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Adding Hidden Pulling Power To A Train
Ghan Train Australia
Purna asks readers the following:
“Can I make my HO scale train more powerful by adding more locos which are “hidden” in the skin of carriages? Will it be effective? And can all such locos be synchronized well (without derailing etc.) Is DCC good for that? My real objective is to make a GHAN train with two visible locos (even though the rest of the powering locos are hidden) with a number of carriages about 50 in my model layout… Have any of you tried doing this? Will the power of the train drop if the track is too steep or with lot of bends”
The Ghan’s 2,979km (1850 mile) journey takes 48 hours and has been operating from the through central Australia since 1878. The train runs from the far south up through the middle of Australia to the far north. The Ghan was originally called the Afghan Express. The Ghan name is from 19th century Afghan camel drivers who ventured to Australia to help to explore the country’s remote largely arid interior.
Getting Atlas Switch Tracks to Operate Properly
Paul posted this question:
“I am having trouble getting my N scale Atlas switch tracks to work. I have tried all different wiring configurations. They will throw in one direction and when I try the other direction, all I get is a hum from the switching machine mounted on the track. The hum tells me they are getting current but nothing happens. If it were only one track, I would chalk it up to a defect in that track, but it is all of them (8). Very frustrating. Hope you can help. Thanks.”
Contribute your comment, photo, diagram using the COMMENTS tag directly under Paul’s post.
Reverse Loop Shorting Out
HO enthusiast David G asks readers this:
“I’m DCC – an NCE 5 amp. Am attempting to wire MRC auto reverse module. Loop returns back to main track thru set of points but shorts when points are set to left. Have isolated insulfrog point ends still same prob. One engine has enough weight to run thru without derailing when points straight ahead without derailing. Hookup cars won’t do same.”
You can submit your question to the Blog Moderator for publishing by clicking one of the several ASK A QUESTION links on this blog.
Making Fuel Tanks For A Model Train Layout
Garry W, a member of the Online Model Train Club from Caboolture near Brisbane in Australia, snapped this photo at a local model railway exhibition. Garry queried how these fuel tanks were made. He thought they looked scratch built from recycled plastic containers, and would like to hear what others think. Gary pointed out, “They certainly add interest set alongside the track, but I did wonder if they were too close to moving (potentially derailing) trains?”
If you have any thoughts on making fuel tanks or have a photo to share, just submit your contribution using the COMMENTS link under this posting. You will also be able to see what others sent in.
Ideas for Desert Scene Wanted
Morgan is looking for ideas and inspiration from experienced railroaders:
“I am planning a totally false HO model rr. It is the PRR in west TX. Now, the layout is shelf, and minimal scenery. But, has anyone experience with modeling the desert/mountain area of west TX? What is the best ballast to use? What colors of paint should I buy and where can I get pictures of the tracks out there? I live near DFW and can’t get to the west. Don’t drive anymore, etc. Best of all would be pictures of your model rr with that type of scenery. Thanks.”
Readers can add a comment and/or upload a photo using the COMMENTS link under Morgan’s post.
HO Track Separation
Online Model Train Club Member Ben submitted this query:
“I have limited space so want my opposing tracks close enough not to waste space, but far enough apart not to cause collisions or look fake. How far apart should I make them?”
Add your comments (or view all comments) using the COMMENTS link. Submit a question using the ASK A QUESTION link. Easy!
Nightmare Wiring Switches
A question for readers from Phillip in Chatswood, Sydney, Australia:
“My single track layout will be laid out over 2m by 3m. I’ve never wired switches but read up about it a bit and want to know the pitfalls to avoid in advance. Much appreciated for letting me post this.”
Submit your question to the Blog Moderator for publication by using one of the ASK A QUESTION links on this blog.
Walthers Cornerstone Motorized 130′ Turntable Not Working
Wolfgang posted this question:
“Hello Friends, this afternoon my N scale Walthers cornerstone turntable stopped working. Instead of Power Control LED shows ‘on’ the bridge doesn’t work. What can I do? Thanks for any helpful ideas. I am living in Germany and maintenance by a hobby shop is not easy to get.”
Post your question to the Blog Moderator by using one of the many ASK A QUESTION links on this page.
What’s the Loco Number Limit in DCC Zones?
Geoff has this question:
“I’m new to DCC. I’m planning a small UK OO narrow gauge layout. The system I bought has an output of 2 amps. The circuit protector can have up to six zones, but 1 amp each. The docs say that the 2 amps will power up to 4 HO locomotives at one time, but am I right in thinking that the circuit protector will limit that to 2 in each zone? The docs for the circuit protector say you can connect it in such a way to have 3 zones 2 amps each, which perhaps is what I need to do?”
How Would a Dentist Fill The Gaps Between Tracks?
Online Train Club member Joshua is not a Dentist but asks:
“I know when I go to the dentist he tells be to floss between the gaps in my teeth. He doesn’t seem to want to close the gaps, whereas on my railroad that’s precisely what I want to do. I want to leave tiny gaps 1/32th between track to allow for movement, but I have 4 gaps closer to 1/16th. How can I fill these or should I make an appointment with my Dentist? Ha! Ha!”
Keeping Track of Small Parts
Online Model Train Club member Erik shared this suggestion:
“I know some folk in the hobby use masking tape to hold small screws and parts to stop them rolling under the layout and getting lost. It is a very good idea, but I have another option to add to that.
My local hardware store sells small 5″ bowls with a magnet attached. One of these bowl is ideal for holding small steel parts.”
Auto Reverse Module – Digitrax and MRC Cab Controller Compatibility
William posted this question to readers:
“I have On30 and M.E. track and turnouts and DCC Cab Controller. I would like to install an automated reverse loop (does not to be that big as I will be running Porters with a few mining cars.)
I am electronically “challenged” and could use advice on what all I would need to set it up. I am in the planning stage now but I would like to know how to wire the turnout and loop section up front to see how feasible my idea is to have trains running on a continual basis in and out of the loop without needing to be manually operated. Is a module AR1 or the like all that is needed or do I need some type of ‘block’ detection? And are Digitrax and MRC cab controllers compatible as far as these loop modules concerned?”
What Height Should A Water Tower Be?
David models in HO and has this question:
“I want to build a water tower for stream engines. Can anyone give size I need to build one please?”
If you would like to have your question published, simply use the ‘ASK A QUESTION’ link below one of the blog postings. Your question will then be reviewed by the Blog Moderator and when approved will be published. Note – some question don’t get published if they are confusing, lack the necessary details, or have bad spelling etc. It is the Blog Moderators job (a voluntary position) to maintain a good quality for the benefit of all readers.
Trains Ran Well Before Ballasting
Rhalf models HO and has this question:
“My trains were running well until I ballast half the track. Now I find I have no power to the track at all where whereas I did before.
I have been relying solely on rail joiners to transmit current between track sections, so I suspect adhesive or bits of ballast have probably fallen into the joiners somewhere on the track…creating an insulated joint.
Do I need to solder the rail joiners to the track? If so, how far apart? I thought maybe I should add a feeder to each section of track giving each its own power supply? Feedback would be good.”
Truck and Coupler Replacement on Passenger Cars
Robert M models N scale and asks:
“I am just starting out in model railroading and would like to change the trucks on my passenger cars to 6 wheel trucks with knuckle couplings. I am not sure what would work best and would appreciate any advice and suggestions. I have little knowledge in terms so it would have to be rather straight forward. Thanks.”
Adhesives for Wiring a Slip Switch to Control a Model Railroad Turnout
Bert poses this question and hopes for feedback from knowledgeable model railroaders:
“I want to use a slip switch to control a model railroad turnout. I have fabricated linkages using Evergreen Styrene and heavy florist wire. The connection between the turnout points and the slip switch is two pieces of wire connected with a styrene tube forming one continuous rod. Try as I may, I have yet to find an adhesive that will significantly bond the wire inside the styrene tube. Even though I allow an adhesive to cure for 24 hours, after a few toggles on the switch, the wire becomes loose and is no longer attached.
Any thoughts on what adhesive I should pursue? Thus far I have used Insta-Cure CA Super Thin, Maxi-Cure CA Extra Thick, Tamiya Extra-Thin Cement, and Red Baron Adhesive (Thin and Medium).
If the wire/styrene combo will not work, I’ll have use another alternative. Thanks in advance for your thoughts and suggestions.”
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