Everything on model trains, model railroads, model railways, locomotives, model train layouts, scenery, wiring, DCC and more. Enjoy the world's best hobby... model railroading!
Faulty Engine
John from the UK has a question for readers:
Could you please offer advice (or could somebody on the site if you do not feel able to), on a problem with electric multiple units in OO gauge. This is a purely electrical question, a question which is based on the mysteries of Kirchoff’s Law.
If you have a double headed loco hauled train I have found by experiment that one transformer/controller unit will satisfactorily convey the current draw of the two locomotives without overheating and tripping out through being overloaded. My layout is absolutely flat. There are no gradients anywhere. This is deliberate because I want to run trains of reasonable length.
I am building a number of UK Southern Railway electric multiple units. Each unit consists of a trailer car and a motor car with one motor bogie based around a Mashima 10/24 motor. I intend to run a six coach train.
On the face of it, two pairs only will be motored as this is commensurate with the double headed loco hauled train which we know imposes a safe level of current load. The third unit pair will have a dummy motor bogie i.e. it is in fact two trailer cars only. Thus each motor bogie is hauling three cars each only.
Here comes the question.
If the third unit is motored there are still only six coaches total. So that means each motor bogie will only draw two-thirds of the current as each will only now be powering two cars instead of three. Therefore if I am interpreting Kirchoff’s Law correctly, then the transformer/controller unit will still not overload.
What do you think? I would respect your opinion – especially as American freight trains have as many as five locos in multiple. Please don’t tell me that it can only be done using DCC!!!
If that is your opinion I will cry tears of blood!!
To comment on John’s question, or to offer a solution, please use the green Comments link below.
Digitrax System Problems
Ron is struggling with technology and asks DCC pros out there for help:
“I recently purchased a digitrax system and I can’t understand how to get the train to move. I cant believe I am asking this question.’I did read the quick start up, but one time it goes down the test track and I can’t control it other times. It sits there and doesn’t move. I’m not into this modern stuff I guess. I do like my switches and my blocks.”
To advise Ron please use the comments link below.
Code 83 or Code 100
David asks readers a question that has been answered before (see 303 Model Railroading Answers ebook).
“I am just getting started. I have purchased a lot off of e-bay. What is the best track to use. Code 100 or Code 83? And how can I run 2 trains on the same track?”
ATTENTION: Experienced Model Railroaders
We would like to hear from you if you think you might be interested in supplying content (words, photos and/or videos) for a new model train web site project. There will be payment for quality contributions from anyone experienced in one or more areas of the hobby. Contact here.
Roco Trains
Frank has a question for readers about Roco trains:
“Does anyone know what has happened to Roco? Are they still manufacturing? If so, are they still in Austria? How does one obtain their products?”
Comment below.
00 DCC Decoders
Graham has a DCC question for experienced model railroaders and asks:
“Being new to DCC, how do I hard wire a decoder into a tender-driven loco. The engine in question is Hornby Flying Scotsman.”
Comment below.
DCC Speed
Chris has a question for DCC experts and asks:
"This is my first layout I've now done and I jumped into DCC straight off. I'm glad I did it but I have just invested in a Kato Bullet train in analogue. It is blisteringly fast but once the Decoder board is inserted it slows down. I have set the acceleration and top speed and volts on the board to maximum but even this programming has not changed things. I tried removing the decoder chip from a Dapol loco and that increased it's top speed so it was not the decoder chip at fault. Does anyone know if this is to be expected and if not what I may have done wrong?"
Readers can offer suggestions below.
Experienced Model Railroaders Wanted To Assist On New Model Railroad Website Project
Are you an experienced model railroader who would be interested in writing content for a new model railroading project? You don’t need to be highly skilled at every aspect of the hobby (no one is), but you will need to be knowledgeable in some key areas.
You will also need to have reasonable writing skills and have the ability to communicate your thoughts clearly in simple to understand language (in other words… not so technical that only a few people will understand).
This won’t be a highly paid project, but there will be some payment involved.
If you think you have the skills and you might be interested in helping out, then click here for more information.
Hot Trains
A reader asks:
“I would like to build my Layout in my shed which is partly lined. With the summer months coming up it gets pretty warm in there. Money is the problem for me and is the reason why I havent completed the lining job on the shed. My question – how will my trains get on in the heat?”
Readers can comment and offer suggestions below.
Tunnel Liner for Plaster Protection
David has kindly sent in these tips to share with others in the hobby:
Just read your tunnel problem with not being big enough and thought I would add something to it.
When getting ready to plaster a tunnel use heavy duty aluminum foil to line your tunnel.
It won't allow any drying plaster debris or anything for that matter to fall on your track. At the tunnel portals area you can actually crunch the foil to resemble rock work inside the tunnel and spray paint it to look like rock work. Keeps your tunnel free from all debris and keeps track clean.
I have actually been using it instead of wire to form mtns. and hills and then using the plaster cloth on top of foil. You can spray paint foil first-add plaster cloth-then do your ground or rock work. Easy to use and very inexpensive. I have also crunched foil up to resemble rocks and used the foil as a rock mold and poured hydrocal in and made really large rock formations. It really makes great looking rock formations.
Take a sheet of foil about 12" in length and just crumble it up-then carefully spread it back out and you will see the wrinkles and the rock formations appear and then add your plaster cloth and try settle it into formations. Give it a try. Can be used over for molds. Spray with wet water befor pouring hydrocal into foil mold.
Readers might also like to look at these tunnel tips submitted by Geof http://modeltrainsetshelp.blogspot.com/search?q=tunnel
Continuity on Track
Ian has a G layout and has kindly sent in these tips:
Using track power, I use either Hillman clamps or the standard LGB sliding connectors, but after several years of use, and many experiments with different layouts, I had big problems with electrical continuity through the LGB connectors.
I solved this problem with the use of 2 stainless steel self tapping screws - 2.2x10 - and drilling either side of joint using 2mm drill bits. Drill through the connector and brass rail section at about 45 degrees, and drill from outside of track to avoid any interference with rolling stock wheel flanges.
TIP - invest in quality drill bits, as the cheapies don't last long.
It looks more realistic than the clamps, and can be spot touched with dark brown paint for effect, if necessary.
No more continuity problems ever again, in any weather conditions.
Mum, Dad And Sons Work As Team On Railroad Project
A reader from Australia (Robert P) has kindly sent in these photos and story of the Pendle Town Rising layout.
Our layout comprises of three "module" boxes. When we say module box, they are constructed on a 1.2 m x .6 m box with two common rail lines. The beauty of this is that you can connect to other people's module boxes and create a unique continuous railway. We recently displayed this concept at a local festival and the response we received was amazing.
A key point about our module boxes is that all of the points were hand made, and the scenery was completed by myself as well as my two sons Zac 11 and Damien 8.
We took the module concept a step further and created mini scenery modules which are interchangeable.
The above photo shows the module boxes in their entirety. The middle two tracks form a common rail lines which can be attached to other modules. For showing purposes, we built a loop behind the boxes meaning we could run our stock continuously. All of the points have been made by hand - no gigs used, all done by eye. These boxes were created by myself as well as my family with a large input from my sons Zac 11 and Damien 8. My wife is great at shopping at the $2.00 shop and has a knack for creative thinking. Who would have thought you could create wild long grass from wallpaper brushes. The man in the shop thought she was mad!
The buildings on the upper level are interchangeable and my boys are working on even more of them. We chose to do a zig-zag railway as it optimises the limitations in space when working in module format. From the rear, all of the points have been connected to slide switches and colour coded by section. This means that running the layout is virtually idiot proof.
Common sense prevails. My youngest son ran 3 trains continuously independently for hours on end. I think a few people got quite a shock when his little head popped up over the top. Both boys but particularly my eldest son contributed to a good percentage of the scenery, amazing where a child's imagination can take you.
Robert Anderson comments...
What an inspiration to everyone! I'm sure society wouldn't have half the problems if more families worked as a team like this. Congratulations and well done!!
More Coupler Problems
Carlos is also having a problem with couplers and asks:
“I am always having problems with the couplers. They are too high in between them or they uncouple when they pass or throw a switch. I use two kinds of couplers: kadee and the normal black mantua coupler or similar. Some some advise me please?”
Add your comments below.
Note: The new 303 Model Railroading Answers ebook has several excellent solutions to coupler problems.
Couplers
Jacks wants to hear reader’s opinions on couplers (brand not stated) and asks:
“How do the new type of HO coupler (what I think as new) work? The ones that look like a real train coupler. I find they don’t hold well. Is that bar at the bottom the issue?”
Comment below.
00 Gauge Wiring Diagram
Andrew asks readers:
“How do I wire a PM2 seep motor using press to make contact switches?”
Comment below.
Shinohara Switch Conversion
Al also has a question on DCC switches and asks readers:
“What is the best and easiest way to convert Shinohara switches to DCC friendly switches? I am told that I only need to gap the diverging tracks from the frog and that no special wiring or jumpers are required. Is this correct?”
Add your comment below.
Starting A DCC Setup
Frank wants to get started in DCC and wants advice from experienced DCC operators:
“I am running ho on a basic transformer. My layout is a double shelf around the wall design. 5 track yard; industries for switching; towns; and more industries. All sections of track are isolated, with loads of separate switches for each isolated track section; this is all from one control panel which I designed in. Where I have to stay in one spot to operate railroad. (and you know the problems that arise to the furthest spot from control panel) I would like to switch to DCC for realistic operations. I need DCC for dummies: Could anyone start me off on the ground floor (or is that Basement floor level). Also along with a basic dcc setup; the brand and cost is a factor.”
Add your comments below.
DCC Switches
Tom has a question for DCC buffs and asks:
“I currently have several new switches, code 83, being gathered for my new layout when I retire out west. I am starting to change over to DCC with new engines.What, if any, is the difference between a DC switch and a DCC switch ? None of my switches indicate they are DCC and I want to switch over to DCC power and engines.”
Add your comment below.
SUBMIT YOUR QUESTION
