Tips & Resources
Everything on model trains, model railroads, model railways, locomotives, model train layouts, scenery, wiring, DCC and more. Enjoy the world's best hobby... model railroading!
Automobiles On Train Layout
Barry asks a question that was covered in a recent blog. Perhaps someone would like to add some comments to help Barry.
“Is there a means to move automobiles in an N Scale train track system by using electricity? I prefer to use (adapting with magnets or whatever) the inexpensive model cars.”
Barry have a look at this earier posting http://modeltrainsetshelp.blogspot.com/search?q=miniatur+wunderland
AC/DC Conversion
A reader has an AC/DC question for those in the know and asks:
“I have two s gauge diesel locomotives from American Models that are AC powered. I want to convert them to DC power, but don’t know where to start after I remove the electronic reverse unit from the wiring on these. One is a GP-35, and the other one is a SD-60. I plan on installing Digitrax DCC to run them more like the real train. Can someone assist please?”
Add your answer using the green Comments link below.
Fixing A Short Circuit
Jose is having electrical problems with his layout and says:
“I have a problem that I hope someone can help me with? I purchased a Aristo craft also fa1. It was on sale because it needed work. Well I love to fix things so I brought it. The problem I found out was electrical. It would short out the transformer.
So off came the cab and I check the motors. The motors attach to a circuit board, Part #22000-68. There are two connections, one for each motor. I set it on the energized track and it shorted.
I then removed one connection and the motor started. I reconnected the other motor and again a short. So I reversed the process. I then disconnected the other motor and it ran. Again I reconnected the two and again it shorted.
Well the next thing I did was to bypass the circuit board. I rewired according to the circuit board connections. Shorted again. I then rewired a basic circuit and both motors ran. I checked and rechecked the circuit board for shorts, rewired according to the circuit board again and again and still it shorts out.
Oh, I forgot to mention that I disconnected the power board from the switch board. I rewired the switch board to the power and motor wires according to the circuit board connections and pop goes the weasel. I am no electrician but I was a mechanic and no a little about basic wiring. I have spent so much time in the garage working late into the night that my wife called me a mad scientist!
Has anyone ever run across this before? Can someone tell me what I can do? I am lost as to what to do next.”
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Note to Jose and other readers: Please note – feedback and comments are only opinions usually based on personal experiences. It is your responsibility to seek proper professional advice regarding electrical safety matters. We will not be responsible for any accidents, deaths or injuries based on anything that might be said on this blog.
Tunnel Construction Made Quick And Easy
Geof has very kindly agreed to share this idea for tunnel construction with readers:
Picture #1: This is a shot of the materials you’ll need for this project. The stapler OR the glue can be used to attach the liner to the layout table. I prefer the stapler myself but if the tunnel is already in place, you may have to use the glue instead.
I have come up with a quick and easy method of construction that yields a great visual result for any scale with less effort. The technique I am going to describe is best when used on tunnels currently under construction although it can be used on existing tunnels but it is a little difficult to install.
To start, go to your local grocery or household discount store and purchase some heavy duty disposable cookie trays or sheet pans (aluminum foil in the roll form is too flimsy). A sheet pan that is 12″ x 18″ should yield about six linings in HO scale, 8 or more in N Scale and at least two in O gauge.
Next, get the INSIDE measurement of the portal and its sides. I use a flexible measuring tape for doing this. A single track N scale portal arch is about five inches, other scales or portal types would be longer. Whatever this measurement is add at LEAST another inch. This extra amount will act as ‘feet’ to mount the lining.
Using using a pair of utility scissors, cut the foil into strips as wide as the measurement you got from the step above. The lining length (or depth) is up to you. Seven inches is a good length for N scale. If the portal is on a high location on your layout where people can look down it, you may want to extend this for better effect.
Next, gently crumple the foil to give the illusion of blasted rock. The tighter you crumple it, the more creases will form so, again, it is up to you how much of this you want. Avoid crumpling the foil too much because it may be difficult to straighten it out for the next step.
Once you are happy with the crumple effect, flatten the foil out and then curl it into an arch that roughly matches the shape of the portal. Next, fold the outside edges of the lining (about 1/2 inch worth) outward to make ‘feet’ that run the length of the lining on both sides. When looked at from the front, it should look like the Greek letter omega ( like this -> Ω ). These feet are used to attach the foil lining to the layout’s surface so it won’t shift about.
Next, using a spray paint that is similar in color to you layout’s mountain (although it doesn’t have to be exact), spray the inside of the lining with a few coats of paint (I use gray primer).
Once the paint is dry, place the lining in position behind the portal itself, making sure it is pressing up against the inside back face of the portal. Run a few trains though, particularly those with long engines or passenger cars to make sure that there is enough clearance and nothing hits. Once you are satisfied with the positioning, either staple or glue the lining feet to your table top. Run a train through once again just to be sure the lining didn’t shift.
This method also works for curved track coming out of tunnels but installation is a bit different. Once you have the lining arch and feet formed, cut the arch in half the long way, that is along the lining roof. You should now have two pieces that look almost like the letter ” J “. Using the scissors, make 1/2” cuts along the lining feet every inch or so. This will allow you to bend the lining to roughly match the radius of the curve.
The more slits or cuts you make will make the lining easier to bend. You may have to use this slit method along the top edge of the lining as well to prevent buckling. Don’t be too concerned with how the top of the lining looks since in most cases it will be out of sight anyway.
I hope this tip, albeit a long one, comes in handy for some of you out there.
>>> On behalf of readers, thanks Geof for your contribution.
If others would like to send in their clever ideas or tips for publication please use the form at http://www.model-railroad-resources.com/my-layout.html
You can also comment on Geof’s idea by using the green Comments link below this posting. After clicking the link you need to register (if you haven’t yet done so). It is quick and easy (takes about 2 minutes), and then you can participate in future model train discussions.
Layout Voltages
Max has a question for those who know about voltages and asks:
“I’m building a z scale layout and need to know if Maklin locomotives and Micotrains or AZL locomotives should run on different voltage? If so, what voltage should I use, and what would happen if I use the wrong voltage?”
Add your comments by using the green Comments link below Max’s posting. After clicking the link you need to register (if you haven’t yet done so). It is quick and easy (takes about 2 minutes), and then you can participate in future model train discussions.
Tips For Using A Craft Knife Safely
A craft knife (with snap-off blades), a Stanley knife, or a scarpel is a very useful tool for anyone doing hobby work. These tools are great for giving a clean cut through cardboard, balsa wood, polystyrene etc. However be very careful, because they are also very efficient at cutting through flesh. That’s why surgeons use scarpels in operations!
I have found from experience it is best to make several cuts along the same line using light to medium pressure on the knife rather than pressing down hard on the knife to make one deep cut. The knife (or your grip) is more likely to slip under pressure and result in a serious cut to a finger (or damage to the object you are cutting).
So, try using several light cuts – it may take a bit longer, but you’ll be more likely to finish with the same number of fingers.
When cutting a straight line is also a good idea to use with a metal ruler rather than a less sturdy plastic ruler. Some metal rulers come with an integral finger guard.
Always keep your hand and fingers behind the direction you are cutting. It is a simple rule, but not applying the rule it is the reason many people get cut.
Also, apart from keeping the craft knife in a safe/secure place, make sure the blade is safely retracted after use.
Many in the hobby prefer using a Stanley knife as they are more sturdy than the snap-off blade types. However, they are a little more bulky so it depends on the type of project you are working on, or what you prefer using. Whatever you choose be careful!
Many in the hobby prefer using a Stanley knife as they are more sturdy than the snap-off blade types. However, they are a little more bulky so it depends on the type of project you are working on, or what you prefer using. Whatever you choose be careful!
Reader Shares His Tips
Jeremy kindly sent in these tips for readers:
Re non-shine to make things look more realistic – I use Acrylic artists paints as these are naturally matt, can be mixed (and inexpensive). In our Pound Stores (equivalent of US Dollar Stores) you can get a set of Acrylic paints (red, blue, green, black, white etc) for a pound ($1.60).
Re saw dust – besides fabric dye you can use wood dye and besides sawdust, wood flakes (hamster bedding) can be dyed and used as leaves.
Weighting Trains
Here’s a reader question some helpful enthusiast might like to assist with:
“Can Locos be wieghted so that they are firmer to the track and make better contact without damaging the grears or gearboxes? Also is there a salution to coat wheels to make better contact for DCC?”
Use the green Comments And Feedback link to submit your answer or comment for publication. The first step is to register if you haven’t already done so (it takes only 2 minutes) and then you can participate in future model train discussions.
Your Best Model Train Tips
We are all in this hobby together, so it is a good idea to help and encourage each other…especially new-comers who sometimes pull out of this wonderful hobby through frustration with lack of support or mentoring. This is a great shame, especially when there are so many well qualified and experienced model railroaders who would be happy to share ideas, but just don’t know how to go about it. Well… if you have the experience and are willing to help others, then this is your perfect opportunity to do so.
Submit your best Model Railroading Tip (s) at
http://www.model-railroad-resources.com/train-tips.html
Simply complete the form by entering your best model railroading tip(s) and I will publish the best suggestions on this Model Train Help blog site which is dedicated to helping others in the hobby. I don’t charge for people to access the site, so it is popular with many new-comers to model railroading.
Here is a sample tip received from a Richard T:
Building Tunnels Through Hills And Mountains
I made a big mistake recently when building a tunnel through a mountain and it caused me all kinds of problems. Please tell everyone as I would hate anyone to make the same mistake. I forgot to check that there was enough space for my biggest loco to run through the tunnel before I applied the paper mache to the chicken wire frame of the tunnel. You can probably guess what happened next. The loco was too high to get through the tunnel. I was so annoyed with myself as it was something I could have easily fixed and avoided hours of extra work and frustration. Please tell others!
Electrocure Conductive Paint On Model Railroad Frogs?
Michael was having problem with the frogs on his layout and has found that Electrocure conductive paint forms a conductive pathway which solved his problem. Here is what Michael has to share:
“I have a tip that might be handy for other model railroaders. When older trains go over plastic frogs on points they sometimes hesitate. I painted the tops of my frogs with car rear windscreen heater repair paint called ELECTROCURE – an electrical conductor paint and it cured mine. Best wishes.”
Airbrushing Tips From An Experienced Airbrusher
Rick has emailed his thoughts regarding the bonus section in my Model Train Help Ebook on airbrushing and I am sure he won’t mind sharing them with you. Rick makes a really good point on avoiding damage from spray pressure on lightweight cars. Here is what he has to say:
“I’m glad to see you placing this segment on airbrush work in the book. I’ve done and still do some custom paint work and an airbrush can be a true gift if used properly. It can also be a curse if you think you can pick it up and use it like a spray can or brush. Your explaining the angle and spraying before and past the item being painted is a major benefit to all airbrush use. Also the paint thinning and proper air presure are of high importance. This is because if you don’t have an n-scale locomotive body secured properly it can be all kinds of fun chasing it around the paint booth to put the paint on, or having to completely start over, because it fipped over and messed up your paint job. Just some thoughts from learning trials.”
Thanks Rick for your useful suggestions. Airbrushing is a lot of fun and can take some time to master, but the results can be very impressive and rewarding. Airbrushing techniques can be effective on cars, structures, scenery and even backdrops.
Climate Control And Computer Control On Layout
Mike from Toronto in Canada is hoping to hear from someone who can help him with two model railroading problems. Mike asks readers:
Climate Control Around Layout
“Please advise the best climate control conditions for a layout in terms of temp humidity and the impact of adverse conditions on rail corrosion; loco damage; decoder damage.”
Computer Control Layout
“Although I have a DCC (NCE) system I would still like to have a computer control layout eg for CTC and to control both mobile and stationary decoders. Which software system would your readers recommend? I am playing around with JMRI but I am concerned about the loss of functionality using the USB interface. Would you recommend the CTI technology or the RailRoad Company (?) for computer control?”
To help Mike you can add your feedback using the Comments & Feedback link below his posting.
Locomotive Wheels
Can some help this reader with his locomotive question:
“I have a locomotive that is about 25 year old. Only one set of wheels will work. Can one of your readers please tell me what too look for too repair it and make it work. Thanks “
Dedicated Model Railroaders Share Their Knowledge
If you have submitted an question to this Model Train Help blog and if one of our other readers has kindly answered it for you, then we would like to hear from you.
A lot of readers spend a lot of their time thinking about how to answer questions clearly for those who need help. It would be really good if you would not only thank them for their help and thoughtfulness, but I’m sure they would really like to hear if the solution worked and how you are progressing with your layout.
The people who answer these question are fellow model railroaders – they don’t get paid – they just do it out of a genuine desire to help others in need.
So, please participate in the discussions on this blog and, if you can, try and help and encourage others in the hobby.
To participate in discussion simply register using the green Comments link. I takes just 2 minutes to register and then you can join in on future discussions.
Derailments A Common Problem
Derailments are a common problem for model railroaders and many of the likely causes and solutions have been widely covered in the Model Train Help Ebook and on this blog over the past year or so. Here is the most recent question submitted on the subject:
“When my engines and certain cars come to a switch track (it doesn’t matter which one
right or left turnouts) they derail all the time. I am very frustrated and wondered if another person reading this could give me some advice please?”
To help this reader you can submit your thoughts using the green Comments & Feedback link below. We encourage readers to help each other and participate in this discussion.
Good Model Train Questions Get Good Answers
A reader who has kindly answered a couple of questions on this blog has made a very valid point. Here is his comment:
“Please remind those who are asking questions to be more precise. Many are to general and leave way for too many variables.”
I certainly agree with this comment. If you want good answers (or even any answer), you need to compose a good, well thought-out question. If the question is confusing, then it is likely the answer will be less than complete.
Newbie To Hobby Asks For Help
Milan is just getting started in model railroading and is hoping some of the “old Pro’s” will give him some help and encouragement. To help Milan add your feedback using the green comments link below his posting:
“I have a couple of questions if someome would please be kind enough to help with. I am new at trains and would love to get started with n scale. The train which is making me get started in the prr broadway limited.
My dilemma is this – I don’t like the g11 that pulled this part way but do like the e8 (tuscan red) engines. I would like to run two but cannot figure out on how one will run facing forward and the other back.
My plans are to start analog and then work my way into dcc. Is there a dummy of this engine? This would make it a little cheaper. Everything that I have seen and like is is from Kato. My hopes are to do the the right thing first time around even if I purchase one thing at a time.
Also, I would like to run the v11 configuration with the double track. Maybe somewhere down the road I can get my second train and run them with dcc. Any help from anyone would be greatly appreciated.”
Building A Portable Layout
Peter wants information on building a portable layout and asks readers:
“I belong to a local R.R. club. We want to make a portable layout but we are not sure how to make the frame work and the size of each section. Has anyone who has made a portable layout got any ideas for a layout to help us with getting started. Thank You.”
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