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Technical

Auto Reversing Question

Richards posts this question for readers:

“When using an HO Bachmann EZ Command Control System Digital Automatic Reverse Loop Module 44912 can standard track be used for a non loop run on DCC. Also any way to build in 4 stops with this or any other module?”

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Power To Railroad Yards

Anthony has asks readers this question:

“I want to put side yards on my O gauge set. How do I switch off power too track when train is not to be used?”

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Elevated Switches A Problem?

Daniel models O scale and asks readers:

“Have installed an elevated line using 111 Trestles. I want to add an additional loop using a pair of 022 switches. Has anyone done this? I expect supporting the switch motor would be tough. Any suggestions would be welcomed.”

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Trouble Understanding Curve Radius

Brian asks this question:

“Hi everybody. Hope someone will be able to help. I am 77 years old and disabled I decided that i should have a Hobby so started a train set OO scale,  my board is 11ft X 38 inches.  I am having trouble understanding Radius. I want to have three lines running around can I get away with this what does radius mean.  I  have laid track but feel the curves are to tight for some coaches to go round. Any advice would be Appreciated.”

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Electrical Lighting Question

Gary models HO and asks:

“If I connect a 12v light bulb (GOW or GOR) to a Railpower 1370 powerpack (with 18v of power), is that ok?  Too much voltage for that bulb?”

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Converting Engines To Battery Power For RF

David has this question for readers:

“I had to dismantle my DCC powered HO scale railroad when we moved and am considering RF when I rebuild.  Does anyone have any pro and/or con comments about running on RF?  I’m also told I have to convert my engines to battery power.”

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Problem Using LED Strip Lights in Passenger Cars

Cyril asks readers:

“This old dog put some modern LED strips in 2 passenger cars. I thought I was really clever, but they flicker so don’t look so good. My track is clean and can’t figure the cause. Any ideas? Thanks.”

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How to Wire Relays

Ted says his question relates to O or On30 and asks:

“I have been looking for a clear description of how to wire relays. The info I have found so far is not clear. I am looking to use relays to stop trains at stations – some sharing the same track. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.”

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Rewiring Tyco Chattanooga Tender

Lou asks readers:

“Does anyone out there have the correct info or know where to get a diagram to wire the HO Tyco Chattanooga Tender from the motor to the engine? I disconnected the wires and left the project sit for a month. I can not remember what went to what. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.”

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Confused With Track Wiring?

Bill operates N gauge and is confused with wiring requirements. He asks readers:

“I am just building a two mainline track with two side tracks going to separate buildings and terminating at each. There are two points wired, but but they seem to operate the track… in other words when a train passes one point, I have to switch the other point to keep the train moving. This is possibly simple to some? Who knows? Can you help please?”

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Replacing Cracked Driving Gears on Trucks of 3 Truck Shay Locomotive

Kevin (a regular contributor to this blog) finally gets to ask his own question:

“Hi, I live in New Zealand and model in HO scale, however I have a Bachmann  3 truck shay loco and the driving gears on the trucks have cracked, and as such do not drive the loco. I tried contacting the new Zealand agents for replacement steel gears, but they can only supply the plastic ones, and said they could not guarantee that the same thing would happen again. Does anyone know where I can get the steel ones from and approx cost thanks?”

If anyone can assist Kevin, please add a comment under this post.

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Hornby Ringfield 3/5 Pole Armatures

John models OO Gauge and asks readers:

“Help please. I have an old Class 110. 3 car multiple unit Hornby R369 with a 3pole motor which could perform better. So I saw a video on how to change to 5pole, but on my motor armature the new 5pole (Part No X9024) shaft is only 1.99 mm diameter and the old 3pole shaft is 2.37 mm diameter. I am informed that bushes are or were available to fit. Can any one help to find or know who makes them.”

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Suitability of Conrad Point Motors

David from New Zealand kindly sent in this article to share –

Description of Conrad point motors and their suitability for my N gauge layout

conrad point motorI have recently returned to railway modelling after more than 50 years and I spent quite a lot of time researching the current marketplace before buying any equipment.  Having decided on N gauge (N scale in USA) because of space limitations, I set up a very simple test bed with some sections of Peco track and some turnouts, both insul-frog and electro-frog.

One of my aims was to have ALL the turnouts motorised, and the other was to use electro-frogs except possibly where no electro-frog version of the turnout was available, e.g. Peco ST44/ST45 curved turnouts.  (I discarded these in the final layout as the radii were too small).  So the hunt was on for point motors which could also switch electro-frogs, and which were affordable in quantity.

There’s no getting away from the fact that the Peco point motor is designed for OO/HO.  It will fit under an N gauge turnout but the movement of N gauge turnout blades is only 3mm.  Therefore it is difficult to get accurate and reliable operation with N gauge, particularly when you add a microswitch unit to the motor.  A Seep point motor works on the same principle and with those, the built-in frog switch only just works because of the limited turnout-blade movement.

Testing the Conrad

During my investigations I came across a couple of short videos about the Conrad point motor, so I bought a couple of motors and tested them.  The basic design of the Conrad motor is to use a stiff wire directly up through the baseboard into the tie bar.  This works OK with OO/HO turnouts (and probably O gauge as well, but I have no experience there) but again, it doesn’t work too well with the short travel of N gauge turnouts.  However, one of the videos shows the use of a crank and I can confirm that this works brilliantly.  The crank reduces the motion of the Conrad slider bar from 7mm to 3mm, and it’s easy to adjust.  The Conrad motor includes a frog switch so you don’t have to buy any extra parts to operate electro-frog turnouts.  I have successfully installed 31 Conrad motors on my current layout and I’m very happy with them.

How do the Conrads work?  

They are based on a 12V DC motor turning a crown wheel, with a slide bar engaging the shaft of the crown wheel.  They are NOT slow-acting like a Tortoise or a Cobalt motor, but they are not nearly as “violent” in action as a solenoid.  Limit switches cut off the motor power at each end of the travel of the slide bar.  The electrical design allows operation on AC or DC.  In AC mode, the wiring is identical to that of a solenoid motor, but you can get away with a simple SPDT switch in place of a passing contact switch.

In DC mode, you use two power supplies (+12V & -12V), and here you get the greatest advantage – you only need ONE control wire plus the common return.  If you don’t have a dual DC power supply, you can always use a single 12v supply and a DPDT switch to reverse the voltage supplied to the motor, but there again, you would probably use the AC method instead.

Size:  The Conrad motor is 70mm long, 25mm wide (38mm over the mounting flanges), and 26mm deep.  The slide bar is 47mm long overall and moves about 7mm.  The shallow depth means that these motors are well suited to being used on “upper levels” where you need clearance for trains running underneath them.

conrad point motor sketch

The crank:  The above sketch shows what I mean by the crank.   I use the thicker of the two pieces of wire supplied with the motors.  This is 55mm long.  The hole in the baseboard serves as the pivot for the crank.  The photos below illustrate this in practice – on my test-bed.  You don’t need to remove the over-centre spring from the turnout.  I still make an elliptical hole under each tie bar just in case I want to use a solenoid motor at a later date.

conrad point motor track

Pricing and availability

The Conrad motor (part number 1396900) is available from Conrad UK (conrad-electronic.co.uk) at £9.99, including VAT but not including shipping.  Conrad UK will not ship internationally so the VAT does not come off.  From Conrad.com (Germany), they are available with a quantity discount, coming down to €6.93 when the VAT has been taken off for export.  The snag is that there is a €55 shipping charge, which looks horrendous.  However, if you buy a quantity, the pricing comes out roughly as follows (but don’t hold me to it as rates can vary):  10 cost roughly NZ$33 each, 20 cost roughly NZ$17 each.  The most you can order while staying below the NZ$400 limit is 27 or 28.

Thanks David. If you have an article you would like to share with others, please submit details to the Blog Moderator using this link http://www.model-train-layouts.net/Submit-An-Article.html

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Which Arduino Processor is Best for LED Building Lights?

Koot models HO and asks readers for advice:

“Which Arduino processor will work best for lighting buildings and LED’s on a layout? The UNO or the MEGA and what else will I need?

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How to Anchor a Drive Cog on a Flying Scotsman

John A asks readers:

“Can anyone tell me how I can anchor the nylon drive cog on my Flying Scotsman, as unlike the brass ones, the main shaft is not grooved and are held by 2 brass inserts. These slide when motor rotates and the engine remains stationary.”

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Fixing an 022 Switch Post Problem

Gary operates O scale and asks readers:

“I am in the process of tying power wiring to an 022 switch, as the center post pulled out from the frame. I know this post is a ground. I can’t find a way of getting it back down. It was probably riveted. I need a solution. Thanks”

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Which Turnouts are Best – Remote or Manual?

n scale remote turnoutReggie models N scale and wants readers advice on turnouts:

“I have started modeling a layout and I was interested on getting some feedback about turn outs, remote versus manual. Which type is the most preferred and why?”

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How To Fix Lighting Problems

Keith has a lighting question for readers:

I run a OO analogue system on my layout.I have 4 types of lights up:

1/ Tardis box

2/ Ice cream van

3/ Security light

4/ Building/street lights

Each of these are run separately but the building and street lights come on but after a short time they fade out and go off. If I leave them for a short while I can turn them back on but again will go off. Can any of your readers give me any advise to rectify this problem. All the power comes off a Hornby HM2000.

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