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Locomotive Stalling But No Shorting
HO enthusiast Carl has this question for readers:
“Hi guys, I’m having trouble with my new BLI S-3. The loco runs fine, except on my turnouts.I have both Peco and Atlas,and it stalls on all of them. Not shorting though, as power stays on the rest of my layout. I’m at a loss, because my other steamers run fine. I have a challenger, a class A, and a 2-8-2. I’ve tried insulating the turnouts, taping over the frogs,and rewiring. It’s the only one of my 14 locks that does this. Any ideas would be appreciated, or has anyone else had this problem? Thanks.”
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I don’t think it’s a track issue .check the pic up on the loco some were the power is lost turn out slide wheels to the side and you could be loosing power
Do some cleaning, to the rails. It also could be
that the joint connections isn’t making a good
electrical contact. You might have to solder the
joint connections. Most of the time the rail joiners
Don’t make a good electrical connection.
Tim
I had a similar problem with one loco on one switch. Six or eight ran through it fine, this one would stall out. I cleaned and measured and went crazy before discovering that the wheels on this one loco shifted just enough to break contact in the turn. Replaced the turnout and have not had any problems since.
Internal engine contacts to motor when wheel carriage in turn position
That’s what I would look at. Maybe I’d power engine up with wire or a track you can let it
Make contact like just the front carriage and manipulate engine left and right to see
If it fails…if other engines are fine track is fine … I’d look at your new engine..””
Hi, this problem might be easier than you think, firstly always check for dirty rail in the spot we’re the loco stalls, secondly make sure that you have the right pos/neg connection wiring for these points, thirdly, make sure that the wheels are clean, lastly without inspecting this problem it’s very hard to diagnose but I hope this is of some help, cheers.
P.S I feel the second suggestion might be the prob.
It sounds like the loco wheels are losing contact with one of the moving rails.
Check if the moving rails are live when the turnout is switched either way.
Check if the loco has all wheel pick-up – if not, can you add contacts for this ?
An S-3 diesel switcher has two trucks, so I would expect at least one of them to remain fully in contact (if you have all-wheel pick-up).
If you are talking about the 4-8-4 S-3 steam loco, then several wheels should be picking up current.
Please let us know your progress.
I suggest you mark where the loco is stalling, then check track with VOM and see IF all have power. My other guess is your switches are not level, as a result some of the wheels are not making contract. Diesels with 6 wheel trucks are usually the problem.
Check your power pickups on the loco…. If only one wheel is picking up power, it will produce exactly the symptoms you have described.
I have similar problems with pre-owned locos.
After a thorough clean up of all components,track,wheels,brushes in the motor everything make sure you have no dry surfaces
I had this problem on my previous layouts but on my current one, I made sure that I had power to both ends of the turnouts, and not rely on power in the switching blade making contact with the rail. If the little lug under the blade weakens, then could have pour electrical contact with the rail. I don’t know if that solves your problem.
Broadway limited locomotives are far more sensitive than others locos that I have. They have a tendency to stall and sometimes I need to change the Cv program. I have Bachmann, kato and Broadway limited and they are the only ones that stall however they also are best sounding and best looking so I deal with it. I find that after they run through few minutes the stalling stops. . But I would contact bl and discuss the issue and reprogramming
It might be the Length of the wheel base, reason 2-8-2 and the challenger are longer. Iam just guessing not sure.
Can you tell me the manufacturer of the locos? Is this happening only on the mentioned locos or do others run fine? Are the frogs powered or insulated? If there are no shorts…taping over the frogs will not be of help. I can research the locos if I know who made them and then give you more troubleshooting advice.
For a DC layout, if it is not shorting it must be a pickup problem with the locomotive. Sometimes the plastic frog causes an opposite pickup wheel to lift off the rail hence breaking the circuit. Also check the gauge to make sure the loco is not jamming in the check rails.
Check wheel flange height on the loco. Then check the flange-way depth on the turnout. If the wheel flange bottoms-out this will raise the loco slightly and break wheel contact with the rail resulting in loss of power.
Otherwise, cleaning of track and loco wheels may help.
If it’s only on the turnouts, I would check to see if the points are making good contact with the stock rail. Most track cleaning methods deal only with the tops of the rails. I find that I need an occasional swipe on the faces of the points and stock rails with a micro-brush doused in 91% alcohol or acetone (nail polish remover).
Hi Carl I had Broadway Limited locos a PA 1 with 2 PB’s hooked up to it all powered and also a Centipede . They look great sound great,but when it came to reliability they are like a Ferrari without an engine looks great but pretty useless so now they are where they belong IN THE BIN. Now I don’t have anymore problems with stalling locos. If you want reliability you can’t get much better than Kato they are all I run now and I can’t fault them. Some say they are expensive but Broadway don’t come cheap either. Get rid and become a happy railroader use the BL for scenery as they are not much good for anything else. Good Luck if you keep the BL you’ll need it Graeme
Run the loco with your finger on it and add a little weight to it, it may be to lite around the corners and the wheels come off on the turns
Is it just this loco on this set of points? If so then I would suggest all of the above diagnostics AND checking wheel back to back, gauge and quartering. If all your other locos go through without issue then the points are not to blame.
All suggestions covered in replies.
Taking what you report at face value, sounds like a problem with the loco. You say, “It stalls on ALL turnouts” and you other locos do not. IF it is still under warranty, DO NOT take any screws out of the loco as that could void the warranty! Do you have access to another layout?
Which truck is on the turnout when it stalls? Does it stall in reverse?
Contact your dealer if it’s still in warranty or call customer service at BLI.
Thanks everyone. As I have 11+ amps around the layout, I’m going to try getting the loco cleaned. I’ll keep you posted. Carl
I too have both Atlas & Peco rails & points and had the same problem; one of my engines would not go over one of my point’s —- When looking closely at that point found it wasn’t making contact on the turn-out. I then used a ‘spare relay contact’ and switched across the frog on the turn out. No further problems.
Hope this helps. Wally
Try this run your engine on the turnout when it stalls leave the power on and get a light bulb and touch the sides of the track to see if you have power where the wheels are making contact if so move the engine an see if it runs if so it sounds like the pickups on your engine are spaced too close when you engine it goes through the turnout it loses contact I am a Lionel guy and I had similar with my layout I hope this helps you.