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Engine Problems With Train Set
Mark Rauen makes this observation of a model train set he purchased:
“I cannot speak to anything other than what I have but…
I purchased a used Bachmann Diesel Express HO Train Set. In addition I purchased a new unopened Bachmann Track Pack (Steel Alloy E-Z Track with black bed.) When I run the train around the fixed circle track it runs fine, when I run it on an oval it is fine up to about 80% throttle. When I use the turnouts the cars derail almost every time no matter what the speed. These are remote activation turnouts. And here is what happens. (Gleaned from keen observation over a few hours of trying variations of numerous adjustments and work arounds.)
When the turnouts are set for the straight away the cars can be run up to full speed without derailing. When the turnout is switched to the curve the cars derail as soon as the trailing end of the engine starts the turn.
Here is my opinion of the problem; poor design and cheap construction.
Let me explain.
When my engine is traveling straight everything is fine, when the engine starts into the the 18″ radius turn the coupler moves a bit to the left or right. (I have the old style HO Universal Horn Hook couplers.) This pushes the coupler on the rolling stock coupler, which is still moving straight, to the right or left. At up to 80% throttle the rolling stock can handle this pressure and stay on track. At full speed it will derail 1 out of 5 times. When it hits the turnout it will ALWAYS derail at any speed. The reason is the locomotive coupler pushes sideways on the stock coupler too hard and the taper of the cheap plastic wheels forces the forward truck of the stock to move in the opposite direction of the turn. This causes the front wheels of the forward truck to ride up on and over the rail. The lighter the rolling stock the easier it is to derail. I tried adding weights to the front of the stock and saw a minor improvement, 1 out of 10 times it stayed on the track at up to 40% power.
This is where I place the blame squarely on the design. From my experience the rolling stock is far too light. They added a lot of weight to the engine for obvious reasons but then they made the cars as light as possible to save on cost. It would have been nothing for them to add a weight in the base of the car or even in the trucks of the stock themselves.
In my opinion this ‘toy rolling stock’ offers nothing but frustration to new people like me and my grandson. I suspect that the weight needed to keep these cars on the track would cost the manufacturer a few cents per axle? I think this is right because that is what I paid for the material and I am not a factory buying in large quantity.
I have bought my last Bachmann product, not even used.
Can You Ballast Bachmann EZ Track?
Another Online Train Club Member Steve posted this question:
“I’ve finally got most of my track down. I used Bachmann EZ Track. Now that it’s down I wouldn’t mind having a go at ballasting. A friend warned me against it and suggested maybe just painting it to add realism. Has anyone ballasted EZ track with any success or is it a crazy idea?
The Difference Between a Single Slip and Double Slip
Online Train Club Member Henry J sent in this question for readers:
“Maybe the old brain isn’t working right (not an uncommon occurrence :), but I’m confused about understand the differences between a single slip and a double slip and what each does?”
Replacing Old Couplers With Kadee Lookalikes
Ross wants to hear what others think:
“I am looking to replace the horn hook couplers on several older freight cars. I spotted some Kadee clones that will fit into the coupler mounts on the trucks. Am I wasting my time buying the knock-off clones which are cheaper, or should I stick with Kadee. I know sometimes you pay extra for a brand name. Does anyone have experience using both?”
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Cleaning Oxidized Track Ready For Soldering Droppers
Online Train Club member Erik has this question for fellow hobbyists:
“I want to clean some old oxidized track as I want be solder droppers on various part of the track. I had a go scrubbing it using a small stiff wire brush with borax powder and some sugar soap. I’ve only done a couple of pieces as it is such a slow job. Is there a easier and better way to bring the shine back? I thought about using a fiber glass pencil, but I think it would be messy and will wear away to fast. I thought someone might know of a ‘secret solution’ of chemicals I could use to make the task easier?”
Add your comment below if you can assist Erik.
Ideas for Food Industry on Layout
A question from another readers:
“Hello I am wanting to build a new HO scale layout I want a food factory on this layout and another industry. It needs to fit in a very small space 1 and a half feet by no more the 9-8 inches please give me tips and advice thanks – Brock Ian”
Add you suggestion (and view suggestions from others) using the COMMENTS tag below.
Wiring an Atlas Switch with a Plastic Frog in a DCC Environment
Tom has this question for readers:
“I use Tortoise switch machines to control my HO switches. I would like to use the switch machine to change the current for the switched rails but don’t know understand where to connect the changing current lead from the tortoise as there does not appear to be a common point for both rails coming off the frog. Do I just solder is to both of the rails coming off the frog or is there a better/more correct way to do it?”
Add your answer, or view answers using the COMMENTS tag below.
How Many Power Districts Are Needed?
Ho railroader Joseph asks:
“Hello all. I have a medium size layout in my basement. It’s 303 feet of track total. 3 continues loops. I’m going to separate into 5 different power districts. Do I need a separate booster for all 5 districts?”
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