Michael has a question for readers and asks:

“I have just purchased a box of Peco Code 75 track. My question is; are there any tips some one can let me have on laying the code 75 flex track, on corners.”

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Merl has a question for anyone who uses flex track:

“Now I know this is a pretty basic question, but in starting to work with flex track, I had problems connecting sections together. Do you have to remove ties to put on rail joiners? Is there some trick to working with this track?”

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John asks a question of readers:

I propose to use PECO stone ballast and wondered what proportions of glue mix PVA to washing up liquid and water I should use for ballasting track?

Andy has a question for readers about Marklin track:

“I’m planning a small layout using Marklin HO equipment. As you probably know, Marklin has two types of track: C track which has a built in roadbed and K track which is similar to other HO track. In my yard area the logical choice would be K track but I would then have to ballast it. I wondering if I might be better using C track–which looks like it fits together much more securely–and building up and ballasting the area between the tracks? Any comments would be appreciated.”

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Mike has put considerable thought into his questions, so please take the time to read what he has to say, and offer your suggestions:

“Hi everyone, I am at the stage of beinning to lay track on my 3′ x 8′ N scale layout. I plan on using Digitrax DCC for the controls. I have all the track /switches I need to start using code 80 PECO flextrack and electrofrog switches.

My questions are:

1. What is preferred/recommended sequence of laying the track? Lay down the switches first and gradually add track? Prewire the switches before completing the track lay down? Other considerations?

2. How do you wire for DCC at the electrfrog switches? I know one needs to ‘reverse’ the wiring at the frog to maintain power through the switch but does anyone have a detailed ‘How to Method’? I have seems several articles already on this subject but sometimes they are quite lengthy – I am a ‘get to the chase’ type of builder.

All recommendations are welcome and thanking you in advance.”

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Dick has a question for readers with any knowledge of N-scale Kato Unitrack and asks for advice:

“When switching consists into trains, I often have cars derail, seemingly easily to derail, as I push them through turnouts. This problem can be pushing against the points of the turnouts or with the points. My Kato Unitrack turnouts are all No. 6, and some cars just do not like staying on track with a push, but the assembled trains can be pulled through theses turnouts fairly consistently.

Some of the wheels with larger flanges, as with Micro-Trains cars, have the flanges riding up on the frogs or the points of a turnout. This inconsistency makes prototypical operations a bit difficult, and I’m willing to accept that I may not have flawless track work. It has been on the base for about three years now, so some joints are not quite flat across the rail joints. I am aware that there are causes and effects related to how well the wheels follow the tracks through all these situations. Left to my own devices, I will eventually re-work the tracks into flawless roadbed so train operations work as they should. What suggestions might readers offer. Appreciatively, Dick”

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Keith asks readers:

“I am about to model the layout Onion Pacific RR in Roberts book (the plans section). I am wanting to know if anyone can tell me what other turnouts can be used other than the Atlas snap switches as listed, ie. # 4,6, or 8. I am restricted to a table top of 10×5 and can’t extend. I would appreciate it if anyone out there can advise me as I am new to the hobby.”

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Nigel has a question that I suspect will know the answer to:

“Please is it possible for you tell me how to make a railway track? Also, what are the material I need to do so?

Readers may remember Subhash from India who makes everything from scratch for his layout. Perhaps Nigel might like to use the search box on this blog and enter the word Subhash to see what he has done.

Darrell is busy working on his N scale layout and is requesting advice from anyone with experience laying track:

“I finally got the major ‘Honey Do’ list of items done and now I have some time to work on my train. I built my board yesterday and am now ready to start laying track.

On top of the board I glued a 1″ thick piece of foam (I am going to cut it out where the lake will be so it will be recessed from the main level). Now I need to attach to cork road bed and then the track. I do NOT want to glue the cork down nor the track. I am not adding scenery at this time but need to flexibility to do it later.

I also need the flexibility to adjust the track as I go. I know there are a lot of idea out there. I would like to have as many opinions as I can get before I start.”

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Richard has a question for knowledgeable readers:

“I bought the Bachman nickel steel starter set and want to build an L (2x4x8) shaped layout with one of them having a multi-level mountain theme. Is it possible to do this with the Bachman track and risers, or do I have to go with flex track? Thank you to those who respond.”

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Terry has a question for readers on N gauge track geometry:

“I am finding it very difficult to get hold of the track geometry for N gauge in peco. As I am just starting, I am unable to plan anything, Until I know the diameters of of the different track circles etc. Is anybody able to help thank you?”

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Ned is hoping someone with experience in the hobby will help him and asks:

“I’m working on passenger car kits of 85′ streamliners. Unfortunately, my layout has 22 1/2 radius curves. I understand truck mounted couplers can lead to derailments. Is there a body mounted coupler that will do the trick? If the truck mounted coupler is my best bet, which one should I use? It’s for a Union Station kit.”

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Paul has a question for readers:

“Can someone tell me why the manufactures of the different tracks like Hornby, Lima, Triang do not use a similar code which would help get my layout together? How can I know what the radius is if the code on the track is different from one manufacturer to the other?”

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David would like guidance from those in the know about track radius and asks:

“Another newbie here. Can someone please tell me where the radius of a track curve is measured too; ie is the measurement to the inside rail, the middle of the track, or the outside rail. There seems to be a wide range of ideas on this subject, but no specific answer I can find.”

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George asks readers:

“I have two sets of o gauge – Lionel and Marx. Can I use the same set of three rail tube track for both if I run them separately?”

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Bill has a Bachmann HO trolley and wants help from anyone with experience in that area:

"I want to put in a 90 degree crossing on my layout so my trolley can cross my regular train track. The trolley is Bachmann using the auto reversing e-z track. Will this affect the working of the trolley?"

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Charles operates HO DCC and has a question for readers:

“I have a DCC system and I am trying to decide what is the best way to get power to my roundhouse tracks. Any suggestions from anyone will be appreciated.”

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Charles, perhaps you could use the Comments link below and add some more details to your question as it might help readers with trying to answer your question.