Everything on model trains, model railroads, model railways, locomotives, model train layouts, scenery, wiring, DCC and more. Enjoy the world's best hobby... model railroading!
Making A Toy Tunnel Look More Realistic
John has kindly sent in this article which he hopes will be helpful to others in the hobby.
A tunnel is always an important part of our layouts, as it serves multiple purposes. On bigger layouts, a tunnel breaks up the train as it “disappears” inside the mountain for a short time, while on smaller oval or switching layouts a tunnel can serve as an area that leads to a place outside the layout itself. The only problem is that, if you don’t build the tunnel yourself, an inexpensive type of tunnel can look just like it is – a toy that has the basic shape but does not look realistic. However, there is a way to remedy this problem with a few cans of model paint, and the following is one type of example.
I used a very inexpensive small, curved N-Scale foam tunnel which was factory painted green, brown, and white, and all-white inside. First of all, tunnels are dark places where only trains and adventurous people dare to go, so the entire inside was painted black. It would be a good idea to also paint the roadbed a dark color, because when you look inside, the only things that should be seen are the locomotive headlight and the reflection on the rails.
The next step would be to paint the entire outside a gray color or even a combination of grays. When that dries completely, make a brown wash (to simulate earth) and spray or paint it on so it flows between the ridges in the rocks. Then paint the tunnel portals a concrete color to make them stand out somewhat from the rocks. After this, let the whole tunnel dry for a day or two, and to make sure you like the way it looks before going on.
When all the paint is dry, dry-brush all the rocks (especially the rocks on top of the tunnel) to simulate the effects of nature and sunlight. Dry-brushing, if you haven’t done it before, takes some practice. I have all the manual dexterity of your average water buffalo, yet learned how to dry-brush by trying it out on articles that won’t be used on a layout. The important part is not to use too much white paint, just enough to make the rocks stand out. If you do put too much on, immediately wipe it off and try again.
The final steps are to paint a bit of black in the center of the tunnel portals to simulate engine smoke, and to put on lichen, ground cover, trees, etc. The example in the accompanying photo was left lichen-less because the tunnel will be used on a holiday layout, and will be covered in snow. But the primary consideration is to have the tunnel look exactly like the surrounding environment. As railfans know, a tunnel is built so trains can go through it rather than go all the way around a mountain, and as modelers we should try to recreate this fact.
Thanks John for your excellent contribution. It would be fantastic if other experienced model railroaders did the same.
Wiring The Track
Aidan has a question for experienced model railroaders and asks:
“I am starting to lay tracking and wire the layout. It’s not DCC, it is common return. The wiring plans say that the power should be fed at the toe of the points. I have one point directly behind another so I’m unsure of where it should be fed from. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.”
Add you answer below.
Reverse Loop Tortoise Switch Machine
RB asks readers:
“I would like to hear from anyone who has wired up and used the Sensa Trak ll IR sensors from TCH TECH and the tortoise switch machine for automatic turnout control.”
Add your comments here.
Life Like DL 109 Engine
Easy Cheap Good Looking Trees
Jack is also a member of the online model train club and sent in this tip:
“Most people buy the white or red grapes to snack on. They are a healthy snack. However they are more. Be careful pulling them from the stem. Dry the stems (usually 24 hrs is enough) put some school glue, hot glue or almost any adhesive and apply the ‘moss’ available in most any craft or mega stores for very few dollars. The trees look natural and no two are alike.”
There are hundreds more member tips inside the members area at the online Model Train Club.
Pipes and Culverts
Jamie, a keen member of the online model train club sent in this tip:
“I use those little tubes available for garden sprinkler systems as sewerage and drainage pipes. I cut them into short pipes lengths of 1″, 1 1/2″ or even up to 2″. I then paint them a steel or concrete color. For culverts, I bought a pack of those bendy drinking straws the kids love to use. Because they bend they work well as corrugated parts on some culverts. Obviously I paint those too.”
Confessions Of A Mobile Layout Builder
It is really handy to be able to easily move your layout (or sections of it) if required. Most people discover this when they move house. Moving the furniture is easy, but moving a layout can be problematic.

This informative manual describes how to build a mobile model train layout, so you don’t have to begin again when you move house. You can read how a modular train layout can save you money as well as taking up less space.
You’ll really enjoy this! It includes photos, tips and a layout plan included. Get it now for free when you join my online Model Train Club.
Do You Make Your Own Trees?
Here are the results of the last poll. A total of 445 people participated so that’s a good number to get a fair result.
When asked “Do you make the trees on your layout?” people answered:
Yes, I make them all (18%)
Yes, I make some (33%)
No, I buy them ready-made (26%)
I don’t have a layout yet (21%)
Size of Area Needed for Layout
William asks readers:
“I currently have a room that’s 14 x 20 feet that I can use for a RR layout. HO seems to small for me to work with since I have an ON-30 train and have problems even setting it on the track. I remember how easy it was to set my Lionel cars on my 0-27 when I was a kid so I think I’d like to go with an O gauge layout. I want to keep it a little bit realistic so I wouldn’t necessarily want another 0-27 unless the toy like look of them has changed that much over the last 50 years! I don’t want a huge layout, just something to play around and tinker with in my retirement. Do you think I could do this with O scale trains in the 14 X 20 area I spoke of?”
Add your comments below.
Lighting voltage
Dennis asks readers:
“I have an HO controller (Tech4 MRC260) with accessory output of 18.5v. I’m looking to buy lighting for the buildings and the Model Power MDP491, MDP492 lights are rated 12-16 volts. Do I need to step-down the output voltage so as not to blow the bulbs? If so where can I get something like that? Or do I need higher rated lighting?”
Add your answer below.
Good Quality Loco
John sent in an email stressing the importance of buying a good quality loco. He said “I’ve always bought Atlas products and find that they last. I have one Walthers engine, an RS-2 in N that runs pretty good, and I’ve never tried Intermountain, Kato, or Athearn. But Bachmann, Spectrum, Life-Like, Model Power, etc. Buy quality especially if you only run trains once in awhile, because it seems that the more they sit, the worse-running they get.”
Thanks John for your thoughts.
Making a Corn Field
Joe sent in this tip:
“An easy way to make a corn field is to soak corragated cardboard for about 5 minutes in warm water. Then peel off outer layer and allow the other layer with flat surface to dry. When dry, paint brown, and sprinkle ground brown cover on it. When dry you can ‘plant’ your corn stalks into the high parts, it looks great and makes perfect straight rows.”
Digitrax PR3 Problems
Ted is having computer and DCC problems and is hoping someone can offer some help:
“Hey fellow rail fans, I am upgrading some non DCC locomotives to DCC/Sound and after reading reports and watching videos I chose Digitrax as the media I want to use. However after receiving my PR3 I attempted to install it on two of my computers and it fails to be recognized. One operating system is XP and the other is Vista (The PR3 is not compatible to Windows 7). I installed the software anyway and of course it failed as well. The instructions state that the installation disc has a utility called USBDeview to be used to uninstall the software from the computer, but it does not exist on my disc. I have called Digitrax three times in the past 10 days and sent emails twice to seek help and got no response. Question is; does anyone have this PR3 system and have any idea what is wrong? I assume the particular PR3 I received is defective and will return it in a few days if I can’t get an answer! I am new to this computer style of model railroading and lack confidence, so I have to read everything several times and try and do it right! Maybe I made a mistake choosing Digitrax! I hope not! Thanks.
Add your suggestions to help Ted below.
QSI Quantum DCC Decoder
Bob has a question for knowledgeable readers:
“I have two HO Walthers(920-40991) Proto 2000 E7 Locomotive with QSI Quantum DCC Q1a Sound Decoder. All works except sound. Unplug sound and plug in new speaker and we get sound. Loco works for 5 second then off for 5 second then on again. Off and on again every 5 second. I replug in the original two speaker, loco runs great, but no sound. Any ideas will help.”
Comment below.
Cleaning Rails and Wheels
Alvaro has a question that has been answered many times before on this blog and in the online train club. Perhaps readers might like to add there answers here.
Alvaro asked: “I’m having problems with the cleaning of rails and railway wheels of locomotives. What are the products I can use?”
Add your answer below.
Make Corrugated Roofing
Patrick a keen member of my online model train club sent in this tip:
“Here’s a budget idea that turns out well. Take an ordinary tin can – you know the type with the fine corrugated ribs in the middle. Be careful doing this to avoid cutting yourself (have a medic handy!). You cut off both ends of the can and then you cut the metal from top to bottom. You will end up with a rectangular piece of metal which you need to flatten out without it buckling.
You don’t need to flatten it completely, just enough to use it for a pattern. Then get some aluminum kitchen foil and cut off a piece a little bit bigger than the size of metal you want in your finished project.
The next thing is to lay the foil over the ribs in the flattened metal can and using a thin stick you press the foil down into the grooves of the tin can. This is how I make authentic looking corrugated metal roofing, especially if you add some weathering to age it.”
How To Get The $39.95 Model Train Scenery And Layout Construction Ideas E-Book FREE!
In this e-book you’ll learn all about building a layout, including how to design a track plan to best use the space, building low relief and below track level scenery, and inexpensive industries to build. There are even two model train layout building tutorials taking you step by step through the construction of a small layout and a micro layout.
Now, I’m the first to admit, this informative e-book doesn’t cover absolutely everything. Fact is; it would take thousands of pages of cover every aspect of this exciting hobby, but I have condensed many of my best and most useful ideas, into 109 pages of practical help.
You can buy this e-book for $39.95 or get it FREE today at my Online Model Train Club
Locating Kinks In Track
John sent in these words of wisdom:
My tip is the “Odegard Squint,” named after famous model railroader Gordon Odegard (might be Odegaard). Just stand at one end of the layout and look at the track is at eye-level. Squint your eyes, and make sure all the track looks straight and there are no kinks or foreign objects on or near the track. Works every time!

CLICK HERE FOR DETAILS ON HOW TO DOWNLOAD THIS $39.95 E-Book For FREE!












