Everything on model trains, model railroads, model railways, locomotives, model train layouts, scenery, wiring, DCC and more. Enjoy the world's best hobby... model railroading!
Powering Turnouts
Charles wants to hear from anyone with knowledge of powering turnouts and asks:
“Most of my HO Atlas turnouts are controlled by manual throws. I have a short in both of my districts where these turnouts are and I believe the short is related to the turnouts. I have seen a number of diagrams for wiring DCC Friendly turnouts that switch power on the rail when the switch is thrown to but none with manual controlled turnouts. This is a major stumbling block since I have over two dozen manual turnouts (they’re all in easy reach).”
If you have some suggestions for Charles comment below.
Converting Horn Hook Couplers To Knuckle Couplers
Jeremy (an eight month member of the online model train club) sent in this piece of advice:
Many folk in the hobby don’t particularly like horn-hook couplers and often can’t wait to replace them with knuckle couplers. The view of many is that knuckle couplers are more realistic and they work really well with magnetic uncouplers.
Converting to knuckle couplers takes time and some effort and patience. If you are going to do this it is best to convert your rolling stock one at a time. Some mix them in consists until they are all eventually converted.
Regardless of what train couplers you use, they need to be mounted at the right height for them to work correctly.
If a coupler is sitting too high, then you can lower the coupler by inserting a shim between the bottom (of the car floor) and the coupler pocket. If, on the other hand, the coupler is too low, then you can add a washer (or two) between the truck and the car base.
You might have to replace the truck assembly (or the wheels), if the coupler is mounted on the truck, particularly so when a coupler is too low. My last tip is to buy a coupler height gauge – very handy!
Double Header Steam Trains With Smoke Units
Double heading (two locos pulling a train) was used to provide the power to pull heavy loads, climb gradients or meet a tight schedule. With steam trains, each engine was operated individually by its own crew, which took skill, cooperation and concentration to avoid wheel slipping which could stall a train or cause a derailment.
Double heading with diesels is different because all the locos working in multiple are controlled by the driver in the cab of the leading engine.
Double heading is always fun to watch especially on a model train layout, and especially with smoke unit equipped steam locos from yesteryear (enjoy the video!).
Double Header Steam Trains
Double heading (two locos pulling a train) was used to provide the power to pull heavy loads, climb gradients or meet a tight schedule. With steam trains, each engine was operated individually by its own crew, which took skill, cooperation and concentration to avoid wheel slipping which could stall a train or cause a derailment.
Double heading with diesels is different because all the locos working in multiple are controlled by the driver in the cab of the leading engine.
Double heading is always fun to watch especially on a model train layout, and especially with smoke unit equipped steam locos.
Unusual Storage Box For Train Parts
John is a great contributor to the hobby and likes to share his ideas to help others. Here is John’s latest suggestion:
We accumulate a lot of parts of various items as we build our layouts, and the smaller the part is, the more underfoot it is until it’s needed, then it seems to disappear as if by magic. One way around this is to put all small parts in a box, and the low-cost alternative is to use an empty MILKBONE Brand dog biscuits box, the 10-lb. Value Pack. Like most MILKBONE products, the box is very sturdily built, and measures 11-3/4 inches high, 10-1/2 inches across the top, and 8 inches deep, and can hold a lot of small parts such as track pieces, building air conditioners, terminal joiners, figures, model train wheels, weights for freight cars, detailing items, etc.
At very least, you’ll know where the part is if you put it in the box, though the exact part you absolutely need is probably near the bottom.
But a word of caution – make sure the box is empty before you use it for your small parts, as it contains very precious cargo. Just ask any dog!
If you have experience in the hobby and would like to help or guide others, submit your ideas using the Ask A Question link at the bottom of the page.
Poll Finds 1950 – 1960 A Popular Decade For Model Railroaders To Model
There were 1371 votes from 732 respondents in our recent poll which asked, Which decade do you model?
Respondents could select more than one era if required, hence the difference in numbers.
The numbers favored the timeline from 1940 to 1970 with 713 people registering a vote. 1950 to 1960 recorded the highest results (312 people model that decade).
Full details are as follows:
Pre 1900 = 37
1910 -1920 = 36
1920 -1930 = 65
1930 -1940 = 115
1940 -1950 = 224
1950 -1960 = 312
1960 – 1970 = 177
1970 -1980 = 110
1980 – 1990 = 77
1990 – 2000 = 71
2000 -2010 = 76
2010 – Present Day = 71
No particular era = 129
HO Proto 2000 GP9 Gear Box
Ted wants advice from others in the hobby and asks:
“I have a few PK2000’s and suffer gear problems like everybody. However a new problem is the front gear box on my GP9 has seazed. The flywheels turn, the rear drivers turn and the front drive shaft turns,but the front drivers gears are locked. I need to remove the motor and gear boxes, but can’t figure out how to do that. Any suggestions? Thanks.”
To assist Ted comment below.
Z Scale Couplers
Liter has a question for anyone with Z scale experience:
“My current Z scale engines and rolling stock all have Marklin type couplers. Unless you purchase Marklin equipment, these couplers seem to be unavailable from other suppliers. For example, Micro Trains and AZL seem to have there own types of couplers. My question is: How many kinds of couplers are there and how can I be sure the new pieces of non-Marklin equipment I might buy have compatible couplers?”
Comment below.
Converting A Diesel Engine From DC to DCC
Pete would like to hear what others in the hobby think about…
“Can an older HO diesel engine (Bachmann) be converted from dc to dcc? What is necessary to do this.”
Add your thoughts using the comment link below this posting.
Adding Motion To Figures and Scenery Elements
Christy is hoping for some advice from readers:
“I have seen a video of a model railroad where they used I think some sort of hobby motor to make a figure, and tow motor move, and other things move. Please tell me what and how to use add this element of motion to my G scale display. Please give ideas on where to order the parts for this also. Thanks for your help.”
Comment below
When Engines Short Out On Turnouts
Dick has a question for readers:
“I have DCC on my HO layout. The engines short out sometimes when traveling slow on the turnouts. How do I cure this? (I use #6 Shinohara turnouts).”
If you can assist Dick, add your comment below.
Loco’s – Cars per Sq. Ft Layout
A reader asks:
As most model railroaders have TOO many Locomotives and Cars. It would be interesting to know what the recommendation would be for the following -
How many locomotives per sq. ft of Layout? How many Cars per sq. ft. of HO Layout?
Submit your answer below this posting.
Unusual Scenery Ideas
If anyone else wants to share some creative scenery ideas, please submit details using the Ask A Question link below. Approved ideas will be published in approx 7 - 10 days.
Turning Trains Around – Turntables, Wyes and Reversing Loops
Richard has a question for others in the hobby:
“I know about HO turn tables, wyes and reversing loops at the end of a line. Are there any other ways to turn a train, or even just a locomotive around to head back the other way? I’m thinking mostly of passenger trains, with all the seats facing forward and I don’t want them to have to ride backward, or to manually reverse each car.”
Comment below.
Snagging Couplers
Owen sent in this tip to share:
A snagging train coupler can also cause derailments. Unpolished couplers (particularly on new cars), can catch and bring about derailments.
It pays to clean away any rough edges and if necessary adjust the couplers so they center properly. Some coupler brands and particularly older couplers are hopelessly uneven in heights. The key is to have then set at the same height where possible. And, it is a good idea to stick with one brand so you become familiar with how they perform. Mixing brands like Hornby and Bachmann can sometimes be problematic.
Solving Derailment Problems
Derek has sent in this tip to share:
Having the wrong track gauge is a common cause of derailments. Having a tight track gauge may cause the wheels to ride up and derail. However, having a wide track gauge can also result in derailments when the wheel flanges don’t span the track properly.
One can adjust gauge by the use of spikes to hold the track down in gauge. The rail can also be gently heated with a soldering iron, and moving the rail to its correct position before letting it cool down.
Another thing I do is check the points for sharpness as they switch. Some newer switch points can be somewhat blunt on the movable section where it strikes against the stock rails. If this happens it can lift, or jolt, the wheels and end up derailing the train. Take a small file and gently smooth the moveable part of the points to achieve a smoother transition. Always check the gauge in both positions.
Do you operate DCC on your layout?
In the last poll we asked “Do you operate DCC on your layout?”
Well, the results were very interesting….
1047 had their say…
Those who said YES I operate DCC = 538 (51%)
Those who said NO I don’t operate DCC = 406 (38%)
Those who replied – I don’t have a layout yet = 103 (9%)
The latest poll question about train eras was sent in by Richard – thanks Richard.
If you would like to suggest a poll question, simply use the “Ask a question” link at the bottom of this blog.
Cleaning Track, Rolling Stock, and Engines
Frank wants advice from experienced model railroaders on how to keep his track, cars and locos clean. If you can offer a suggestion, then please add your comment below:
“I clean my tracks, rolling stock and engines with goo gon. I was informed that this leaves an oily residue. Is this so? Tracks I clean with a clean white rag. I use white paper toweling socked with goo-gon layed over a section of track and roll my rollig stock over it. I then roll it over a dry paper towel until clean. Engines I do in the same manner except I use the power to spin the engine wheels. After a short period of time; less then a week the tracks are back to being dirty again. Another point: someone told me they use moleskin pads on a cheap track cleaning car and run it around the tracks. Again the tracks get dirty within a week or so. Any Suggestions.”
















