Everything on model trains, model railroads, model railways, locomotives, model train layouts, scenery, wiring, DCC and more. Enjoy the world's best hobby... model railroading!
Track Joining A New Table Section
Peter asks readers:
“What is the best way to join track when you need a new section of table that is removable.”
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Radius of Track
Ken asks readers:
“What radius would I use if I had 3 tracks next to each other ( 10-12-14 inch ) and hopefully a 4-8-4 would work on at least 2 of the 3 tracks? I model N scale. Thank you.”
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Ground Cover From Florist Foam?
Gil sent in this question for readers:
“I have access to a large amount of Florist Foam (Green). How do you break this down to make a decent and cheap ground cover or if possible Trees and Shrubs?”
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Ideas For Cabling Wires (supplied by Ben)
Ben sent in this idea to share:
I have used several inexpensive techniques for keeping wiring together. The wires still need to be easily accessed if you need to add or remove a wire. This photo shows some of the methods I have used. I only add a plastic cable tie when I’m finished wiring the cable. If you are using metal screw eyes it is worth opening the neck slightly so you can remove, add, or simply move a wire.
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Wye Loops As Explained By Jack
Jack sent in this short article to share:
A wye track is shaped like the letter ‘Y’ where tracks merge into a single one and single tracks diverge into two tracks. The track is designed like this because it allows easy turning of locomotives and routes trains to another track without reversing. It can be part of a junction or used in place of a turntable.
A wye track is connected in isolated blocks. If continuous wiring was employed, a short circuit would occur. Therefore, the track is wired in different blocks where each block is electrically isolated from adjacent ones. A Digital Command Control (DCC) system achieves this.
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Corflute and Foam Board Useful (and cheap) Model Railroading Construction Materials
When you consider the cost of buying locomotives, construction products like foam board and corflute are incredibly cheap to buy. A huge sheet of corflute (like they use on real estate signs) cost less than $10 at a local DIY store and was large enough to construct several model buildings. What’s more, the material is very strong and very easy to work with.
This video shows how to use corflute board for constructing a model railroad building.
The plan in this video can be downloaded here.
Locomotive Conversion
Andy asks readers:
“Do anyone offer help in converting an HO DCC equipped locomotive to Ring Engineering’s Rail Pro LM module installation?”
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Roadbed and Bachmann Track
Warren seeks guidance for others in the hobby and asks:
“Does anyone make HO roadbed to fit Bachmann easy track? We have alot of eztrack which I want to use instead of purchasing new track. Is it necessary to use roadbed under the eztrack or can I elimanate this step. I did plan on using ballast just not sure about the roadbed. ”
Add your suggestions for Warren.
Reading Layouts
William asks readers:
“This may sound like a stupid question; however, I bet there are many modelers that are thinking the same thing. I look at a layout and I see dotted lines, straight lines, helix curves, etc. I never see a chart to help you determine which lines are which! If a line is going from one level to another often times you cannot see where it picks up. Doesn’t anyone have any suggestions or solutions?”
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Sound In a Boxcar
Ron asks readers:
“To put sound in an N scale boxcar I’m told I need a 50′ box with metal wells and a truck with a metal frame for the electrical pickup. Where might I find such a thing or what should I ask for?”
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Guidance For Absolute Beginner
Gerry asks readers for help:
“Where does an absolute beginner start when wanting to layout/build an oo gauge railway for his grandson, on either a 6×4 solid base or a 8×4 folding base? Should I go DC or DCC? Where can I get a good shunting type layout?”
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DCC Equipped Engines
Bobby asks readers:
“I have been looking at N Scale engines on line and noticed that they, for the most part, are DCC equipped. Can they be run on regular analog DC or do they need to be modified?”
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Adding Weight to Freight and Passenger Cars
Donald has an N scale question for readers:
“How do I break open the N scale freight and passenger cars to add weight and what is best to use for that extra weight, hopefully keeping them on the tracks?”
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New Engine Runs in Opposite Direction?
Jim wants to hear what other think:
“I recently bought a new Porter Hustler engine by Model Power on ebay. When I put it on the track it ran in the opposite direction of all my other engines. It is a problem on my layout. Any suggestions.”
Add you comments to help Jim.
FasTrack layout Ideas For 8ft x 4 ft Baseboard
Reader Rob asks:
“I am looking some FasTrack layout idea’s. I only have a 4×8 board at this time. So I am limited to space. So if anyone has ideas for layouts that I can use it will be greatly appreciated. I cannot get out that much due to a disability. I do have about 8 switches a 90 degree cross track and plenty of track. Thank you for your time and concern. ”
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Engine Repairs – How To Remove The Cover
John asks readers:
“How do I dismantle an HO engine to find out why it makes a grinding noise but does not move on the track. I cannot figure out how to remove the engine cover/body. Thanks in advance, John.
Add your answer to help John.
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Diesel Locomotive Maintenance
Club member Angelo sent in these tips to share:
Anything with moving parts can experience problems from time to time, and locomotives are no different. To ensure smooth reliable running they need some care and attention. Here are 4 common problems and common causes:
- Poor Performance: Inspect for dust, dirt, hair particles, or a build-up of crud.
- Tight or Worn: Check for any damaged or missing parts. Inspect the springs and carbon brushes.
- Smoking or Sparking: This could be an indication of too much grease and/or oil.
- Wheel Alignment: Even if the wheels are in gauge they could be misaligned front to back. The universals could be misaligned.
Here are some more things to check:
Watch and observe (keep a record) of how the engine operates in both directions and at different speeds. Listen carefully to the engine sound (noise). You might discover the loco runs better in one direction and no so well in the other direction. It may also be noisier in one direction than the other. Also, check for any slack around the thrust washers. The wheel treads should be clean.
The wheelsets might have a coating that won’t conduct electricity. One option is to put the wheelset into an expandable truck frame and then burnish the wheels using a brass brush attached to a Dremel motor tool. You might already use a rotary brass brush for cleaning solder from your nickel silver frogs so this is another use. You can also buy packs of 3 brass brushes (they look a bit like toothbrushes) from Discount Stores for about $5. A Dremel brush can be used when the engine is running while resting on its back. Those with DC could use a Kadee wire brush. Alcohol (70% isopropyl alcohol) is an effective cleaner.
If you notice the locomotive movement is somewhat “jerky”, it could be caused by a tight part or by poor electrical contact. A diesel engine might not have enough play in the drive train, or if it’s a steam engine it might have binding in the siderods.
Also inspect the wipers. On some locomotives you’ll need to check the seating between trucks and chassis. Electrical pickup will rely on the mechanical connection at this point. Another piece of maintenance is to polish around the “king pin” where the truck swivels, and on any contact surfaces.
Smoke could simply be a sign of too much grease/oil, or it the motor overheating. This could be result of parts being too tight, or be an indicator to other problems. To check if it’s the motor, firstly remove the couplings to run a test on the motor free of any connections. Listen out for any clicking from the drive train. Sometimes a tiny particle of flash can get on a gear. You might need a microscope to see it, but it can settle at the bottom of the valley between the teeth. Use a pick or small file to remove any flash. Another possible cause could be a tiny speck of metallic ballast that has been picked up. Commercial ballast should have no magnetic debris in it, but real dirt could have some iron in it.
If you notice the speed is inconsistent it could be caused by a faulty “u” joint or loose tubing if it was used for coupling to the driveshaft.
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