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Using Cheap Cork Roadbed
Many rail modelers use cork for their road bed because it is cuts and shapes easily, is lightweight, has a consistent thickness, provides good sound absorption, and is cheap to buy.
One option is to buy self-adhesive cork roadbed strips or squares. Another option is to buy Roll Cork, which is available at Walmart, Home Depot, Amazon, and most hardware stores. It typically comes in widths 3ft or 4ft by 3/16″ or 1/4″ thick, and the price varies from about $5/foot.
A sharp craft hobby knife can be used to cut straight edges across the width to slice off strips of cork to the width you want. So, for example, you could cut off one-piece 3/4″ wide which, depending on your scale, might equate roughly to the width of the ties. If you are methodical with your measuring and cutting, you can maximize the number of strips you can cut from the roll of cork, hence making your money go further. Carpenters glue (white or yellow) can be mixed with water and alcohol to glue the cork in place.
If the cork doesn’t extend past the ties, this can allow for a more natural slope for the ballast… if that is the look you want. Be aware that not having the cork separated in two pieces with one laid on each side of the centerline of the tracks can be a little more difficult to position perfectly centered. However, using your craft knife, you can go back and trim away any excess cork to make it flush with the ends of the ties.
You could, if you wanted to, slice the cork pieces to 3/8″ wide so you can tack one piece to each side the centerline of the tracks. Your track will be ready for painting and ballasting.
Obviously, the more strips you can cut from your cork roll, the cheaper the job becomes. You might average around 14 or even 16 strips (3/4-inch wide) from a 12-inch wide piece.
4 Responses to Using Cheap Cork Roadbed
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As long as you want this to be permanent, use glue as suggested. But if you want to put roadbed down and be able to pry it up – easily. Use caulk. I used DAP Alex/from HD 10oz less than $2. Spread very thin, just enough to see. I used clear, It goes down white, and dries to be virtually invisible. I even used the caulk to adhere the track. Again, a light coat won’t show between ties. When you need to get it up, a putty knife is all it takes. I used a 1″ to spread it down and a 3″ to pry it up. Very easy to do. be sure you use little, you don’t need it oozing out the sides. In fact, you don’t even need to cover the whole underside of the cork. This is just a suggestion.
Good tips Morgan!!!!
I have used cork sheet cut to size on my N scale layout and it works great just takes a little longer to cut and glue in place I also use metal strips as a weight to hold flat as the glue sets.
I’ve used rolled cork sheets as well. To reduce/eliminate the curl, I lightly misted the cork with water, covered with a light cotton cloth (also slightly damp) & then ironed them on a medium setting for about 5-10 seconds.
The sheets flatten out nicely and are easier to work with. The cloth may become a little discoloured from the cork so use an old pillowcase or similar.