Technical
Everything on model trains, model railroads, model railways, locomotives, model train layouts, scenery, wiring, DCC and more. Enjoy the world's best hobby... model railroading!
Neville wrote:
“My trains are derailing on the switch frogs and wonder if it has something to do with the old cars I am running… the switch in question is fairly new. The curve into the switch rail is quite tight, and wonder if this could be compounding the problem? Advice please.”
Warren posted this question:
“I fitted a decoder to my HO Bachmann loco and the lights don’t work. Is it a voltage issue?”
Add your comments below.
Doug H writes:
“I have some magnet wire on a roll used for wiring coils and want to know if I could use it for other purposes?”
Adam models HO and asks:
“I have a tender that at times stops and spins wildly. I disconnected some wagons on the train and that helped a bit. Am wondering if it is a wheel alignment issue or maybe the cogs?”
Rudy asks:
“I’m interested to install a manual HO turntable. How does power get to the table, and then the track beyond”
Kirk who models O gauge asks:
“I read that you can lash 2 Lionel LionChief locomotives by orienting them in the same direction and using a single remote. I bought 2 BNSF Tier 4 and tried this. Worked well at first but after about 10 different times of running around my 60 ft loop, they started to get jerky. Then they just stopped. I separated them and found one engine would not move. It would light up and rev up but that’s it. Did I do something wrong?”
Warwick models N gauge and asks:
“So you know I have Kato # 4 points and a passing loop with sidings coming from the loop. Problem is; switching the track to maneuver my engine to the siding causes my other engine on the loop to moves too. Not sure how to isolate the siding? Help for others appreciated.”
Blain asks:
“Just wondering, would there be any issues using DC 16V AC track cleaners for DCC engines? Would I be best to split the track between DC and DCC?”
James models HO and posted this question:
“I put some interior lights in a passenger car with 2 wires linked to the left/right metal wheels of the car but nothing seems to work. Would I need to program them for my dcc unit? Advice wanted please.”
Craig W sent in this tip:
“With a DPDT switch you can alter the polarity manually when on a reverse loop. It can be done with the track before the reverse loop. You would need to double insulate each end of the rail loops.
DCC requires insulating each rail at both ends as mentioned previously and having an auto-reversing circuit mounted to feed the reverse loop. You won’t notice the engine slow down whereas with DC you would likely stop the engine, change polarity to the track, reverse power to that track to proceed. However, when using DCC the reversing circuit is the way to go for this.”
If you would like to comment on what Craig said, then post your thoughts below.
Howie models HO and writes:
“Hi. I just got back into the hobby. The LED street lights have the thinnest wire I have ever seen. How do I fasten them to longer wire to get power to them? So tiny! Help!”
Add your thoughts to assist Howie.
Ed writes:
“What Power source can be use to power an H.O. scale turntable? 130 degree.”
Nigel writes I am into DCC and my question is:
“Can anyone help me out? I do have all ‘Peco code 100 tracks {curves, straight & point} and I also have code 075-Double/Single Slip Crossings; And I want to know, with some of my old polling stock, will this be all right with Pecos code 075? Or will the deep wheel flange on the old stock cause derailments? They also do Electrofrog long crossings And Insulfrog crossing in code 075. I have one Insulfrog Crossing in code 100”
Just a reminder to all readers that you can have your question published by using one of the ASK A QUESTION links under each post.
Allan writes:
“I have a GP30 Diesel that is a few years old but has DCC onboard. I thought about converting it to DCC sound. Looking at the engine I’m not convinced adding a speaker is feasible without a complete disassemble and removal of parts from the frame halves? Has anyone attempted this before?”
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Mickey models HO and his question is:
“I am just having trouble understanding CVs. I have a passenger train with both working engines at either end. I would love some advice please? I have another 2 that start up but don’t move.”
Gary has an O scale question:
“I am using insulated track sections. What are the connections for crossing gate and lights? I hope you can offer advice.”
Keith has this electrical question:
“I am planning an HO DCC layout. It will have three (3) power districts with a control center and two (2) power boosters. I am planning a reverse loop joining to two (2) different power districts and thus different power boosters. Will this be a problem?”
Rudy asks:
“Hi, if I remove the rubber traction wheel rim on my new HO Piko V60 DB Diesel, will doing that give ‘that’ axel, full electric contact on both wheels, as it crosses the frog, and prevent that slight hesitation? I’ve noticed that if I flip the engine around, it will cross the frog smoothly because the traction tire ‘now’ crosses the frog leaving the other wheel contacting the exposed rail. It’s a small shunting engine, and I only pull 2 or 3 cars with it, so I may not need the traction tire anyway. Any thoughts on this?“