Everything on model trains, model railroads, model railways, locomotives, model train layouts, scenery, wiring, DCC and more. Enjoy the world's best hobby... model railroading!

background buildings model trains

Adhesives for Wiring a Slip Switch to Control a Model Railroad Turnout

Bert poses this question and hopes for feedback from knowledgeable model railroaders:

“I want to use a slip switch to control a model railroad turnout.  I have fabricated linkages using Evergreen Styrene and heavy florist wire.  The connection between the turnout points and the slip switch is two pieces of wire connected with a styrene tube forming one continuous rod.  Try as I may, I have yet to find an adhesive that will significantly bond the wire inside the styrene tube.  Even though I allow an adhesive to cure for 24 hours, after a few toggles on the switch, the wire becomes loose and is no longer attached.

Any thoughts on what adhesive I should pursue?  Thus far I have used Insta-Cure CA Super Thin, Maxi-Cure CA Extra Thick, Tamiya Extra-Thin Cement, and Red Baron Adhesive (Thin and Medium).

If the wire/styrene combo will not work, I’ll have use another alternative. Thanks in advance for your thoughts and suggestions.”

5 Responses to Adhesives for Wiring a Slip Switch to Control a Model Railroad Turnout

  • Timothy Morlok says:

    Hi Bert. Have you thought about making a mechanical connection between the wires and the styrene? You could drill a small hole near each end of the tube and thread a small setscrew that is slightly larger than the hole to secure the wire inside the tube. You could also try scoring the wires to create a rough surface on the ends of the wires and use an adhesive/glue that melts the styrene so that it adheres to the grooves in the wire. Good luck with your project.

  • Geoff Stagg says:

    The only way I can think to get the adhesive to work would be to try and make a twist in the wire as it goes into the styrene tube so you aren’t trying to glue a straight piece of wire. ie some sort of spiral so that the wire can’t just pull out of the glue. But I have to say that a mechanical connection as Timothy suggests sounds a lot better.

  • Kevin Ching says:

    Hi Bert
    I use piano wire for this at 1.3mm solid core we have it available at our craft stores here it is available in 1 meter lengths and i run this through flexible curtain wire at corners or at points i use model aircraft plastic quadrants screwed to the base board so that they can move. the wire if bent to a right angle it will fit in the holes in the quadrant.

  • Bernard Hallas says:

    If you really must use a metal wire to styrene tube, a combination of a spiral on the wire, or flatten the end 1/4 inch (Hammer!) and add a couple of holes in the styrene and force the wire in with some epoxy adhesive. The “wedge ” of wire should give a bit more grip on the wire, and the holes in the styrene give more grip for the adhesive.
    I think the idea of Piano wire in a flexible curtain “wire” is a much better idea, much more sound (pardon the pun).
    If you are using styrene for your mechanical linkage, it must be a straight line push/pull. Then why do you need the styrene? Why not use just wire? You shouldn’t need more than 1/32 inch wire (~0.75 mm) to operate your turnout anyway.
    Cheers,
    BernardH

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Add a photo or image related to your comment (JPEG only)

SUBMIT YOUR QUESTION

scale model building stores
scale model building yard freight office
low relief yard railways
scale model building tall background

Download Your Free Catalog

wild west town model

Use Tiny Railroad Micro Controllers

scale model building house

Model Train Help Ebook

Model Railroading Blog Archive

Reader Poll

Sorry, there are no polls available at the moment.