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Fascia Material

Anthony posted this question:

“The edge of my 4ftx8ft layout is untidy so I’ve decided to add a facia of some kind to smarten it up. What material would you recommend I use without breaking the bank?”

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5 Responses to Fascia Material

  • Hervey says:

    There are numerous materials that will fit the bill. Their availability to you will be determined where you reside. You are looking for a thin materiel that may have to bend with curves on the the outside of your layout. I suggest you visit a large hardware retailer that has a good selection of thin (1/4″ thick) sheet material. Just be aware you will find there are options that bend around a fairly sharp curve but there isn’t an option that will bend around a 90 degree corner. Once you see the options you can calculate how much material you will need and the subsequent cost to install the fascia you want.

  • Kenneth G Bean says:

    I am using 1/8” think hardboard sheet backed up with 1×2 lumber as needed. The bottom edge is 1” lower than the framing to conceal blue LED rope lights for night operations to prevent tripping in the aisles.

  • David Stokes says:

    Hardboard (Masonite) is a great choice, so is MDF. Both come in 3 and 4 millimetre thicknesses and are easy to cut. They can also be curved to quite tight radii, especially if sprayed with Windex or plain old water. They are also very cheap, an 8 x 4 sheet of 3mm MDF is only $19 at my local big box store.

    In the “olden days” chaps used 3 ply panelling for a sophisticated look, but that has gone out of fashion.

    • ROBERT SCHWORM says:

      I vote for masonite. 1/8 inch is very flexible. If you wet it, it will bend easily around tight radii.

      However, if you plan to mount anything thru this sheet, you only have 1/8 inch to work with.

      The recommend thickness is 1/4 inch. This still bends well, not as tight as the other, but again if you soak it, it will bend quite well.

      I also recommend that you temporarily scfew or nail it in place, after you measure the absolute top and bottom edges for overall lheight, and then with a sharpie, trace the inside against your scenery profile, up and over mountains, hills, valley, rivers, etc.

      Remove it and trim it with a jig saw or such. Then mount it.

      Facia usually follows the table’s terrain.

  • Pete Stoebling says:

    I used hardboard. Some modelers install with a 1/4″ reveal above the sub-roadbed. This is to keep arms and elbows off the layout as well as keep parts from rolling off the table. The height of the fascia is a personal choice and depends on what you want to hide. Bear in mind that in the future you will probably want to get under the table.

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