Brian wants to run two trains on 0 gauge 3 rail and asks readers:

"If I have two train sets, each with a controller can two train run on the same track at the same time but not in the same section? Do I need a special connection to be able to do this?"

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Ray wants advice from other in the hobby on the subject of securing track and asks:

“I have Kato HO track on my layout which is on plywood with a 30% directly on the plywood while 70% is on Styrofoam, plaster covered risers. I would like to secure at least key places from movement. I would rather not use track nails – Would your readers recommend drilling a small hole through the reinforced plastic and placing small screws into the plywood on some key curves in order to keep the firmness? If I needed to further secure the track on the inclines would they recommend small amounts of hot glue or do they have any other suggestion? I would like to avoid having the permanency of nails (easier to remove screws) and also avoid continuous glue around the entire track bed – just secure enough for good traction and prevent derailments from up/down movement.”

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A reader submitted this question for readers:

“I have a 6×10 model train layout and I have three train tracks. As I understand it, I need a barrier strip and jumper. My trains slow down at the far end of the train layout. If I need barrier strips and a jumper, then how would I hook them up?”

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Ted has an HO layout and wants help from model-train-help readers:

“On a curve, say 24 – 32 inch radius what is the general bank angle for the train on these curves? I am assuming the greater the radius the greater the angle, but I am thinking of a 1/16 th of an inch bank over 1 1/2 inches on my curves on the main lines. Would that be acceptable?”

Answer Ted’s question below.

Mike has an HO layout and wants to test readers knowledge by asking:

“What is the recommended distance between tracks on a straight and a curve?”

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George wants to hear from anyone with knowledge of Code 83, Code 70 and Code 100 track:

“After decades of good intentions but little time, I have finally jumped into the water and started my foray into HO model railroading. I am ready to start building a layout with Atlas track, intending to use Code 100 for the main track runs and Code 83 for sidings and/or branch lines. I plan to use flex track as much as possible. It seems that the few references I have seen reflect the use of Code 83 and Code 70. Is there some reason that I should avoid using the codes that I want to use?”

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Dave is soon to start his 'dream' model railroading project and asks readers:

"I am about to begin my 'dream' layout which will be on a grand scale (I hope). I am torn between PECO 100 or Finescale 75 guage track. I realise that fine scale is no doubt more realistic, but am worried about reliability as some of the track will be hard to access behind scenery. What do others think I should do?"

Comment below.

Jerry has track problems and wants help from readers:

“The track I installed has a kink in the track. What should I do to get the kink out? Is there a tool I can buy to take the this kink out?”

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David need help with his reversing loop and asks readers:

“I am looking for info sources for wiring a dogbone reversing loop – one way travel in the loop is 40 feet. This is two track, alternating current. My track is American S scale and American Models. My turnouts are American S scale, s helper, Toms, American Models. My rolling stock is all of the above plus old Flyer and a Lionel 4-8-8-4 Big Boy.”

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Kenneth asks:

“I am building a 22″ radius HO track alongside my 18″ radius HO track but cannot find on the Internet 22″ track items like turnouts (manual or remote) or even a 22″ rerailer section with provision for attaching the DC wires. DO these accessories exist and if so where can I get them?”

Answer this question below.

Ronald asks readers:

“Five years ago I have received a complete dismantled NN model train track from my late father. The locs (10) has not been worked for over 15 years. The rails are dirty and has been dismantled without cleaning etc. My main concern are the locs, do I have to dismantle them, are the EM and bearings still OK I do not know. What I can do?”

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Philip is hoping an experienced Model Railroader can help him and asks:

“How do I create an isolated fast track section? I can’t figure out how to block the power transmission through the middle track section. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.”

To help Philip, you can add your comments below.

Mike asks for help with:

“I have a layout that is about 40 feet long, I have the power source hooked up in two locations. I have cleaned the track several times. My problem is that the train will run a few feet and stop, if I push it it will again run maybe half way around the track. I have checked the power in the track at the location the engine stops with a tester and it shows the same power as the transformer, but the train will not run. I also have cleaned the wheels on the engines.”

If you are an experienced Model Railroader and would like to share your experience, please help by answering Mike’s question.

Gordon is having problems ballasting track and asks readers:

“I am putting the ballast down on my tracks. Every time I spray it with the wet water the ballast is thrown all over the place. I tried moving farther away from it but still the same thing happens. I use a sprayer I got online for this job. Can anyone tell me what I am doing wrong? I am new to modeling and would like my first layout to look the best it can. Thank you if you can help me.”

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Colin has sent in this article and photos for publication. Thanks Colin for sharing your thoughts with others in the model railroading community.

Several model train makers produce forms of ‘Rollers’ which allow a Locomotive to be operated although stationary, as in the same way a car can be tested on a Dynamometer. I recently obtained a set of 4 Bachman ‘EZ’ Rollers, which are designed to sit snugly on top of HO track as shown. (pic 1)

As there are locos with more than 4 driven axles and other parts such as trucks and bogies which need supporting, I designed the Testbed shown (pic 2) to maximise the use of the 4 rollers.



The 4 rollers sit between 2, 12 x 12 aluminium angle strips 90mm long facing inwards which are in turn clamped between 2 longer pieces of angle 300 mm long facing outwards. The long back strip is screwed firmly to the wooden base while the front strip has slotted screw holes to allow in/out movement. Two short pieces of track on wooden blocks also fit snugly between the long strips and can be slid in and out as required. The rollers and blocks are adjusted to suit the loco under test then the 2 screws are tightened lightly. (pic 3)



These rollers were meant for 2 rail  systems but can accommodate 3 rail locos as the material between the rollers is plastic. A small clip is used to get power to the centre pickup shoe. On 2 rail the outer strips conduct current into the rollers so the tightening screws must be insulated at one end.  I mainly use this for testing locos which I convert to DCC but it is useful for all sorts of maintenance, and particularly helpful in locating bent axles and other mechanical problems which are hard to diagnose when the loco is tearing around a loop out of reach and sight.

Alan has a technical question for experienced model railroaders and asks:

“I am using a DS64 and tortous turnouts and I am trying to get the JMRI panel pro to (SEE) the position of all my turnouts when I first turn the program (panel). Do I need to wire S1 or A1 on the DS64 to the DPDT on the tortous or do I need to toggle a switch on the DS64, the command station, or JMRI program or just wire the DS64 and the toertous together so when I turn on panel pro the turnout is not in and unknown state. How do you wire up exact and or simple feedback to a DS64 Thanks in advance to anyone who responds.”

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