Technical
Everything on model trains, model railroads, model railways, locomotives, model train layouts, scenery, wiring, DCC and more. Enjoy the world's best hobby... model railroading!
Wiring Turnouts and Control Panel
Ray asks:
“I want to switch my HO scale turnouts with a single switch to also supply power the track and illuminate an LED on the control panel. I am using PECO motors on PECO track. I think that a continuous supply to PECO motors causes them to burn out. I have a number of double pole double throw switches but I am unsure how to wire it to prevent motor burnout. Any thoughts would be appreciated.”
DCC Crossovers and Return Loops
Christopher asks:
“I have modified my Peco Electrofrog turnouts by cutting the factory connection and soldering one side of the main to one side of turnout and added an AR1 for the return loop, for the crossover I have a dual frog juicer. Both of these still short out. What did I do wrong? How can I solve these problems?”
Model Power EMD – E7 Engine Schematics
Jim models in HO and posted this:
“I have an old ( however, never really used – sat on a shelf for 32 years ) Model Power EMD – E7 engine. where can one find schematics or parts teardown for one of these babies? I would like to get this one running again. It has a power connection problem.”
Wiring to Power Busses and Soldering Track
Damien posted this question:
“I am planning to solder my track in sections and am aware how a drop in voltage can cause issues. What size wire should I solder to the rails going back to the area power busses? I presume I should run the maximum wire size my DCC controller will allow to my power busses? Advice on wire size and methods would be good.”
Post your question using one of the ASK A QUESTION links under any post on this blog.
Switch Flexibility
Mark posted this question:
“It’s been 30+years and I’m getting back into ‘it’. I’m dealing with O gauge and want to build a multi-level, multi-train layout in a barbell design with one side of the bar smaller than the other and used only for the trains turning around. All of my hobby stores are closed because of the virus and I have a simple question about the regular lt/rt switches and/or wye switch. I want to return some of the trains down their same track after the loop to save space – can the switches be set to automatically change? Or do I have to buy additional hardware/sensors? I am thinking about FastTrack but haven’t bought anything yet.”
Mark hopefully your local hobby stores will reopen. Unfortunately a lot of small businesses both online and off line are finding survival a struggle at the moment. The big manufacturers and magazines will most likely make it through, but they too will no doubt be feeling the pinch. I want to stay positive, but I fear that the industry will come out the other side of the Covid 19 pandemic in a modified form. Time will tell.
Proper Placement and Uses of Train Signals
Devon G posted this question in the hope someone can assist:
“I want to put some signals on my track to make operations look more real, but I am a bit unsure where to place them so that they appear to serve a purpose rather than just look good. I’ve never bothered with signals before, stupid me, and I’m not even sure where they are supposed to go in relation to real life operations. I guess I am asking about the placement, purpose and uses of signals in real life operations. Sorry, I enjoy focusing on the visual aspects of the hobby building scenery and stuff, and my technical skills and appreciation of real railroad operations are not so great. It’s a weakness that has resulted in stupid mistakes I’ve already made on my layout, so I better get this one right. I know signals are important for train separation, and for various forward/reverse movements, but that’s about the extent of my knowledge. Can someone explain in simple words how various signals should be positioned and why? It would be a big help thx.”
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Switch Lighting Question
Jim models HO and asks:
“I am using #200 Atlas snap relays and am trying to figure out the specs needed for green and red LED’s and the required resistors for each. I understand it is best to connect the 2 LED’s and appropriate resistor in series? I would appreciate any advice as I have never done this before. Thanks!”
Add your comment or suggestions below.
MRC Power Booster Hook Up
Dale has this question for anyone with MRC Power Booster experience:
“I decided to get back into Model railroading and bought a MRC Prodigy Express2 system. After finding out what I should have, I went with larger system for my layout. I would like to buy the MRC power booster and have a question on the hook up. Do I have to split my main tracks up by districts or can I just use the booster to increase my available amps?”
Power and Rail Length Limitations
Bob asks:
“Greetings, I am looking to return to model railroading after many years. Due to space limitations indoors, I am looking to build outdoor layout. Cost factors have me looking at nickle track HO. If I read correctly the newer DCC presents options. I am looking to see how many feet or meters of track can be supplied per power source? Any other support information is gladly welcomed.”
Install a 5 Pole Motor
Rudy asks readers:
“ I have a much loved Fleischman, 4065 class 65018 steam engine. Is it possible to install a 5 pole motor into this engine? It’s still almost new, but I’ve noticed a big difference between it’s 3 pole, and the 5 pole motor in my other engine, since I like running “dead slow”… Is such a motor even available since it seems to be vertical in design?”
Add your comment or suggestion to help Rudy below.
NCE Power Cab Problem
Jason models HO and his question is:
“Hello all, I have been of the armchair variety for many years due to funds, usable space, life etc. Over the years I have collected a few locos and finally have the space to build and as of now I have only straight track installed (no turnouts with the possibility of shorts), one DCC factory installed loco and a few older RTR units. When I first hooked up the system and programmed the one loco, things were great, somewhere along the line of installing decoders in the others, it seems the top speed is no where near what it was when I only had the one running.
Additionally, the initial start up response has decreased on the factory unit. The only CV’s I changed were on the older units that I had to install the decoders hardwire. It also seems step 18 or 19 is full (after power loss) and the remaining speed steps up to 28 are unresponsive. Momentum is at 0, all units CV 5 maxed at 255, CV 6 127, CV2 varies a little from one to the other, initial loco unchanged and everything has been triple checked.
All locos run perfectly just slower and this is with only one on the track at a time so I’m not pulling too much juice. Additionally, I noticed that with the loco (any) completely shut off the amp meter still reads .01 to .03 fluctuating, not sure if this is normal or may be a symptom of a failed or partially failing system? Hoping some of you experts can help a tech dinosaur!”
Adding Sound and Lights to P & D Hobbies F Units
Kenneth has a question O scale, 2-rail enthusiast might be able to assist with:
“I have a number of P & D Hobbies F3 and F7 locomotives that I would like to upgrade with sound and lighting. Are there any easy drop in electronics for this?”
Walthers ML SD70 Engine Issues
HO enthusiast Matt sent in this question:
“I have a Walthers ML SD70 that runs almost perfect around my track. Just purchased 2 Scale Trains and 2 Athearn SD40-2’s. All 4 stutter or just don’t go at all. I made a small round test track that I could get them all to work after a few min with help nudging them along and would run fine. put them on my long track even with 2 power points in the middle and nothing again. “
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LED Lighting Rectifiers
Bill models G scale and sent in this question:
“I am trying to utilize a KBP 307 rectifier to convert 15v ac to dc for LED light strip purchased from a train show vendor. When connected to my transformer the ac side shorts out and won’t light the strip. The strip does light on dc just fine. Followed ac + – markings on rectifier ( the out side leads one on each side, two dc leads in the middle. What am I doing wrong”
Electronics Engineer Shares LED Tip
Bob Rimm kindly shared this ip:
“Thank for the news letter! As an electronics engineer I have been using Led’s since they first came on to the market. Some additional tricks is take two LED’s, add a 1N4148 diode in series with each on and wire them so that the anodes of Led and Diode go in one direction and the second set goes in the opposite direction. This will give you a brighter light and if you use a pulsing source such as the output of a 555 timer, you can adjust the frequency. This will allow one to increases or decreases the light output. Usually a frequency of approximately 1 Kilohertz will give you a usable amount of light.”
Bus Feed Wires
This question from a reader:
“ I have installed a single strand, heavier than 18 volt bus line as my feeder throughout my HO layout. Are there any advantages of disadvantages to doing this? I have as of yet not hooked the wiring up but only have slung this wire for the length of the layout.”
CDU with Terminal Blocks
Cliff sent this in to share:
Hi, my son and I recently designed a CDU with terminal blocks. See the following site for design files:
https://github.com/cbrake/hardware-projects/tree/master/model-train-cdu
Beginner Needs Help With HO Tyco 897 Train Set Transformer
Brian needs advice on his Tyco train set:
“I have just inherited a small HO Train set from a family friend. Just wondering where to go to get info on hooking up transformer and testing engines to see if they work?”
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