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17 Responses to Best Way To Cut Flextrack
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I have a saw that has a metal backbone or stiffener that prevent the saw from curving. It seem to work on most track types though I only use it on brass. It probably works well on nickle silver, but I haven’t tried that. One thing about cutting flex is that you need to hold it in the final form that you intend before cutting. When bending the flex, one rail will move relative to the other and if cut while straight and then bent to shape, the rail ends may not line up.
Hi SteveB, I normally mark my flex track with a sharpie before cutting it, that way I know exactly where to cut regardless of any rail movement when cutting. Also I will typically use a rail cutting tool or a dremel to make the cut and then a file to smooth the rail end.
Cheers!
No really best way. I like my Dremel with a cut-off disc. I’ve got friends who swear by rail nippers. Also do as Steve says.
Paul Johnson – I agree. Tried several methods. The Dremel with a cut off blade works the best.
Dremel with cut off disk is the absolute best way. Nippers leave a pointed end which should be fiked down.
It depends on how you use the nippers. Cut the track using the rail nippers horizontally with the blade on the top of the rail. Very little filing is needed. I used to use a dermal but seems to be a mess with debris flying everywhere.
I use nippers and flat file to smooth the ends.
It works pretty good for me.
Regular junior hacksaw will work, but a fine razor saw is more precise.
From railroad model shops (or shows) (or online) , you can buy special track cutters. (e.g. Xuron or DCC Concepts)
There are also miniature modellers chop saws if you want something deluxe. (e.g. Proses track cutter)
The dremel and cutting disc solution is easiest for cutting track in situ as you lay it.
I have found that a xacto razer saw works well. You have to have the track in its final shape and tacked down to the board. Using the next track that you will attached to the to be cut end, lay it on top of the flex track, score top of both rails with the razer saw. Remove the track you used to mark the top of the rails and the finish the cuts. You may need to remove a tie or two to allow for the track couples. File the cut ends flat and than test fit the next track. You should be good to go!
In addition to above, I use a track gauge to hold the track while I cut it. I usually use rail nippers. And then I use a file to clean up the cut end so the rail joiner goes on smooth.
The quickest and IMHO the best way is with rail nippers and a few strokes with a needle file to allow easy mounting of the rail joiner. A lot of people use the nippers by cutting the two sides towards the middle. This provides a poor quality of cut. A cleaner cut is arrived at if you cut from the top and bottom (place one blade of the nippers on top of the rail and the other on the bottom).
the Dremel cuts well with the correct blade but is often an angled cut from top to bottom. The hacksaw cuts straight with a reinforced back but it is not as quick. Both these methods require some file work to clean up the end to accept a joiner.
Dremel can be more work. The disc can break. You can get small bits of metal shooting. Wear glasses. Best: Xuron rail cutters. Cut the way they describe and you get a square/flat cut. If you cut the other way, you get the ‘v’ shape at the end of the rail. If you get an uneven end, you must file it flat. But if you use the nippers correctly, and get a flat end, you need do no more work on it. Hope this helps.
When I use my Dremel I use a flexible extension that allows the cutting wheel to be perpendicular to the rail. Be careful not to jiggle the blade or you end up with a much wider gap than you need, it can happen in a split second. Sneezing while cutting can be a problem too.
I agree with Morgan. I would add that when cutting flex track for a curve do not make a parallel set of joints. Use the staggered ends to your advantage. If you stagger the joints (like on real railroads) by several tie/sleeper lengths you will maintain a better constant curvature with no kinks in the radii of the curved rails and have a smoother operation. This also applies to straight runs except when installing turnouts or crossings at grade.
I’m glad Timothy mentioned doing the staggered ends for flex track joins on curves.
For the layout I’m building in N scale, I am using flex track extensively & have done 2-3 inch offsets & it worked awesome.
An additional tip – when doing the offset cuts, leave the ties between the join (cut) points. You can then feed the movable track (inner radius) of the flex track you’re joining through the now vacated ties of the flex track you’re attaching it to. This helps keep the track in gauge at the curve’s joint.
I developed my own track cutter. This cutter used Dremel cut-off wheels, and is powered with a rechargeable 7.4v Lipo battery, and uses an open frame Pittman motor. It also has a wheel guard for safety and an LED lamp. This device enables you to cut the rails strait down with no angle.
I most often use electrician’s side-cutters and then file the underside. If rail is fixed down already, I sometimes use a Dremel and disk. I do find that the Dremel tends to cut vertically skew as I can’t hold it at 90 degrees to the rail because of the difference in height above the baseboard.