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Re-Wiring Ballasted Track
Rudy models HO and asks:
“My system is all DC and my ballast is already in place. I realize only now, that I could use an 18 inch section of my layout where I could temporarily switch power, on and off, and let my 2nd engine rest, while continuing use of the first one. I already have a siding wired for this, but could use another. Is there any way to do this without ripping up my ballasted track ?”
5 Responses to Re-Wiring Ballasted Track
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Probably the easiest way is to use a Dremel tool with a thin cutoff wheel to cut some narrow gaps in the rails. Then drill a few small holes next to the outside of the rails and drop some feeder wires that you can connect to the toggle switch. To disguise the gaps in the rails, glue a thin piece of styrene in the gaps and trim and paint them. The wires soldered to the outside of the rails can be hidden by gluing a small “shrub” there, making sure it is low enough to not interfere with the train wheels.
You don’t need to cut both rails to form an isolating section. If it’s a dead-end siding that is controlled by an isolating turnout, the whole siding should be dead anyway when the turnout is set against the loco. If it’s a dead-end siding that’s controlled by a non-isolating turnout (as I have found with my Märklin turnouts intended for Z Gauge), you can get away with cutting one rail once for each isolating section you require and connecting the two ends with a wire leading from the rail on one side of the cut to a single-throw, single-pole switch and another wire leading from the switch to the rail on the other side of the cut. If it’s a loop, you’ll need one cut fewer than the number of locos you wish to store (if you’re using isolating turnouts) or one more cut than the number of locos if you’re using non-isolating turnouts. For every cut, you’ll need to solder two wires to the track & connect each pair to a single-throw, single-pole switch.
The guys above are on the right track. For “belts and braces” I’d cut both rails each end of the siding or loop, and solder droppers to both rails of all sections of rail in the isolated section. The holes either side for droppers need only be 2 or 3mm (really small) so disguising them should not be an issue. If the siding or loop is long enough you could park more than one loco by isolating it into two or more sections. Each section will need its own wires going to a toggle switch.
Thanks for your help on this…It’ll save me from ripping up some established scenery…
If your turnouts are the type that feed power only to the route chosen, that should be enough. My turnouts are hot when thrown that way. When thrown the other, that unconnected track is powerless. I have a loco sit on the siding dead. No headlights,sound. When I need it, just throw the turnout to that siding and that loco lights up and makes sounds and moves. (Obviously, this is DCC) This is because of point feed. And some turnouts and/or people – don’t like point feed. If your turnouts are not like that and are powered on both tracks, then the above advice is good.