turnouts
Ross H has this question for blog contributors:
“I have a reasonably small layout which I am wiring for DC operations. I am including blocks to leave engines when not in use. What I’m not sure of is where to position the insulated rail joiners in conjunction to the switch turnouts. Will the placement of the insulated joiner affect the placement of the switch turnouts and frog? Am I right in having the switch on the mainline or approaching block? What else do I need to know please?”
Have your question published on any model railroading topic. See the “Ask a Question” link.
If you want to see the answers to Ross’s question on “Where To Put Insulated Rail Joiners, Frog and Switch Turnouts” use the Comments link to view, or add a comment.
1947 Vintage Lionel Train
Chris asks:
“We believe our Lionel train is a 1947 vintage train set. Our power source works. The lights come on the locomotive and the caboose. The train went around twice and then stopped. We can tell the engine is engaged and makes somewhat of a growling sound, but it won’t go forward or backward. We have checked the tracks and they are intact. Any suggestions?”
Connecting a Prodigy Express and Booster
Tony who models in HO asks:
“I have a prodigy express and a booster. How do I connect them? I don’t understand the instructions on the back of the booster which says run a cable from the ‘Factory use only’ port on the prodigy (I don’t have a factory only port). When I connect the prodigy to the booster with the telephone type cable the power light and pilot dim and blink and there is no power coming from the track connector on the booster. I also have an ac/dc adapter with a telephone jack on the end which I assume should be plugged into the booster. Any help would be greatly appreciated”
Making Rock Faces From Tin Foil
Brendon sent in this idea to share:
I make rock faces using aluminum foil – the stuff found in the kitchen. It is cheap and easy to use. I put my gathered rock (s) on my bench and wrap in a piece of tin foil. I gently push the foil around the sides so the rock is wrapped tightly with one surface exposed. This is so I can remove the rock (s) without damaging the foil mold I just created.
I then fill the foil mold with plaster. I found tinting the plaster with a few drops of paint color is good because it takes away the stark white color of the plaster which makes it easier to paint when it is dry. I put small pieces of fiberglass mesh tape which I buy cheap in a roll from a DIY store into the plaster before it starts to dry. This gives the plaster rock or rock face more strength when it is cured and removed from the foil mold.
When the plaster rock is dry it is ready for some final shaping or smoothing off with a craft knife or coarse sandpaper before painting. The rock face needs to fit in a specific space so some minor shaping is usually necessary. I also scrape and chisel out some areas to rough them up a bit to resemble crevices and indentations in the rock. I hope this helps someone.
Next time I do this I will try using Hydrocal and perhaps experiment with spraying the inside of the foil mold with a fine mist of diluted dishwash liquid to make it easier to remove the plaster rock without damaging it. Worth a try.
Voltage Amperage Ranges With Dropping Resistors?
This question is from Ray J:
“What voltage and amperage rating would I need for the indicator LED’s on the control panel I am building for my O scale setup? My trains are quite old. I know the switches use a standard voltage, but I heard LED’s need specific voltage / amperage ranges with dropping resistors? Sounds complicated?”
Add your comment and view the comments below.
Why Does My Train Only Run In Reverse?
Warren asks readers:
“I have a Lionel engine with 8604 on side. It has been boxed for 15 years. It will only run in reverse and there are no switches on the engine anywhere. I think we used to change directions by moving the voltage regulator to off and then back on but that does nothing now. It just runs in reverse. Why would this be?”
SUBMIT YOUR QUESTION
Download Your Free Catalog
Use Tiny Railroad Micro Controllers
Model Train Help Ebook
