Trackage
Everything on model trains, model railroads, model railways, locomotives, model train layouts, scenery, wiring, DCC and more. Enjoy the world's best hobby... model railroading!
Using Flex Track
Henry has a question for readers about using HO flex track and asks:
“Can someone give me some directions in using flex track?”
Add your feedback and ideas below.
HO Track Clearances
Henry would like some advice from readers and asks:
In building a model railroad, how much should I allow for clearances:
(1) Between parallel tracks?
(2) Around the edge of the layout?
(3) The edge of the track and scenery (trees, buildings, depots)?
(4) The edge of the track and mountain edge?
Add your suggestions below.
Fixing Track Bed Down
Merlin asks readers:
“When laying track to the track bed what is the best way of fixing it? Pin it or glue it? If glue what type of glue – is white PVA OK?”
Readers can add suggestions below.
Auto Turnouts
Lenny has an N scale layout and asks readers:
“How do you mount an under the table auto switch machine and go through 4 inches of foam plus the ply wood and get it to work?”
Add your feedback below.
HO 25 Degree Crossing
Tony asks readers:
“I am having trouble with a Atlas 25 degree crossing. There appears to be two deadspots one one side of the crossing. Loco will pass these spots at high speed with momentum. Low speed results in a complete stop. Have replaced all joiners and track is secure sitting on foam underlay. Would appreciate your help please. This is the first layout I have bult in over 30 years. Thanks.”
Add your comments and suggestions below.
Cutting Track
Don asks readers:
“What kin”d of saw is best for cutting O model railroad track?”
Add your answer below.
0 Scale Insulated Track
Herb asks readers:
“What does a insulated track do? What does a isolated track do? What track do I use to operate a crossing gate?
Comment below.
Sneak Peek Inside The Model Train Club
My new online Model Train Club is proving really popular and the feedback from members is very encouraging.
Randy has kindly made a video with a quick inside look around the club. I’ve put it on the blog for you to watch. Click here to read more about the Model Train Club.
Brass Track
John asks readers:
"Recently I dusted off my HO trains and track, some of which are 50 years old. The track I have is Code 100 and in a brass type finish. I am seeing steel and silver nickel but no brass. Is there any brass track out there?"
Add your comments below.
HO Turnouts Derailments
Jerry needs advice from readers:
“I have Atlas #4 turnouts and a brass USRA 080 W/ tender. The tender becomes derailed when it travels through the turnout. What am I doing wrong?”
Comment below.
Automatic Reverse Loop For Trolley Car
Charles has a question for readers on setting up an automatic reverse loop:
“I have tried and tried to set up an automatic reverse loop for a trolley car set up using LGB equipment. Can someone please explain how to make the set up to make this work?”
Comment below.
Laying Track N Scale
Richard has a technical questions on track curves:
“On a 30″ radius curve, how close can parallel tracks be for modern passenger trains to pass each other without hitting, with the longest model cars?”
Add your thoughts below.
Test Track To Run Engines
Ron wants to know where he can buy, or how he can make, a test track to run engines:
“Has anyone any info on construction of a test track to run engines on in a stationary position? A company years ago (20) made one commercially but it burnt up two of my motors so I trashed it. I’ve seen setups in mr that have an ommeter and ampmeter. They looked homemade. Does anyone have or know where to get one?”
Readers can add their suggestions below.
Roadbed and Liquid Nails
Seth is building a layout and asks readers:
“I’m not using roadbed for my S layout and was wondering if using a Liquid Nails type adhesive is the best way to secure my American Flyer track to the foam board base – or if you had other suggestions.”
Comment below.
Code 83 or Code 100
David asks readers a question that has been answered before (see 303 Model Railroading Answers ebook).
“I am just getting started. I have purchased a lot off of e-bay. What is the best track to use. Code 100 or Code 83? And how can I run 2 trains on the same track?”
Continuity on Track
Ian has a G layout and has kindly sent in these tips:
Using track power, I use either Hillman clamps or the standard LGB sliding connectors, but after several years of use, and many experiments with different layouts, I had big problems with electrical continuity through the LGB connectors.
I solved this problem with the use of 2 stainless steel self tapping screws - 2.2x10 - and drilling either side of joint using 2mm drill bits. Drill through the connector and brass rail section at about 45 degrees, and drill from outside of track to avoid any interference with rolling stock wheel flanges.
TIP - invest in quality drill bits, as the cheapies don't last long.
It looks more realistic than the clamps, and can be spot touched with dark brown paint for effect, if necessary.
No more continuity problems ever again, in any weather conditions.
Glue Roadbed Rock
It is good to hear so many are returning to the hobby. I’m sure this blog will be a big help.
John ask:
“I am going back to model RRing after over 30 yrs and putting the rock down for the tracks has been time wasting. I thought about doing this. Take clear packing tape, sticky side up, then place the flex track in the center of the tape. Once the track is secure, then put the roadbed rock down on the tape. I have not tried it as it, due to moving, but has anyone else tried this? Glue would then not be necessary.”
John, there is some good advice on track ballasting in the model train help ebook.
Easements On Model Railroad
Stan has a question to test readers knowledge:
“When laying track curves what is meant by easements?”
I’m sure many of you will know the answer to that question, but you are welcome to add your comments and feedback below.
SUBMIT YOUR QUESTION
