Everything on model trains, model railroads, model railways, locomotives, model train layouts, scenery, wiring, DCC and more. Enjoy the world's best hobby... model railroading!
Garden Railroad Truck Stockists
Gary wants to hear from anyone who knows of a stockist of trucks:
“I have built cars that were in an article in Garden Railroad. Where can I get the trucks? My local dealer does not stock them.”
Comment below.
Transformer Output
Marvin has a question for anyone with knowledge of transformer output:
“I put up an elevated train in a room, approximately 12 by 15 (54 feet of track). The O train runs very fast by the station where the transformer is connected, but slows down as it gets to the other side of the room. I have a K-Line hobby transformer. It produces 0-20 volts AC. Is it too small to run a train on a track of this length? Or is there something else I can do?”
Comment below.
Multi-Level Layouts
Chicha wants feedback from readers on constructing multi-level layouts:
“What pitfalls should one avoid when building a multi-level HO shelf style layout?”
Comment below.
Switch Problems Code 83
Jerry has a question fopr blog readers and asks:
“Why are switches and switch motors such a problem? Most switches (code 83) are too delicate and under table switch motors are weak and don’t have the strength in the arm to throw the forks, and power supplies are almost non existent.”
Comment below.
Program A Decoder For DCC Commands
Chuck sent in some thoughts relating to an earlier posting on the blog and comments:
“There was a question as to ‘is a program track necessary’. The response to the question was that signals are sent to the loco via radio signal and an actual program track would not be necessary.
First of all someone needs to understand DCC. A throttle or ‘cab’ as some call it, is either tethered or some work infrared and or radio wave, but the cab sends the commands to the command microprocessor which translates your command into a digital signal that is made for one decoder address. This process is very specific and sent to the decoder hidden in the digital AC power that is supplied the the track by the booster. It is not sent to the decoder via radio.
Now as to the need to a program track. I say yes, you need a program track. Reasons are many but firstly, any programming done on a layout means all decoder on the track that is being used as a programming track will be programmed, if there is only one or more. Secondly, while different systems allow ‘on the fly’ programming where the program is sent to one specific decoder and all the other decoders on the track ignore the new program, because it is sent ‘decoder address specific’, it works well when everything is new and track rails are clean of all oil film, dust, oxidation, good rail joints, distance from booster, size of wire used in the layout, the number of rail-to-power connections, wheel to rail connection (not the best in the real world), need I go on.
In short if you want to program a decoder, why take the chance of the program that is sent through the rail to a decoder, requiring a good connection, with all the variables. It is so much simpler the have a programming track long enough to have the unit being programmed, either connected the your layout, but isolated, through a turn out or separate of the layout. I say take the time and expense of doing it right not trying to cut corners and cause problems and/or grief.
Sorry, I just get so worked up by what is a simple thing and some make it out to be a major project, costing lots of money. At the most, a turnout, two rail isolator joiners, a double pole – double throw micro switch, a couple pieces of track, some wiring and if you want to be fancy a bumper for less then 25 bucks.”
Feel free to comment on this posting and add your own thoughts on the subject. Use the comments link below.
Locomotives In A Bottle
We’ve all probably heard of ships in a bottle, but trains in a bottle???
Shawn has kindly sent in some info for publication about how he approaches the hobby.
Shawn builds locomotives in bottles. Just a few examples are EBT #15, The General,1829 Stephenson Rocket, Porter Pusher, French 2-10-2. He starts by picking a locomotive and finding as much info as he can about the size and history of the locomotive. He gets pictures and scales them to the bottle size. Shawn builds the locomotive outside the bottle and then inserts it in bottle a piece at a time starting with track then wheels and up. Shawn had some bottles hand blown as this show off the model best. His scaling is between 1/120 to 1/150 (close to N scale). He uses silicon sealer to hold track to the bottle. Shawn then use both super glue and wood glue.
Baseboard Construction With Helix
John has a question for readers on baseboard construction with a helix:
“If you are creating a gradient to take a track from normal baseboard level to a high level section and this gradient goes around a curve at one end of the layout (assuming oval form), then the track base is part of a HELIX!!!!
You cannot therefore use normal rigid baseboard material like 9mm plywood or chipboard.
What would other members suggest in this instance in order to twist the base material into the shape of a helix?”
Comment below.
Turnouts
Keith asks readers:
“I am about to model the layout Onion Pacific RR in Roberts book (the plans section). I am wanting to know if anyone can tell me what other turnouts can be used other than the Atlas snap switches as listed, ie. # 4,6, or 8. I am restricted to a table top of 10×5 and can’t extend. I would appreciate it if anyone out there can advise me as I am new to the hobby.”
Comment below.
Aristo Craft Battery Powered System
Mike want to hear reader’s comments in reply to his posting:
“I have a Fleischmann HO Layout with Lenz DCC and several years HO experience. I am just now beginning an outdoor G Scale layout for our grandchildren. I have 3 Aristo Craft Locos (a Rogers and 2 Switchers) pulling about 4 to 5 cars each on Aristo Craft track (combination brass, stainless and some alluminum)powered by the Aristo Engineer Power Pack with remote control(s). I have track for about two 15 by 35 foot ovals and it is very difficult just to keep up speed beyond a crawl. This even though I have run several extra direct connections. When the rails become tarnished over time I expect it will be impossible to even send the train around.
I believe that a rechargeable battery system rather than rail power would be a more reliable way to run outdoor trains. I expect the rechargeable batteries would be a bit expensive but performance is more important than being frustrated with no power. I would like to start out with a reliable system that is reliable and expandable rather than invest further in rail power. I would also like to control sound remotely.
Does anyone have experience using the Aristo Craft Battery Powered system?”
DCC Controller
Stuart asks readers.
“Which controller should I buy? I’m new to the hobby but I want dcc with sound. I am in my 60’s and am not as dextruss with my hands. My own thoughts is the Viessmann 5300. If I am spending this sort of money advise would be welcome.”
Comment below.
N Gauge Connection To High Level
John wants advice from readers and asks:
“I want to create a raised circuit which will be detachable from the lower level for storage and maintenance. Unfortunately my carpentry is not very good and I am concerned about miss-alignment of the rail connections linking the levels. I was wondering if there are any products on the market which make the track connections easy to take apart and reassemble so that the trains will not encounter problems passing over it through miss-alignment. As I am using Fleischmann N gauge ballasted track something from them would be preferable but I would consider any product that works.”
Comment below.
South African Railways 1960’s To 1990’s
Peter has kindly sent in this photo of his layout for publication.
I’ve just finished one section of my South African model scene. I am now busy with the second section. This photo shows how it stands today if you would like to show the readers. My layout is based on the South African Railways in the period 1960’s to 1990’s when diesels were taking over the majority of train operations, however steam had it’s fair share of runs still. The layout is based on a small railway junction in that period in a country town.
Comment below.
Polar Express Loco Stalls
Jimmy has a question that has been covered many times before (see earlier posts). Perhaps someone would like to offer some tips:
“I purchased a Polar Express loco 284 2 years ago. It was brand new from a hobby store. It no longer in works and I found it a problem from the beginning. It stalls when going over a turnoff at slow speed. I changed switches, but it did not matter. When going faster there is no problem. What am I doing wrong and what do I need to make it work?”
Comment Below
Terminals and Switches
Brian has a wiring question to challenge readers:
“I have points with 3 terminals and switches with 2 terminals. Can someone please explain to me how I should connect these and in Ladybird style if possible. Looking forward to your reply please.”
Comment below.
Deciding On HO or N
James is hoping for some pointers from readers and hopefully he will get the Model Train Help ebook too (as that would be a big help to him). Here is his question:
“I am trying to get into the SPORT with my grandsons. However, I need some numbers like the minimum radius and the speed for various super elevations of radius for the different gauges in ho and n. Can someone tell I am and old civil engineer the answers. Your help is much appreciated”
Comment below.
HO Locos With Problems
Over the years I have had emails from people with mechanical problems with locomotives of just about every brand – Rivarossi, Hornby, Accurail, Proto, Fleischmann, Kato, Ahearn, Lionel trains, Brio, Atlas, Aristo-Craft … you name it, I’ve heard the problems. I guess we all have our own brand preferences and we put locos to the test in different ways. That’s probably why we experience different problems and stick with the brands we know and like. Some prefer Bachmann, others prefer Atlas. However, it would be interesting to hear the different comments and get some feedback to Pauls comment and question below.
Paul has a question for readers regarding Bachmann quality:
“For some years I have mainly purchased Bachmann HO locos. The appearance is good and the price has been okay. However, after about 5 years or so, screws started to drop off and the motors started to hiccup. I continue to find ‘bits and pieces’ on the track and am doubting the Bachmann quality. I have no problem with older Rivarossi and Proto 2000 models and find that Bachmann Shays and ‘Old Timer” Baldwin 4-6-0’s are the poorest performers I have. Does anyone else share my problems?”
Which brands do you prefer using? Comment below.
Making Rails For Track
Nigel has a question that I suspect will know the answer to:
“Please is it possible for you tell me how to make a railway track? Also, what are the material I need to do so?
Readers may remember Subhash from India who makes everything from scratch for his layout. Perhaps Nigel might like to use the search box on this blog and enter the word Subhash to see what he has done.
The Start of The Ultimate Layout
Ben has kindly contributed this article for publication.
- Full Size (when completed): 21ft by 24ft
- Theme: Freelanced Coal to Synthetic-Oil model consisting of 4 scenes. Layout is expandable and can take other freight operations (such as lumber and aggregate) apart from coal and refined oil products – circa post 1990
- Construction Materials; the layout is built entirely of foam from the Woodland Scenics range with the table stands made from wood. A range of other manufactures are used for track, wiring, trains and structures
- Rail Road Company modelled; Union Pacific mainly although I do have Santa Fe rolling stock and locomotives as well
- DDC is planned to be used to control the layout
- Scale: HO Scale using Code 100 Atlas Rail and Turnouts (minimum radius 18″) (Code 83 is planned as experience builds for Scenes 2 onwards)
- Special Note: The layout is divided into four scenes with each scene then broken down into either 18″x36″ or 36″x36″ foam modules. The modules are designed to allow easy movement of the layout (I hope to exhibit the layout one day) as well easy building, operation and expansion as time and money allows. Each scene can be operated independently as well as together.
This next picture shows the current plan of my layout. Apologies for the quality. On the left of the plans is Scene One which I am currently building, with Scene Two (The Bridge Duplication and Mainline Industries) down at the bottom of the shot. Scene Three (The Coal Mine) can be seen at the centre of the plan with Scene Four (The Staging Yard Loop) located underneath that 1/3 18″ radius track.














