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Beginner Needs Help With Raising Track
Michael is new to model railroading and would like some help from more experienced people in the hobby. He asks:
“I was wondering if anyone has used any accessories for raising a model railway track? If so what have you used and where do I get them? What Iam trying to to is make my train set go from ground level and raise it higher so I have two levels. Is there some kind of accessory available to support the upper level of rail track.
I am realy new to all this and don’t know the correct names of the accessories required. Can someone help me out please?”
You can help Michael by adding your feedback using the green comments link below.
16 Responses to Beginner Needs Help With Raising Track
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Hi Michael,
As a newbee just about to start building my layout, I plan to run triple levels. I have searched the web using ” model train layouts ” as the search and have discovered lots of interesting sites. Some have detailed instructions on raising, bridge crossovers etc.
There are too many to list here, so I suggest doing a Google and have a at what’s on offer. May even change your mind on the type of layout you want.
Good luck
John
Hi Michael,
Three ideas.
1. Atlas makes a set of plastic ramps for making an over and under type of layout. Pretty simplistic.
2. Woodland Scenics makes a set of foam ramps that can make an adjustable grade and are probably a whole easier to scenic and maintain a raised level than the simple Atlas ramps.
3. Use a “cookie-cutter” style of bench work to start and maintain the level.
Additional sources of ideas:
The Walthers catalog
Model Railroader Magazine
Railroad Model Craftsman Magazine
Any of the bench work or railroad planning publications.
Sincerely, Dennis Finegan
Hi Michael,
I am just starting to build a multi-level layout. To find out how to do it, I did a google search using “model train layouts” There are hundred of sites with lots of information. This could be the way to find your answers.
John
Hi Michael we’re from NZ and dont always have a lot of resources so are resource-ful.
My brother raised his track in small increments as the trains ( particularly boggied steamies)would jump at joins or where the track levelled out .
He used thin hardboard/composite board a little wider than the track and as supports used 25mm dowel cut into lengths. using the board the whole length of the climb reduced the jumps as did using single lengths of flexitrack ( no joins)He also had a raised TYCO/AFX track ( the idea was the car transporter trains delivered the cars to “the Big Race”).
One big mistake was that he put a set of points close after the end of the down hill…. the trains decending at pace jumped track and took out the signal house !!
How to get up there depends on how high is up… plus a coule of other things. Few model engines will climb a slope steeper than a 4%grade. There is a simple formula for calculating grade. You divide height by length and that equals grade. Before you begin to elevate you have to calculate. That said, there are ready made starter and trestle sets. I’ve used the Woodland Scenics starter set for inclines and it was easy to install and gave me a smooth transition into the climb/decent. I prefer my benchwork supports to support my 4″ elevated track. I used up 8′ of track length to get up that high which worked out to a 4.16% grade but I run geared steam which strains a bit but gets up there eventually. If you are thinking of going up several feet, you’ll need a helix and that’s beyond my input.
Roy
Hi Michael, Atlas have a whole range of gear to help with what you want to do. The other way is to use 3mm Craftwood/MDF/Ply to make your ramps and overheads and support them with 5mm X 5mm wooden piers or dowell then landscape to give realism.
Michael there are many ways to do that one is to use a pier set atlas makes them or you can use subterrain foam products made by woodland scenics most hobbie shops carry these things. the other ways are alittle harder and pricy there is something called a helix which is if you are trying to get greater levels or depending on scale you are doing find out how much of a grade you can use and build it up yourself.First two way are easy and not so costly.Hope this helps you out? Pete
Not sure of your intent…if it’s to just have the train ascend and descend on one surface, or to have an entire “2nd level”, separate from the 1st level.
If it’s to ascend & descend, buy a set of piers. The come in different styles, and are designed to specific graduating heights.
If you just want a separate 2nd level, on a previous layout I bought a 4′ x 8′ piece of 1/2″ plywood and some 1″ diameter dowels. Lay your track in a figure 8 style on the plywood (temporarily hook up an engine to ensure proper radius is achieved). Trace the track, allowing extra room on each side for ballast, girder bridges, bushes/scenery, etc. Cut out & paint brown/tan/black or whatever undercolor to help blend when you begin to decorate.
Determine the height you want the 2nd level to be, insuring 1st level locos or buildings that the Fig. 8 will cross over will clear. Cut dowels to equal height. Paint or glue “brick/stone”-look decor paper to dowels. Screw dowels into Fig. 8 and into 1st level.
Finish per your preference, and you’re ready to go!
I assume you model in HO. If the grade will be visible try one of these:
http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/150-80
If it will be under scenery, Woodland Scenics had flexible foam to put under the track. This would imply that you would then be laying flextrack.
Hope this helps,
Matthew J. Moellendorf
Sturgeon Bay, Wisconsin
Woodland Scenics has a line of flexible styrofoam-like risers that are just right for what you want to do. Check them out at http://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/items.cfm/SubTerrainSystem
Good luck and have fun!
😉
Hi Michael, not really sure what your tring to do but if you just want to make a grade. I use small scraps of paneling under the track. I’m in n scale and use one every six inches. It makes a nice grade that they climb very easly.
You are in for a great ride. Dont give up and be patient. You can build or buy a HELIX, that takes you up as many levels as you want. Invest in an Atlas Layout book and it gives you a lot of ideas of grades and going up and down, cookie cutter layouts and the options are endless. I guess the Helix is the quickest and easiest way, you can build it from scratch or buy a kit. Since you are new decide what scale you are going to INVEST in and get a couple of layout books, well worth the cost now and will save you time and frustration later on. Tony
Hi Mike,
You weren’t too clear on what you want your model to do. Are you looking for devices to get the train up to another level, or are you looking for something to support it when it gets up there? in any case, there are many devices/techniques to address both. To get it up there, there are 1) columns of different heights that come in sets to create straight or curved inclines; and 2) the helix, which raises the track in a tight spiral design. I have used both, and they work well. Of importance with both of these, close attention must be paid to the angle of incline. In no case should it be more than 2 degrees. Hope this helps, lets talk more on this.
Hi Mike,
You weren’t too clear on what you want your model to do. Are you looking for devices to get the train up to another level, or are you looking for something to support it when it gets up there? in any case, there are many devices/techniques to address both. To get it up there, there are 1) columns of different heights that come in sets to create straight or curved inclines; and 2) the helix, which raises the track in a tight spiral design. I have used both, and they work well. Of importance with both of these, close attention must be paid to the angle of incline. In no case should it be more than 2 degrees. Hope this helps, lets talk more on this.
Hello Michael,
There are two accepted means of raising/lowering your layout between morethan one level i.e. meaning physical levels and not elevations on the same level.
The first is called a NOLIX, or non- Helix. This method uses the length of your layout to raise the elevation of your trains to the next level. USE of WS incline/decline foam is best suited here. The pro is that it does not require a helix (more here later). The cons are that it requires a significant amount of layout space to running it around as your between level height will probably be 12 inches at minimum. As an example using a 4% grade (which is too large) will require 24 feet of layout to pass to the next level. A preferred grade for most RR engines would be closer to 2% – 2.5% or 48 feet of layout space.
The second option would be what is known as a Helix. A Helix is basically a module where the train track runs arounf a circle of a specific diameter that raises at a deisned grade until it reaches the level you need. The pro here is that it doesa not require a large layout (as for a Nolix). The cons are that it does require one very large module as the diameter defines the minimum turning radius of your traines. For a single track at 5 feet that would yield a turning radius of approx. 29 -30inches. For an 18″ radius approximately a 3 foot radius would be required. If too small ypour trains will bind up, de-rail or jusdt plain stop. too large and you will have to resikgn your self to a much larger diameter and a huge module. The Helix grade is determined by the length of the train and cars, the pulling capability of the engine, how many engines (consist) necessary to pull the traing up say 12″ between levels. Note: long freight or passenger cars take a larger turning radius. The NMRA provides minamum radius for specific car lengths. A dual track Helix will allow a return path and/or support for multiple levels using curved turn-outs for the outer track.
An off-shoot of the Helix is the ecliptical Helix. Instead of turning in circles, you design an eliptical/race-track design. The race-track design allows the train to use a level track before reaching the next diameter incline. This allows for greater pull capability and more cars as you are only really pulling up the incline (half a circle) some of the cars and not all at once. The con here is that the Helix module becomes very large in length as well as the same diameter for the circular Helix. Still another option is to have the straight lengths of track also raise at the same or lesser grade as the circular Helix (sort of a Nolix Helix combination).
Two mfrs. of Helix products are:
http://www.easyhelix.com/index.html and http://www.ashlintrains.com/ . There is also some additional information, design formulas, and threads on construction available on various train forums.
Good luck,
Trent Mulkern
Mechanicsville, MD
Michael
I think you might be refering to a helix. Goto this web site to see what they look like — http://www.easyhelix.com/ ——
You can then build one from wood or buy a kit. Hope this helps.
Darryl