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Derailing Around Curves
Winston models N-scale and asks:
“I just purchased a new GEN 4 Evo. I love the look and sound. However, has anyone had a problem with them derailing? It only derails on 11″ radius curves. (I don’t have a 9 3/4″ on my layout). It always jumps off a quarter of the way through the curve. Yes, the track is level and soldered. I even added some superelevation. That made no difference. My GEN 4 Evo still derails.”
8 Responses to Derailing Around Curves
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I would take a look at the undercarriage and see if there is something interfering with the trucks ability to rotate properly. If there is nothing obvious, remove the shell and see if the problem is something inside, like a wire or power pickup, getting in the way.
Of course, be sure to check the wheels to ensure they are actually in gauge and properly positioned in the side-brackets.
Most locos (particularly steam) have a manufacturer’s stated minimum radius curve.
What is the stated curve radius for this loco ?
To me 11” radius seems very sharp. Does the loco derail at the same point in the curve, if so I would check the joint to make sure the outside rails are correctly in line. A slight mis-alignment of the rail heads is enough for a wheel flange to hit and derail the loco.
t also is possible that the super elevation might be causing the drive wheel to be lifting every so slightly of a rail, thus breaking the current.
Also, get your phone in close and take a video of what is going on…..just get ready to catch the de-railing item!
If it derails on every 11 curve on your layout, and not just one particular one, then you need to first check what Frank says, about the manufacturer’s recommended minimum radius. If that is less than 11 inches, then you need to do what Dale says and look for something that prevents the truck from swiveling freely. Run the locomotive in both directions to see if it is just one truck or both. You should find something that you can file or cut away to allow it to turn freely. Good luck.
Check the back-to-back gauging of each of driving the wheels with a micrometer/vernier caliper. (I don’t know the exact measurement is for your scale, i.e 1:160/150/148 as I don’t know the model you refer to) However, you will be able to find out from your scale club or manufacturer and presumably should be the same for all 2mm gauge.
It is possible that one of the axle sets of driving wheels is ‘out’ slightly and when it encounters a curve it is effectively travelling in contradiction to the others – and derails. It is common amongst 2mm/1:148 which we use in the UK.
You say the track is soldered check to see if there is solder on the inside of the track this may be the cause of your derailment I only solder the outside of the track to avoid this problem