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Converting to DCC

Club member Arnold has been railroading for over 35 years and sent in this article to share:

Contrary to what some people think, wiring for DCC wiring can actually be easier than the older style DC wiring.

Let’s look at some DC scenarios. An older DC layout might have a very basic loop with 2 wires attached at one location, whereas a more complex DC layout might need insulated rails and more power wires leading off to extra sidings (and sections) where you would probably need to turn off one train on one track to run another. If you wanted a couple of trains to operate on the same track you would more than likely separate the run into multiple sections. In that way you could turn off one train to prevent it from getting in close proximity to the train a head of it. Naturally each train would need to be within it’s own section to achieve this. So, unless you have a setup with a double pole switch to an individual section – the trains would all run in the same direction. So, as you can see there are limitations with DC operations.

Compare that to DCC where it’s easy to run bus wires under the baseboard, and then link to the rails using feeder wires. By doing that the power is on and can be left on all the time covering the entire layout. In effect, instead of having multiple wiring feeding out from your switchboard, you only need two main feeder wires.

So despite what you might have heard; wiring for DCC is simpler than for DC. I personally think it is well worthwhile converting over, and it opens up new operational possibilities. However if you are still operating DC, then just switch everything on (in the proper direction), and instead of the old transformer, link up DCC and you’ll have a DCC layout. That said; if your track has long runs you’ll need wire leads following the track beneath and link up extra wire drops along the way (with strong enough wire).

7 Responses to Converting to DCC

  • Owen says:

    having changed over to DCC fron DC,
    There is so much more you can do with your trains.
    Depanding on the size of your layout, wiring is so much easier.
    No block control wiring, alot less switches needed on your control panels.

    You still need to manger power disructs on a DCC layout.
    Use of a good ciruict breakers , make it so much easier.
    Also reverse loop wiring can be made auto these days.

    Have a good look at all the makers of DCC and find te best system for you and what features that brand offers,

    Owen

  • Peter says:

    Dcc is the way to go in my opinion as you can start up locos or shut them down when you want to bring them out of the Loco sheds.I avoid doing return loops or dogbones as you need to buy the reversing switch for them.I love the sound features and the smoke as well.I model American as that is what i began in years ago.I use NCE and have not used any other system.I almost always buy BLI Locos as they are Dcc ready with Sound and smoke,strait from the box to the track with all the features is so nice. You can Also buy the Dcc ready Locos from other manufacturers and buy the decoders and sound card and speaker and fit them later.And many Dcc locos can still run on Dc layouts.You can also have isolating tracks in your loco Sheds etc if want to isolate them completley I like to be able to reset the Loco to Factory settings when ever you want.You can buy a programer and reset the decoders to your own liking so that if you have to do a reset it will go back to what you set up for yourself. It really is good as you can adjust so many settings in cluding the top speed etc,great when you have o fast people using the controllers.Regarding the track for Dcc it is advisable to still have sections, if you have any trouble you can select or turn of sections till you isolate the section that is causing the trouble,Its no fun trying to find a short when you are scratching your head trying to find it on a larger layout.Hope this is of help to those who are contemplating changing to Dcc.Of Course the Locos are more expensive but the added features are really exellent,Though not all think like this.You can also operate many features from your controller such as Point motors ,Lights crossings etc,but you need to buy the decoders for them to work.Some care still needs to be taken when wiring as isolating joiners having opposite polarites either side of the Joiner will cause trouble for the Dcc decoders,you may turn your loco to a smoker for a few seconds before it becomes unresponsive for good.

  • steve says:

    well let see . on dc you lights com on when you start to move . on dcc you can cut them on before you move and thay are bright. on dc you only can run and control one train at a time in one direction . on dcc you can run two plus going in both directions. or on the same track behind the other one.and with dc you can,t . on dc only have one speed control with dcc. you have two and can add others and someone can run another train without controling yours. on dc try to run more then one loco. hard to do with dcc you can run four loco up front one in the middle of the train and one pushing at the end if you want. its worth it to change up. wire not as hard as you think if you have a dc layout you could leave it and just jump out the blocks so the whold track gets power. you just cant loop back on itself . you do have to add something for that. and with dcc you have more power to run trains i have a 20 amp power supply feeding four district each 5 amps . each you wont never run more then five amps in once.

  • Keith Hoadley says:

    I still find dcc confusing. Some people find that you need to wire each piece of track. Others say that there is no need to wire each individual piece.
    So what am I suppose to believe? I still want my next layout to be dcc, I think it is the right step.

    • Paul says:

      Hi Keith,
      Before I switched to DCC, if the rail joiners were not soldered, I had feeder wires for every track section. It just made for better electrical pickup. I still do the same in DCC. I do not think it is an absolute necessity, but well worth the extra time and little bit of solder and wire. So to each their own.
      Paul

  • Rand says:

    It’s not hard to understand why DCC has become so popular. Arguably it’s a “no-brainer” to opt for DCC. But when one inherits over 100 DC loco’s to add to his that were purchased in the 1960’s, one needs to decide if he wants to convert only a few loco’s and keep the rest as museum pieces (or try to sell them in a DCC dominated market) or if he wants a layout on which his entire livery can operate. For the hobbiest who enjoys making conversions and can afford it – great. Enjoy! But if one prefers scenery building or operating trains, building a new DC layout still has merit.

  • Leslie D. Foran says:

    I disagree. DC is pretty simple and straightforward. It is very easy to troubleshoot. No decoders to program or to malfunction mysteriously. Any loco in the scale you are using will work.
    DCC was oversold with the claim that “you can control your whole railroad with only two wires.” Not very well. The same can be said for DC.
    With DCC, you have a fairly high voltage on all tracks at all time, unless you isolate them (as you would for DC). DCC involves more expensive power packs, and decoders.
    When I built my current model railroad, I could have built a DCC system, but did not want to. I would rather spend my money on DC locomotives, could use my existing locomotives without modification, and spend my money on cars, scenery, and trackwork.

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