Everything on model trains, model railroads, model railways, locomotives, model train layouts, scenery, wiring, DCC and more. Enjoy the world's best hobby... model railroading!
Why Does My Train Only Run In Reverse?
Warren asks readers:
“I have a Lionel engine with 8604 on side. It has been boxed for 15 years. It will only run in reverse and there are no switches on the engine anywhere. I think we used to change directions by moving the voltage regulator to off and then back on but that does nothing now. It just runs in reverse. Why would this be?”
Simulating Smoke and Steam The Cheap Way
Online Train Club Member Terry sent in this quick tip to share:
“I know there are ways to simulate real smoke and steam with smoke machines, but I use an old tried and proven cheap method. All I do is take a tiny amount of cotton and stick inside a steam stack or diesel exhaust. The trick is to not use too much, or make it too high, because that could look fake and even catch on the top of tunnel portals and other things. Use a very small wisp of cotton, just enough to catch and trick the eye into believing the smoke or steam is real and moving upward. It works for me.”
Kato 22-018 and 22-018 Power Packs for HO and N scale?
Allen P asks:
“Kato is said to sell power packs that are for both HO and N scale. I find that a bit far fetched??? The model number 22-014. I also saw one with the number 22-018, so I’m a bit confused?”
Add your feedback and suggestions below.
How Do Old Locomotives Compare With Today’s Locos?
Colin T wants to here your thoughts:
“I have seen an old HO blue box Athearn EMD SW1200 locomotive that I can buy really cheap. I like it because it’s nicely detailed but heard that older locos like this are not as good to run, being more noisy, not so smooth, and less reliable than their modern counterparts? Is that generally the case? Are they hard to service? I am not so worried about the cost (about $30 to buy) but don’t want to waste loads of time fiddling with it to keep it operating. I know how frustrating that can be. Does someone have old and new locos who could comment? If you have experience with the same Athearn ever better.”
Add your comment below.
Electrical Connection Problem with Arnold 2950 S-Bahn
Chris models N scale and sent in this question for readers:
“The wire between the end wagon and the power train severed during shipping, despite proper packaging. I don’t have much wiggle room to solder the wires together and am afraid to open the unit further due to accidental destruction. The connection is broken between the coupling bridger going into the the cabin that is the main power train for the locomotive. It is the DB Series 420 running from the 1960 to the 1990 in Munich and other cities.
Any suggestions? The train runs great and two of the three wagons light up, except the the one with the severed connection.
Use the link below to send in your model railroading questions for publication.
Making Linings For Inside Tunnel
Online Train Club member Ross sent this:
“I have a plan to make the lining for my tunnel using foam-core board. It doesn’t matter if I use black foam board or white because it will be covered anyway. My thinking is to cut out three pieces (2 sides and tunnel roof) to 16 inches in length. I saw where you cover each piece of foam with plaster gauze before applying Sculptamold. When dried properly, I will spray each length with matt black paint before gluing the 3 pieces together. Once in place, I intend attaching the portals and retaining walls I have already made from plans I downloaded. They turned out good. Then I will build the mountain and greenery on top. I think it should all come together nicely. Have I missed anything?”
Opinions on Instant Roadbed Please
Ryan has this question:
“I was told about a product called Instant Roadbed, and wondered if it is any good? No glue is needed as it has self adhesive backing, but I was wondering how long this would last? I was told you just lay track and ballast on top and that both can be removed if needed without wrecking things. This sounds good, but I question if the the Instant Roadbed tape might start lifting over time? It does interest me because it sounds easy and less messy and quicker than other methods, but I don’t want to lay my track and ballast with the stuff only to regret it. I guess I could use it for making roads, and sidewalks too? Has anyone used it with success or otherwise?”
Send your question in for publication. See the link below.
Plans For Finely Detailed House Designs
Downloadable plans for these photo-realistic house plans. Make them to OO gauge, N scale or HO scale. https://www.modelbuildings.org/residential/
Engine Short Circuit
Aiden has this question for readers:
“When I put power to the track one of my OO engines short circuit making me lose power to the track. If I unplug it and wait 10 seconds then plug it back in and try another train that train works. I have Hornby equipment.”
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How To Glue Photo Backdrop To MDF
Walt H posted this question:
“I would like some suggestions for gluing printed photographic backdrops to MDF board? I don’t want any thing that dries to quick as I will need to work the backdrop down in between the substrate and scenery. I will also need time to make sure the edges are plumb. That’s why I can’t use spray adhesive. Ideas from people who have done would be good.”
Send you question to the Blog Moderator and have it published. The link is underneath this post.
Bachmann HO Scale EMD GP40 Locomotive Derails
Trevor W asks readers:
“I’m finding my Bachmann HO Scale EMD GP40 loco derails at different spots along the track and it’s not happening with my other engine. I sense it could be a power or wiring issue as it is a bit sluggish at times. I recently did redo a large portion of my track and the problem has started since doing that, so wonder if that has contributed. What would be my best course of action for resolving this problem please.”
Add your comment or answer below.
Making Tunnel Portals The Easy way
A tunnel is a superb scenic feature for making the eye believe the miniature world is much bigger than it actually is. A tunnel can hide the train for a brief period of time, enabling the eye to imagine that the train has left the vicinity for a destination further away. The point where the train reappears from the other end of the tunnel, it is possible to imagine that the training exiting the tunnel is a completely different train arriving from another location. Let your imagination run wild!
Downloadable plans for tunnel portal. Make them to OO gauge, N scale or HO scale. https://www.modelbuildings.org/walls-tunnels-bridges/
Avoiding Damage When Relocating A Model Railroad Damage
Luc sent in this question and is hoping a reader can advise him:
“I had a model train layout 3m x 4 m all around the room, with hole in the middle a long time ago. I had to take it apart as we moved to another house. Luckily iI only had the tracks installed, placed a house etc, but no scenery yet, so nothing was fixed in place. So everything could be re-used and not much work was required or material was lost. So all my trains are form before 2000 (Roco, Fleischmann) so are non DCC. I have a few with Fleischmann FMZ (I guess worthless today)
Since then I had no spare time to start this up again because I was working on the house , garden etc. Now I am bit older at 62 (more time) and I want to build it up again, with a new track plan, studying about DCC, what is on the market, block system etc.
My question is this – what is needed to make sure that the model train layout is not to be destroyed when one needs to move it again for some reason? (e.g. I die and the kids want to keep it for them or their children, or someone wants to buy it).
It would be a pity if it needs to be destroyed after many years of work, right? How do other people live with this idea, or is breaking down scenery no issue?
This time I will be a symmetrical U shape design, with each leg of the U will around 122cm width and the whole layout fits in 3m x4 m.
I thought I would build the whole thing and make sure that at the junction of each U leg things are double fitted (one on each leg). That way one can saw/cut it when needed with less damage, and cut the tracks there when needed. I would make sure no housing is there, or take them away? I want to keep the damage as low as possible. Also all the wires will need to be cut. So I would cut it in pieces of max 122cm x 244cm (the size of on original wood panel)
The other way is modular as you said, but what does that include from the start? Does it not put a limitation on the track layout (long tracks at a station)? What does one do with the structures and housing, glue them on the scenery? The scenery, the tracks , how to make it modular? Thanks in advance.”
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