Mario asks readers:

"Do I need to be concerned about track types 83 or 100? I believe it refers to the height of the rail? Can 100's be mixed with 83's?"

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A reader asks for help from others in the hobby and asks:

“I am planning an HO layout which includes a track in which a loop doubles back on itself – that is at the loop connection, the right rail loops back and joins onto the left rail. I have both digital DCC and non-digital controlled locos. What special provisions do I need to ensure no polarity complications at the connections where the right rail meets the left rail – for instance – isolating switch frogs, polarity switching devices, etc. Also is the problem – if any – the same for both my DCC and non-DCC locos?”

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Ron has a question to test reader’s knowledge and asks:

“Can I connect two elcectric switch tracks together without placing a track in between and still have them work properly? I have space restrictions”

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Peter has a question for readers on Marklin M track and asks:

“I have received a Marklin M track starter set with extension kits E(5191) and T3 and I am wanting to expand track layout with other kits T2 and T1 especially the parts 5140L and 5140R. I know that C track has replaced M track but I would like to know where to find other M track along with Locos and freight cars? The sets where purchased in 1982, any feed back would be good thanks. “

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Charles wants help from any reader who knows about switches and asks:

“I have an inner (track A) and outer (track B) of O gauge track. They are connected by a pair of right handed switches connected to each other. With separate power to each track the object is to allow the train on the inner circle to switch to the outer circle. I am having trouble with how to pin the switches to get the train from track A to switch to track B.”

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Bill asks a question similar to others that have been asked on this blog (use the search box). Would someone like to answer this for Bill:

“I am about to build my new N scale railroad, can one of your readers advise me the gradiant ratio as i wish to climb into a mountain terrain?”

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Max is hoping someone with experience in the hobby will answer his question:

“I have two Z Marklin Diode-Equipped Tracks and I don’t know how to use them in a layout or what the are exactly used for. Can someone Explain them to me?”

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Pam is starting off in the hobby and asks readers for help:

“What is the best way to start laying out a track?”

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Ray would like advice from more experienced model railroaders and asks:

“I would like to know from the readers which track most HO people use – code 83 or code 100 and brass or steel? I have some bits of everything.”

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John wants to remove some PVA glue and asks readers:

“Hi, I hope someone can help me because I have just put dowm some ballast with PVA glue and some of the glue is now on the track. Is there any quick way of getting this stuff off.The trains do not like it to much!”

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John needs help ballasting and asks readers:

“Does someone know of a step by step method of ballasting Bachmann E-Z track? I’m looking for the process using 50% water & 50% yellow glue (I think that is the percentages)”

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Grace has a question for anyone who can advise her on loops and wyes:

“My table is 4’x 78″. I’d like a layout to be able to go both clockwise and counterclockwise using either 18″R or 15″R track or both. Do I use wyes, loops, or what? Any ideas welcome. I have both EZ track(Bachmann) and Atlas. At the moment it’s all on one level but I can be flexible if that’s what it takes.”

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Clarence has an interest in HO trains and asks readers:

“How much spacing should I have between tracks on curves? It probably varys depending on the radius. I intend to run passenger as well as freight.”

Dale has a question for experienced model railroaders and asks:

“Curve Radius – 15″ 18″ 22″ Is this radius measured from the inside of the curve; the center line of the curve; or, the outside of the curve? Does someone know?”

Ben has sent in these suggestions for giving ballast a realistic look:

Be careful when applying ballast if you want to avoid track damage or poor running of trains. To get a tidy finish take your time ballasting and revisit areas as the adhesive dries to ensure a good, clean finish.

You can then add general grime and oil marks (using an airbrush), over the ballast, to make it look like trains have used the track.

Oil stains would be deposited from standing locomotives and general grime would accumulate, in different amounts, in certain areas over time.

Use your airbrush lightly to add the appearance of track grime over most of the ballasted area. Then apply a heavier application on where more dirt may accumulate.

I usually blend several ballast colors together, to make it look authentic, rather than just a plain gray mix. Use a quality ballast, like Woodland Scenics, and be sure to choose the right grain size (fine ballast for N gauge, medium ballast for HO/OO and coarse ballast for O).

I then wait for the airbrushed grime to dry properly before I weather the rail faces with a rust paint. I then wait for the paint to thoroughly dry before cleaning.

Send in your best model train tip and have it publish. Go to http://www.model-railroad-resources.com/train-tips.html

Floyd has a question on track gradients and asks:

“Would one of the readers of this blog please tell me the maximum grade elevation in inches and feet. I would like to know how many inches rise per lineal foot foreward, say for 1%, 2%, 3%
etc, and what is the maximum practical grade.”

Ray has kindly sent in this model railroading tip to help others:

“One thing might be of some help to new people is fixing track creep and misalignment. I used alot of code 100 flex track to make the curves etc. I glued the track to the cork roadbed with construction glue. I have used this for subfloors to floor joist etc.and it is VERY strong. (I am a residential contractor). Then I learned how to divide the layout into control blocks for my DCC occupancy. When I cut both rails for a major block subdivision, even with the plastic connectors, the curves made the the tracks creep and the result was misalignment. My roadbed is on foam board so tacks don’t hold. I have recently found that “Loc-Tite” construction glue is not ‘flexible’ so should provide a solution. This has been such a problem that in moments of desperation I have considered starting a new layout. “

Ray, don’t give up your layout. I’m sure if “oc-tite doesn’t work, some other experienced model railroader will come to your aid and offer a suggestion or two.

If you would like to contribute to this train blog it is easy. Register (it takes 2 minutes) using the green Comments & Feedback link under this posting and then you can have your say on future blog discussions. Don’t just sit there reading what others have to say – get involved!

Richard is having a problem with track conductivity and wants to hear suggestions from others in the hobby. To have your say you can simply click on the green Comments & Feedback link below Richard’s posting. You then register if you haven’t already done so (it takes only 2 minutes) and then you can participate in future discussions on this site. Here is Richard’s model train question for you:

“I have a very basic problem with engines running smoothly, or at all, on the track. I am running mainly Hornby engines on a mix of Hornby and Peco track. I clean the track with a track cleaning block, and also the loco wheels as well as possible, but still very poor results. A new loco will run better for a short while. Any suggestions about how I can overcome this will be much appreciated.”