Hugo Miguel Baptista says:

Hi: I start a few months back too: Can i give a newbie advice to a newbie Modeller?

Cheers

R. Olivarez says:

Mr. Baptista, I don’t see why you can not offer a suggestion to a fellow train modeler. Who knows, your suggestion might be something that the of us did not thing of.

Thelma, I have just one warning: This is NOT a cheap hobby! As one modeler to another, welcome. My suggestion for your situation, is to:
1) Go to your local main library and read the various books and magazines that they may have on the subject of model railroads.
2) Visit your local model train club(s) in your area and ask to be an observer. Watch what goes on. Politely ask question. Also, check your local hobby shop’s model train department. Check out their books and magazines. If you find a book or magazine of interest, buy it, take it home and read it, front cover to back cover, then read it a second time.
3) If you still find it interesting, think of what time period and area that you want to model. Again, read up on the type of trains used for the time period and area that you are interested in modeling..
4) With paper and pencil, draw up a several basic track layouts with what you want on your layout. Don’t forget the type of terrain and scenery that you want to have. Will it be modeled from a real location or do you want a fictional location? Will it be a city scene, an industrial scene, a rural scene or a combination of scenes?
5) After you decide what you want, I suggest going to your local hobby shop that has a decent sized model train department and talk to the clerk there and tell him your plan(s) and ask them for a suggested train set to start with. A basic but decent train set can cost you about $100 or more. After your purchase, take it home and set up the basic loop as shown in the directions on a large table or on the floor that does not have a carpet. Remember not to throw out the box it cane in. You’ll want the box to store the train in while working on your layout Drive the train to get the general feel of running it. Run it fast and run it slow and watch and feel how it handles.
6) This is the point that you actually get started. With your basic track layout drawings, think and visualize how it may look on the 4′ x 8′ panel. I would recommend a simple one to start with. Remember, your can add to it later when you get to be more confident with your skills.
8) This is where you take over. Remember this above all else: This is your hobby to enjoy and be proud of. Don’t be discouraged by what others say or think you should do with this hobby. If they disapprove, you can show them the door to leave by. You first layout may not be a super layout, but with time and practice, your skills will improve. Keep in mind, the world was not completed in a day.

Henry Robbins says:

Thelma , I agree with R. Olivarez. I have been modeling for 35 years and now have a large layout. I started out using sectional track ,but soon found out that you can not make the curves you may need. I switched to PECO flex track and all the sectional track pieces were removed. I started out with code 100 track so I am still using that type. I do believe that the rivet counters would say UGH to that but it works for me. The most important rule is to make sure your joins are smooth and even. Then you will have less derailments. The larger you can make your curves the better. This is really important if you are going to run steam engines and long cars.

Ron says:

Find a train club in your area. NMRA has divisions all over. Some of them have clinics for beginners that can answer most of your questions. My club has a clinic on the 2nd Saturday of each month and there are usually at least 5 long time modelers there to help you. We do this every years starting around September to May. Your local NMRA division can guide you to a clinic.

Newman Atkinson says:

Thelma,
It can be expensive if you let it. But it does not have to be. I build car kits instead of ready to roll. Or I buy used at the local train shows and as necessary I fix them up. I have been in this for years and I buy used and inexpensive, change a few wheels and couplers and adjust the cars and there you go.
I use Atlas code 100 flex track personally and when done right it will save you a lot of unnecessary connections and smoother running. I still use sectional track where I cross over from one module to another like the clubs do. But instead of putting them in so you can break it down to go to shows, I use them to cross from one module to another so if I need to break it down to move, or get something in the room or what ever. I have learned that many people will build a layout only to find that their company they work for has moved their job to another town and those that don’t have it so it breaks down, end up taking an axe to it and start over in their new home.
If you are just starting out and wish to get something small I suggest sectional track with as much radius as you can get. Most good cars and engines will need at least 22 inch radius curves to make the Turns. Very in-expensive engines and cars can go tighter usually an 18 inch radius but soon you will be finding a better engine or longer cars and all of a sudden your radius of your track will be to tight for them to run on. With flex track you can go what ever radius you wish to have. I run 28 to 40 inch on my layout with only a few small radius in the yard at 22 inches that is my tightest. Flex track will have to have some cutting of the rail and filing the burs off them to match up with the next piece, especially in the turns. What ever track you decide to use if you start getting longer than a small loop you will want to connect power to the rails every 4 to eight feet if track to ensure you don’t start getting power loss through all the rail connection in the track. The brand of track usually doesnot matter too much, the material does. Brass verses steal or Nichel-silver can. Steel track (and sometimes beginners sets still have that,) will corrode and rust over time making bad connections. In a basement location it won’t take long. Brass gets tarnished quicker but works well when clean. I think the the most popular now is the nickel silver. If you cannot figure out what you have then just take a magnet to the rail and it the magnet sticks it in most likely steel or some kind like that. Nickel Silver track will not stick to the magnet. Switches, most beginners will go for the sharp #4 switches but as those first better, larger engines and cars start adding to your fleet you will find they cannot handle the sharp curve of the switch of 18 inches or less. I would use no. 6’s or about 22 to to 26 inch radius switches and that makes it a lot easier to use better equipment into your sidings. If you have questions as you go don’t hesitate to ask. There are a lot of us out here(we all do different things and the way we build them, and we may not know the answer to your question, But most of us can sure tell you what not to do as it probably happened to us. from Newman